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I require a circuit diagram

Rex040 has blown and I need to know the value of the component

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More information needed please. Is rex040 a part or a model number? What is the device?

Posted on Nov 25, 2014

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There are many causes of buzz, so it should be checked step by step :
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Hello I recompose my question. J would like to know the value of the ceramic condenser close to connector VAC of the circuit of Sr-16. On the circuit C5 opposite the condenser is written. it is round


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What is the value of rex040 on a peavey ul15 protection board


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I put the wrong ac adapter in and it blew the circuit board. i know which part is blown because it is visible. i just dont know what it is called and searching for the answer was getting me nowhere. it is...


Those are NOT normal component identification nomenclature. Common ones might be C1, R1, L1, U1, VR1, UA1 J1,P1... you get the idea... they start with a letter or two...

MANY components are black... HOWEVER yours is likely an electrolytic capacitor if it is in a round can with a plastic sleeve on the outside... It would have TWO leads only.

NOW THE BAD NEWS: While these caps blow the top off or fry, it is likely that the next level of part is also damaged... The MAY have a part that is a 78L05 or a similar number three lead regulator. It is UNLIKELY what you did, if it did blow a cap, would make the unit inoperative... It might have some hum, but should still work.

If you find that the circuit trace from the power input goes to a device with three leads after visiting a cap that blew, and the device might be labeled VRx or UAx where x is a number, that part is likely blown as well. These parts often do not show damage as clearly as the caps and resistors.

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It is likely one of the amps have blown as well as the power supply. The pwoer supply wipes out about $30 of components when it goes. If the fuse had been replaced after initial failure this results in more damage. For the power supply, typically the two IGBT's are wiped out and the four transistors driving them as well as the regulator chip and one or more of the gate speedup diodes which are surface mounted. Sometimes the surge limit resistors which are ceramic pacakged are blown. The hardest part is removing the heatsinks with the IGBT's on them. You DO need a desoldering station to work on this.
Usually you will find damage to the rearmost amp in the amplifier module. An arc beween layers of the multilayer circuit board causes inital failure. Three MOSFET transistors are blown and a Zener plus the board is charred and this cancer has to be ground away and re-insulated and circuit traces replaced by jumpers. Sometime the .03 ohm metering resistor on the bottom is fried... when that happens, two small surface mounted transistors are blown as well. All in all $50 of components are damaged typically.

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If the supply failed I can tell you which parts to replace... and if it failed there may be a failure in the power amp that caused it. You can contact be directely at fredy2 @ aol.com... put Behringer in the subject.

The supply when it fails takes out eleven components including two expensive IGBT transistors. If the rearmost amp fried, add at least four more components and a lot of work carving out burned board and wiring around the blown circuit traces.

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My TP100 snare pad is very glitchy. Often when I hit it, it makes no sound at all, or it misses hits. I suspect something is wrong with the small sensitivity dial (not the big red dial), because the...


The dial could have a desoldered pin or oxydized slider contacts. Try to resolder the pins, but if that doesn't solve it then you would need to disassemble and clean the internal slide contacts on the dial which can be a bit difficult, so the alternative is to replace the dial if you can find a spare one.

To bypass the dial (with fixed resistances) you need to know the resistance at each side of the dial when it is in the position that suits your needs (connect the snare to a working input, set the sensitivity as needed, mark the position of the dial).

The resistance can be measured with an ohm meter.
To be sure that the measuring will be accurate, it is ok to remove the dial from the circuit board (adjacent components may affect the measured value).
You should do the measuring on a dial that is good.

After you've removed the dial, set it to the position that you marked previously.

Measure the resistance between left and middle pin of the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which you need to connect to the left and middle hole on the circuit board.
Now measure the resistance between middle and right pin on the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which will be connected to the middle and right hole on the circuit board.

Now you need to get resistors which have the values that you've measured and solder them in place of a bad dial.

It is likely that the measured value will differ from the standard fixed resistor values. To achieve the exact measured value, you can connect two or more fixed resistors in series, just make sure that the added value of the fixed resistors for each side is the same as the measured value on each side of the dial.

Now you need to solder the fixed resistors to the circuit board and the modification is complete.

If you actually decide to do this modification and you're unsure about anything, just post me some feedback, i'll be glad to help.

Anyway, hopefully it is just a desoldered pin that you need to reflux.

Regards,

Triarcuate

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