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My Dynamite is having some problems and i have no idea whats wrong it will run drive at about quarter power then the throttle goes out but still have steering so i have to turn it off and back on a

Its brushless and running stock 8.4 battery and 2.4 radio

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What sort of battery are you using ? if it is the original stock battery which is Nimh 8.4v, it is possible that this has formed a memory and is failing . change to Lipo 11.1v 2s 2000Mah or above and you should see a significant change in performance

Posted on May 08, 2017


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A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Runs for about 2-5 minutes and then down to

Sounds to me like the battery is going out on it. Not sure how much a replacement battery is, but it is where I would start.

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I just purchased a 1/16

I have the same problem with my mini vxl slash sometimes and for me anyway I first unplug the battery, plug it back in, set the esc and then rotate the throttle adjustment on the transmitter reverse and then foward and for me that seems to work everytime. Dont know for sure if this is the same problem that you are having but I hope my answer helps...

Posted on Jan 19, 2011

  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: Midland gxt-850 gets HOT!


It is very possible that the terminal of the positive end of the bottom battery is shorting to the battery's body hence the heating up. If this is the case, then when you charge the radio, excessive current is flowing since the battery set has one shorted. Again this would cause heat buildup specially on the bottom battery and the charging terminals.

A possible solution is to check the bottom battery's positive terminal and ensure that it only contacts with the positive terminal of the battery and does not touch the battery body (which is negative).

Alternately (and perhaps more to your advantage), seek replacement of the defective unit considering it is new and therefore should be under warranty.

Hope that this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things turned out or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Posted on Dec 06, 2007

  • 1139 Answers

SOURCE: Alpine pdx-1.1000

Hello Briankt69,

Ot two issues, First the AMP is going into a protection mode this means that it is drawing too much current. As netrecov said you need a capacitor, this will oppose the rapid current draw, by allowing the voltage to remain constant. However I would also sugget that you rewire the setup to manufatures specification and make sure that all grounds and supply leads are installed properly. Taking into mind the the 4awg wire has less cross sectional surface than the 2 or 0 AWG wire causing it to have more resistance this is power loss in this case (follow the specifications).

I hope this helps

Thank you,


Posted on Apr 21, 2008

  • 319 Answers

SOURCE: Honda Civic Steering problem

Hi Dan

You did not indicate whether you checked the fluid level for your power steering. Please check this first. Please read your owners manual for specific instructions!

You may be low on fluid.

The next step would be to check your engine belt. The power steering pump is driven by a belt. It is possible that you have a loose or worn belt that is not able to turn the pump sufficiently at idle, but when you rev the engine higher, the pump produces sufficient power. One way to test this is to rev the engine, then try to turn the wheel, see if you notice any difference. Let me know.


Posted on Jun 16, 2008

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Not understanding what your asking, if it runs and shifts gears then it's getting gas, if it's acting like no power I would look for vacuum hose or considering the fuel pump going bad. Fuel pumps can be interment but eventually will fail. If tank is full probably work ok less than a quarter tank and the pump is out of the fuel and heating up.

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These vehicles use a "drive by wire" system. That means there is no longer a cable to pull the throttle open.

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You either had a sensor go bad, or the motor that opens the throttle.

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I have a '06 chevy aveo that won't hardly pull it's self down the drive way. check engine light came on then started blinking. now it don't blink just stays on. car has NO power and only has 63,000 on it....

have 'sort of' the same [problem on wifes car. it lost power while driving and she had to pull over and shut the car off and restart it.
I pulled the codes with a OBD2 scanner and came up with 3 codes, P2106, P2110 and P2135.
Last one is for Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/switch A/B voltage Correlation, figure that must be the TPS as its known. Checked on line for it and found several for around, get this, 181 dollars!!!!
Other codes were for Throttle Acuator Control System Forced Limited RPM.
So I'm figuring a new TPS "might" fix the problem but $180 is not easy to let go of but may have to.

First, do as first post says, or take it to a Checker or AutoZone or someone like that in your area and have them run the OBD2 scanner on it to see what codes your car throws, then you have an "idea" of what may be wrong, sometimes those codes will not send you to the correct area. Just replacing sensors can get expensive only to find out it is caused by a vacuum leak or throttle body is bad (those are real pricey).
Check with someone that get retrieve the codes for free first.

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