Question about Washing Machines
Pressed pause button down for a couple of seconds. Nothing. Then unplugged machine and plugged in again.
I would consider having a service person come in and repair it, you have already spent a good portion of the cost on seals to no avail. There might be a simpler answer but without knowing make and model we are at a loss.
Posted on Nov 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I've read in a product review that Frigidaire put out a service bulletin regarding the electronic timer circuit board in these machines. Apparently enough of these boards failed to prompt a factory response. With this in mind, you should call an appliance repair center and ask them if they're aware of this Factory Service Bulletin. In many cases like this, where a part is manufactured defective, the repair could be free to you.
Posted on Aug 04, 2007
SOURCE: Replacing Bellow Seal
Here ya go. A bit lengthy, but thorough. Carefully read through the instructions before you begin.
This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the screw(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten The clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases The clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get The clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. the washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.
I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Post back if you need further assistance, or have any questions.
Posted on May 03, 2008
The rubber seal is known as a bellow. If the bellow is torn, more than likely it IS the cause of your leak. Your only course of action is the replace it. Searspartsdirect.com carries replacements. Just type in your model (as you provided) and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 1 (part #8182119). It is not a cheap part, but it will cost you much more to have an appliance repair company install it for you. This is not a difficult repair, and you can accomplish this on your own if you follow these steps:
Some additional parts that normally do not need replaced, but you may consider just in case are the front and back clamps that hold the bellow in place. They are listed under the same heading as items 6 and 14. They don't cost that much and may consider them just in case you need them. In particular, the front clamp, can break or the spring becomes stretched. Inspect these items just to be sure.
I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.
PS You may also try repairclinic.com for comparative pricing. They also carry the same parts (sometimes for less).
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
This might be Lid cover open protection. There is a small magnet at the edge of the lid cover, housed in some sort of a catch.
If the plastic housing cracked, the magnet might have dropped into the washing drum. To overcome this, place a magnet on the position where the plastic catch will contact the washer when the lid is close.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
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