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Water escaped the torn rubber seal (I know, I know shoulda had it fixed before using but again but it is sooo expensive and this is our third seal!!!) and leaked I suppose inside. Now my waterproof s

Pressed pause button down for a couple of seconds. Nothing. Then unplugged machine and plugged in again.

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 3,368 Answers

I would consider having a service person come in and repair it, you have already spent a good portion of the cost on seals to no avail. There might be a simpler answer but without knowing make and model we are at a loss.

Posted on Nov 25, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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KOakaKO
  • 135 Answers

SOURCE: problem with frigidaire washing machine

I've read in a product review that Frigidaire put out a service bulletin regarding the electronic timer circuit board in these machines. Apparently enough of these boards failed to prompt a factory response. With this in mind, you should call an appliance repair center and ask them if they're aware of this Factory Service Bulletin. In many cases like this, where a part is manufactured defective, the repair could be free to you.

Posted on Aug 04, 2007

  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 washing machine model 110.45862404

ck pump door lock

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing Bellow Seal

Here ya go. A bit lengthy, but thorough. Carefully read through the instructions before you begin.


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the screw(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten The clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases The clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get The clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. the washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Post back if you need further assistance, or have any questions.

Posted on May 03, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Front Loader Kenmore Mod # 110.44832202 is leaking.

The rubber seal is known as a bellow. If the bellow is torn, more than likely it IS the cause of your leak. Your only course of action is the replace it. Searspartsdirect.com carries replacements. Just type in your model (as you provided) and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 1 (part #8182119). It is not a cheap part, but it will cost you much more to have an appliance repair company install it for you. This is not a difficult repair, and you can accomplish this on your own if you follow these steps:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

Some additional parts that normally do not need replaced, but you may consider just in case are the front and back clamps that hold the bellow in place. They are listed under the same heading as items 6 and 14. They don't cost that much and may consider them just in case you need them. In particular, the front clamp, can break or the spring becomes stretched. Inspect these items just to be sure.

I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.

PS You may also try repairclinic.com for comparative pricing. They also carry the same parts (sometimes for less).

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: I have Model WF-S6607?WF-S6607TC. Washing Machine.

This might be Lid cover open protection. There is a small magnet at the edge of the lid cover, housed in some sort of a catch.
If the plastic housing cracked, the magnet might have dropped into the washing drum. To overcome this, place a magnet on the position where the plastic catch will contact the washer when the lid is close.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

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My problem first started with my maytag LAT9416AAE making terrible sounds and the smell of burning rubber. We replaced the belts that were loose and thought that fixed it. Now it is leaking water unde


Tub seal should take care of the leaking water sounds like you have a bad spin bearing from the water leak this will make a loud noise and put a drag on the basket trying to spin this will cause the belts to slip giving you the burning smell since you have it torn down remove the lower pulley lift out the transmission and change the bearing below it this is the spin bearing.

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Have 2002 dodge neon that gets water in the trunk where spare tire is housed, and large amount of water in both rear floor areas. What might be the problem and how much do you think it will cost to fix?


try opening the trunk and cleaning the water drain off out. there is a rubber strip that goes around the lip of the trunk that gets clogged with leaves and sticks and just trash.look at the rubber strip to see if clogged or torn. if it's torn you'll need to replace or repair it with some silicone sealent.around where that strip is, thats a drain for water to run off the car. try to clean and repair before you replace it but if you have to replace it, the rubber strip is not that expensive, maybe $30.00 for the rubber and it's easy to install.hope this helps!!

Aug 22, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Neon

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I turned on my dish washer this morning and with in seconds soap was running out of the machine. How do I fix it?


It sounds like a door leak. There isn't a whole lot of water in the bottom of a dishwasher so it may just have looked like soap. Open the door and using a bright flashlight check the rubber seals carefully. Look for any torn or out of place gasket material. I think you will find that you need to have the gasket replaced which is not all that expensive.

