Question about Maytag Washing Machines
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I am sorry to hear that you have error code F3E2. I know how upsetting error codes can be. I see here that for your Maytag washer, error F3E2 means there is a water temperature sensor error. Below is to test the error
WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR ERROR:
1. If the water temperature sensor valve is out of range (23 degrees to 217 degrees F or -5 to 103 degree C) during the water-heating step of the WASH cycle.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power
b. Make sure that connections to water heater and CCU (TH2 & HE2 cavities) connectors are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible.
c. Check continuity from the water heater sensor (black wires to CCU (TH2 cavity) Connector.
d. If the continuity diagnosis failed, the Main Harness must be replaced.
e. Check the resistance of the heating element.
f. Check the resistance of the water sensor.
g. Plug in the washer or reconnect power.
h. Verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic test.
i. After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.
Below is the diagnostic test. I have it in two halves so you can read it best that way.
If you will submit your model number I will be able to help you further.
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello,It is drain pump error. Possible solution:
• Clean the debris filter.
• Make sure the drainage hose is installed correctly.
If wont help you need to look in drain pump/wiring
More information about error codes here:
Posted on May 31, 2010
I had the same problem. Mine ended up being a cut in the pressure switch hose. Here's what I would do to troubleshoot:
1) Clean the filter down bottom one more time. Run a basket-clean cycle and make sure that the drain pump is working. If so, then move to step 2.
2) Do a diagnostic test. Here's some graphical instructions on how to do it:
Grab the codes off the t02 error codes test. There is a reference manual for the codes in a plastic envelope behind the bottom access panel on the front of the washer (panel below the door) -- remove the 3 screws then pull out from bottom. Lookup the codes and see what they mean.
Mine was E22 -- which indicates problem with pressure switch.
3) Do the t06 basket test. If it fails, then open up the top of the washer to check the pressure switch and hose:
Twist the pressure switch 90 degrees clockwise toward the spring to release it. Undo the hose clamps and blow down the hose. Blow into the pressure switch to make sure a contact isn't stuck. I took the bottom panel off the washer and disconnected the other end of the pressure tube from the bottom of the tub. Once disassembled, I blocked the end with my finger to see if the hose was punctured -- sure enough it was. I taped it and reassembled. If after repairing and blowing out, if you still have problems, replace the pressure switch ($60 on Amazon).
Posted on Jul 27, 2011
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