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I have a jvc Sp-smw505 surround sound but I only have the subwoofer. It appears to only work with that surround sound . it has a s-video Jack that they are using for a controller. This unit plugs in but for it to power up it seems to use the s-video to power it. I want to connect it to a different system. Is this possible?

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  • 15 Answers

You most likely can use it with another system however, you will need to search for a schematic for the s-video to find out what kind of power supply you would need to buy to power the sub-woofer and what pins you would use to connect the audio signal.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Our DVD/Receiver won't turn on and its not a power cord/pluggin in issue...

I had the same power problem with my th-c50. In fact, this is a common problem with this model Home Theater In a Box (HTIB). The issue truly is the fuse. All you have to do is take the cover off and replace the fuse. There are approximately 8 screws total to take the cover off and you can do it with a standard phillips screwdriver. Once the cover is off, the fuse you need to change is underneath and slightly to the right of the power input (if the box in on your lap with the front facing away from you). The stock fuse is a ceramic, white fuse and if you aren't familiar with fuses, it looks like a very small cylinder. The model number is T1AH250V. These numbers mean that it is a 1 amp, 250 volt ceramic fuse, 5 x 20 mm in size. The fuse is held together by four metal posts. Bend the posts back to take the fuse out. Go to Radio Shack or your local hardware store and get a replacement fuse with the specs above. The problem that I had is that none of my local hardware stores had a ceramic fuse with these specs, only glass. I bought the glass fuse anyway (T1AL250V) and it works beautifully. Be sure to buy a "slow blow" fuse instead of a "fast acting" as they are more durable. Insert the fuse into the slot, tighten the clamps, put the cover back on and your done! It doesn't take too long. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 11, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: JVC TH M505 Subwoofer not working

i need to find the wire that connects from the subwoofer it has like little spikes inside the medal part and the spikes broke off

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: KLH SUBWOOFER - RECEIVER-SURROUND SOUND -5 SPEAKER HOOK UP INSTRUCTIONS

Had the same problem with KLH E-10D Preamped Subwoofer. Afte brief research, I found the problem was with my Pioneer VSX-D509S reciever settings, not the subwoofer. If you have the same reciever, you can go to the pioneer website to download specific model owner's manuals.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Support/HomeEntertainment/ch.AV-Receivers.Archived?vgnextfmt=Archived

Select your Pioneer reciever model and it will give you an option to download the pdf manual. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: SP-PWM505 subwoofer does not stay on

Well i had exactly the same problem, my sub turned off right away when i turned the whole thing on. Well i opened the subwoofer and was trying to find out something unusual, i took out, i believe, internal amp, well, whatever that thing is, under the lid. Which one is screwed with 6 copper screws, so you unscrew those screws, lift that lid and that whole board comes out. On that board i find something like burn around one of the parts.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28004328@N04/3333561417/in/photostream/

you can see it in the pick, the part q2902, then i contacted JVC. At the beginning they said i need to take the whole thing to service center and so on. But later i made them to tell me what kind of part that is, so here :http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=KTC3199/GL/-T
bought soldering gun in home depot for $15, returned after i was done. And that is it, just have to replace it, but total cost only $12 ($5 part +$7 shipping)

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: Just got JVC SP-PWC50 subwoofer and 2 SP-THC60F

Your intended project sounds interesting. I like the idea of retasking older audio gear into modern multichannel sets. One good reason to use older equipment is that the specs, interfaces and interoperability are standardized so you can tell if/how a given amp and speaker will work together. I do it myself.

It looks to me like you have only part of an HTIB (Home Theater In a Box) system that uses a proprietary 8-pin connector and system cord that would come from the base unit/DVD/receiver (the 'brains', which you don't have). It doesn't appear to be designed for compatibility with other units, say, something that would bring in the 5.1 channel audio via either a digital (SPDIF) cable or via 5 separate RCA audio cables.

This subwoofer is self-powered and also provides amplification to up to 5 other speakers, two of which you have.

Their connection to the sub would be via standard speaker cables, likely the Red and White FRONT spring clips. The output terminals are rated up to 16 ohms so attaching a foreign speaker should not be a problem other than its having unpredictable frequency response.