Aug 25, 2009 | Kenmore 24 in. 15932 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Piece of rubber came out torn. water leaks out


door seal must have hole in it replace hole at bottomof seal

Jul 06, 2009 | Washing Machines

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A/C blows warm air


Have them look at the doors for the heater box. There's a computer that runs them & they might need to be re-calibrated. If the seal leaked again on the compressor then ask for a new compressor. They shoulda done that anyway. Takes more time to change that seal than to replace the whole thing.

Jun 21, 2009 | 2005 Ford Escape

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Large inside rubber seal torn for the third time


new boot or "bellow" is $116 and you could do it yourself. some older front loaders had this problem. the larger the gap opening to its lower trench the more it collects. would not recommend tranditional top loader as these are being phased out. if you must buy a new machine- recommend other than whirlpool, front load (buy GE, or LG)

Mar 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

DGB-600 grind & brew thermal coffeemaker


Water leaking in the DGB-600 is mainly caused by heated water escaping from its proper path. There is a rubber grommet on the underside of the upper part of the coffeemaker. (It contacts the lid over the filter basket when the front door is closed.) The design in this area is very poor; the grommet does not seat properly in the fixed part of the coffeemaker, and heated water seeps out. Also, the heated water tube that comes up through the cold water reservoir is actually in 2 pieces. One goes inside of the other, but there is no seal. It is a loose enough fit that some steam escapes, condenses on the inside top surface of the coffeemaker, and then finds its way down to add to the leaking. I completely disassembled my coffeemaker (3 of the screws in the upper compartment are hidden under small circular plugs that look like they are part of the plastic surface), and used high temperature automotive RTV sealer to help the rubber grommet seal better, and to seal the 2-piece hot water tube. Works great now! But I must say that I have seen better engineering in childs' toys!

Jul 21, 2008 | Cuisinart DGB-600 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

Water leaking from the base of the unit.


Water leaking in the DGB-600 is mainly caused by heated water escaping from its proper path. There is a rubber grommet on the underside of the upper part of the coffeemaker. (It contacts the lid over the filter basket when the front door is closed.) The design in this area is very poor; the grommet does not seat properly in the fixed part of the coffeemaker, and heated water seeps out. Also, the heated water tube that comes up through the cold water reservoir is actually in 2 pieces. One goes inside of the other, but there is no seal. It is a loose enough fit that some steam escapes, condenses on the inside top surface of the coffeemaker, and then finds its way down to add to the leaking. I completely disassembled my coffeemaker (3 of the screws in the upper compartment are hidden under small circular plugs that look like they are part of the plastic surface), and used high temperature automotive RTV sealer to help the rubber grommet seal better, and to seal the 2-piece hot water tube. Works great now! But I must say that I have seen better engineering in childs' toys!

Jul 17, 2008 | Cuisinart DGB-600 Coffee Maker

4 Answers

Kenmore he 2 plus front loading washer


Solution for clogged soap dispenser on Kenmore He2. If you open the door and slightly pull the gray rubber seal away from the drum, at the 10:00 position, you can see if there is an item blocking the inside soap despenser drain pipe. I had a sock stuck in there and I gently used two fingers (one from each hand) to grab the lodged item and pull it out. It no longer looked like a sock, but a torn up washcloth. If this solves your problem, I highly recommend using a mesh laundry bag to wash anything smaller than a washcloth. Socks (all socks, not just a baby's socks), thongs, etc have all gotten stuck in the soap despenser drain and in the water outlet drain filter. They are too torn to be used again, of course but it answers the age-old question of "where did all the matching socks go!"

What I recommend to anyone who has this washer to do their regular cleaning cycle. After you do this, check both drains, the grey rubber seal, etc for anything that may have gotten in here. If you use the mesh bags for anything smaller than a shirt and pants, you will find that the clogged draining problems will happen with less frequency.

Also, before doing expensive repairs, take an hour or two to search the web and see if you can figure out (from customers before you) how to fix these chronic problems. If there is still a problem you can't fix and HAVE to call a repairman, watch the repairman fix the problem so you know how to fix it next time. Not only that but you can tell us what the repairman did so those that have the problem after you, have a way to fix the "simple" fixes.

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