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I have stihl saw stone cutter i have rebuilt it with new cylinder and piston it will only run for short time when i pour petrol in plug hole it sound good when running

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  • Stihl Master
  • 1,169 Answers

This indicates that you have carburetor or intake setup problems. If the saw had sat a long time then most likely your going need clean and rebuild it. Please note that cleaning these with carburetor cleaner and especially the drip can destroy the carburetor. It is best to use an ultrasonic cleaner on these carburetors.

Also check intake gaskets placement as you may have installed either out place or backwards.

Posted on Nov 27, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: 455 Husqvarna chainsaw will not run

pull the muffler off and look for scoring on the piston,the 455 had a problem with running lean from factory and burned up a lot of pistons and cylinders

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

  • 211 Answers

SOURCE: Stihl MS 260 Pro wont run wide open or idle.

Hi brandon First change the sparkplug with the same heat range,Check and clean the gas filter with compressed air.Remove the carb and very carefully disassembly entirely.Check the gaskets and the diafragms.At the fuel pump side there is a fine screen(clean it).Check the needle,the spring and lever.Unlock the screws L and H(note how many turns are they).Put the corp of the carb in a special clean solution for 12 hours and then clean it with compressed air(something is clogged there).Put all back together and try to start the engine. regards savumihai71

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Poulan Wild Thing and Wood Shark Saws try to run, but stall down.

They could be sucking gas from the base gasket, head gasket or the bearings. Also, Check your flywheel very wheel and your armuter, if either are rusty then they need some sand paper to help create spark. There are rebuild kits and they are cheap. I always tell my customers to fix there older machines cause the new ones are **** and they leak everywhere and if anything brakes they are REALLY expensive to repair. You can get a rebuild kit whole machine for about 65 dollars

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • 205 Answers

SOURCE: Stihl chain saw won't achieve max rpm

Crank seals are leaking, causes lean or low vacuum for the carb to work properly

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

snowghost1
  • 784 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Stihl .029

I have owned and use Stihl saws for the past 18 years and I have seen both these problems many times. as for the chain 'getting tight' -- when you go to adjust the chain, make sure you are lifting up on the tip of the bar as you set the tightness -- you should be able to only pull the chain away from the bar about 1/8th of a inch. now, while tightening the bar bolts make sure you still are pulling up on the tip of the bar,, and make sure the bar bolts are nice and tight -- not to tight though, the bolts that Stihl uses are a very weak point on their saws and I have broke more than just one. but make sure after one is tight that you tighten the other one and then give the first nut one more 'little' nudge tighter. new chains do have a break in period and they have been known to tighten up and loosen as they are running,, just keep your eye on it for awhile and thighten or loosen as needed.
now I am kinda confused on your next problem -- you say ' winter mix bar oil ' -- using this oil should not have anything to do with it stalling out, ( enless you are mixing bar oil with your gas ?? ),, make sure you are using Stihl 2-stroke oil to mix with your gas at a ratio of 50:1,, ( you can buy small bottles that mix with 1 gallon or a bottle that will mix with 5 gallons -- use 'em ). one thing that I have had troubles with when my saw wants to stall out is the fuel filter inside the fuel tank in the wrong position and is sucking air. also I have had fuel lines that crack and/or split and they **** air.
now the winter bar oil -- please,, I have been running Stihl saws in temperatures ranging from minus -5 to 100 degrees above and I have always used the SAME bar oil year round and had NO problems. on the side of the saw there is a bar oil delivery speed screw and you can adjust it to flow more or less -- your manual should show you the exact location of this screw,, make sure you clean out any debris that might be blocking the weep hole for the oil delivery. you need to make this adjustment with the bar and chain off the saw and you will see the flow of the oil and you can adjust to a good flow.
I am a firm believer in buying and using Sthil chainsaws,, I will never buy anything else,, they are great and out last any other saw I have used or seen,, and your Farm Boss is a great saw and should give you many years of trouble free use.
one suggestion that I would make real quick is to ' change your saw mechanic ' -- find one that has been ' WORKING ' on chainsaws ( not just selling them ) for along time,, someone that has your interest at heart and is there to help you,, not just to take your money.
(((( I am still laughing at the ' Stihl Winter Mix bar oil :-) )))).
good luck with your saw,, and if you have anymore questions about this please feel free to write me back here and I will do my best to walk you through what it is that you need to know and do. again - I have been using and working on chainsaws for most of my life.
have a great night,

c...

Posted on Feb 10, 2011

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I have stihlsaw ts350super i have fitted new piston and cylinder it will run for a short time only when i pour petrol in plug hole when running sounds good


If the chainsaw engine stops after a few seconds, the carburetor might be clogged or have a restriction. If old fuel was left in the chainsaw for a long time some of the volatile ingredients may have evaporated, leaving a thicker, stickier product that is more like varnish. This sticky fuel can clog up the small jets and ports in the carburetor causing the engine to only run for a few seconds. Clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner. If that isn't effective, rebuild or replace the entire carburetor

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Stihl TS400 stone cutter not working (no compression) so replaced piston rings, new gasket kit and clean for carb new spark plug (good spark when engin turned over) cleaned all air filters, replaced all...


You did not indicate whether or not you have compression now that you have changed out the gaskets and piston rings. If not, it seems to me that the problem could be a) cracked head or block, b) bad valve(s) or even c) a warped head.

Sorry for the bad news (if I am right).

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Power cutters run in a very dusty enviroment, if concrete dust passes the filter and enters the cylinder it will very quicky remove the plating on the cylinder and wear the piston skirt, once into the bearings it will destroy them, if the rings are badly worn ( remove them from the piston and check the end gap by entering them into the cylinder, if the gap is excessive you have had dust entering the cylinder )

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Rebuilt a Stihl TS400 concrete saw, and now it wont cut, the engine dies down and has no power but revs up? Ive tried everything!


All these people are missing a basic thing: check the compression. If you did all thus work yourself, you may have reused the head gasket or not installed the new one correctly. It will run with no load, but once force in exerted, the pressure finds the leak and exploits it. There is a reason 2-cycle engines run at 130-160 psi normally.

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Start by removing the wire from the cut out switch to rule out a problem with the switch, if still no spark with a new plug it will be a replacement ignition unit.

Feb 12, 2012 | Saws

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Hi, My Stihl TS400 with 14"


Racing on a 2 cycle engine is usually a sign of a lean condition. It could be caused by a few different things including a bad crank seal or a torn intake manifold as some are made out of rubber. I would remove the cutter arm then pull the muffler to inspect the cylinder and piston. If they are scored it will be a costly repair.

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Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.

Jan 15, 2010 | Homelite Garden

1 Answer

Chain sew stihle has seized up can you help


Which model Stihl? If it indeed got so hot the engine seized you will almost certainly need a piston and cylinder. It will not be inexpensive.
Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)?
1. Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
2. Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
3. Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition.
Genuine Stihl parts are proprietary; you must purchase new parts through a Stihl dealer, I do not recommend used parts.
Bailey's offers some OEM Stihl parts. What they offer can be viewed here: http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=1666
HTH
Lou

Dec 01, 2009 | Stanley Garden

1 Answer

Hi,my stihl ts400 wont start,theres a spark at the plug,I havent flooded it and theres very little compression when I put my finger over the spark plug hole when the plug is removed,can you help?...


Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)?
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. A repair estimate by your local Stihl saw shop should be considered. HTH
Lou
A few drops of 2-cycle oil in the cylinder before attempting to start it may allow you to get it running. A P&C will most likely be required for a long term repair.

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