Besides basic connection and signal processing, the missing DVD/Receiver would also decode and direct the 5.1 channels to the Sub and handle level matching of the channels. Without the 'brains' of the system you'll have to get creative to use the individual parts. The 8-pin input connection will be a big problem unless you're adept at getting inside the unit to figure out where things go before they come out at the speaker terminals. Then you'd have to do some rewiring.

UNDERSTAND THIS: Those connectors are OUTPUTS to speakers, not inputs from an Amplifier. If you hook that up wrong you better have a fire extinguisher handy. Kidding. But it could be bad.

The Front speakers are 3 ohm impedance, clearly designed to be used with the amps inside the Sub so I would be careful in trying to drive them with amps that aren't good at handling low impedances. Give it a try AFTER checking the low impedance tolerance of your amplifiers, but easy on the volume.

I would not expect all of this to be a worthwhile effort unless you just like the challenge. Even if you succeed in making a satisfactory electrical connection with your multichannel source as input there is no way to know if it will sound okay. With all-in-one systems the manufacturer may have matched the speakers up with special amplifiers that are designed for 3-ohm speakers and to shape the sound through active internal equalization in such a way as to produce flat response from non-flat-responding speakers - like Bose does, for example, but at least they tell you that's the case.

The stated spec is 200 watts (RMS) per channel at 3 ohms at 100Hz with 10% Total Harmonic Distortion, a very unusable spec. True and honest watts/channel specs look like, "XX CONTINUOUS watts per channel, all channels driven into 8 ohms (20 Hz - 20 kHz, +0.5 dB, -3 dB less than 0.5 percent THD)".

At only 27 lbs with a Power Consumption of only 160 Watts I'd say the Amps/Sub component of the package is a lightweight, literally and figuratively. Apples and oranges when compared to grown-up audio components. It might get loud but not cleanly. But that's just my opinion.

Here's the Owner's Manual for the entire kit...
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/257/257THC50.PDF

There's some discussion of the features, etc, here...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_257THC50/JVC-TH-C50.html?tp=195&tab=detailed_info

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

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JVC Surround Sound System HDCP error message


HDCP...high definition copyright protection.

This means that one of two things have happened;

1) The connection method you used for video from the player to your monitor does not support the decoding of media that is copyright protected such as the Blu-ray format, or;

2) The media you are using is not a valid original recording.

As of yet, the only video connection available that supports the HDCP decoded signal is HDMI. Component video is capable of even greater resolution than HDMI but manufacturers haven't made a way of implementing it's use for copyright protected digital signals. However not ALL Blu-ray or HD-DVD media are copyright protected, that is completely dependent on individual title in which case a component video connection will work.

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A connectivity check could provide the solution, notice any wrong wire connections on device or any other devices requiring interconnection. The woofer would perform properly when the connections that provide current for woofing are approapiate

important notes
1. Trace the connection from Recorder or sound output to the woofer device
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A) Amplified Subwoofer. (With 110volts A.C. cord attached to the sub)
The subwoofer electronics circuit needs repair or change.
You will find a compatible subwoofer for this type of subwoofer in audio appliance stores.

B)Not amplified Subwoofer (No 110volts A.C. cord attached to the sub)

Bring your sound system to a technician to have the soldering remaked to the devices bolted on the main heatsink.
And have the Subwoofer checked too.

This type of subwoofer can mostly be buy in kit with the satellites speakers.
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Search for ( 4 ohm or 6 ohm 8 ohm ) near the Sub outlet behind your system.

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You may have a break in the wire. You can find out by slowing moving your fingers down the wire until you notice sound coming from the subwoofer. You can fix it yourself by cutting about an inch away from the break both ways. Then cuttings some of the wire off, so the copperwire is exposed. then wrap the two copperwire ends together and seal it with elections tape. or Try replacing the 60 watt subwoofer wire.

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i need to find the wire that connects from the subwoofer it has like little spikes inside the medal part and the spikes broke off

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The problem on your sub is your speaker is faulty the end of the speaker coil is burnt so at a certain volume it`s makes a short .I hope that would solve your problem:)

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