Question about Washing Machines
Well, there are a couple of places where washers can leak.
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Two part question, two part solution (I hope). First the Whirlpool, most of the drain problems I have encountered with the Whirlpool top loaders can be attributed to a few things: 1. Defective Lid Switch - washer will fill normally, but will stop suddenly when it begins to agitate. The tub will remain filled with water and will not drain. Cost: about $30. 2. Defective Motor Coupling - Since you mentioned washing a blanket, heavier loads can put some wear and tear on the motor coupling, and wear them out. The couplings from the manufacturer are usually comprised of all of plastic and have been known to strip. After market couplers have a steel grommet in the center to prevent this. Symptoms: Washer will fill, but will not agitate. You will hear a loud rattling noise during the wash cycle with the drum remaining still. The tub will still drain sometimes, but won't spin. Cost: about $15 3. Clogged Drain Pump - Located inside the machine under the wash tub in the front. The pump is small (white of gray plastic) with two hoses connected to it. The pump does not come apart, so you will have to remove the hoses to inspect inside. If your tub is full of water, however, a wet/dry shop-vac will come in handy to remove the water, FIRST!. Symptoms: Washer will fill and agitate, but will not drain during the rinse or spin cycle. If clogged, severely, the pump shaft connecting to the drive motor will strip and the pump will need to be replaced. Cost: about $40. Now...the Kenmore. Fill problems where the water does not shut off are usually attributed to a bad pressure switch. The pressure switch would be the load level selector on the console. Before you call the switch bad and order a new one, however, inspect the clear plastic hose from the switch all the way to the bottom of the wash tub. This is known as an "air-dome" hose and sometimes will crack or develop holes in them. If the air is allowed to escape from the hose, the air pressure will never be substantial enough to shut the pressure switch off. It may be an easy fix of just replacing a rubber hose. Good luck and I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 06, 2007
Possible that you would have a tub seal leak if it is only noticable during spin cycle. Possible that it "drips" slightly while in agitation, but not enough to notice it. While in spin mode you have a lot more parts moving as well as a lot more water pressure on the seal itself. Pump could also be leaking, but highly doubtful since it would leak a constant amount at all times. Good Luck!!! Jim
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
SOURCE: Washer leaking water from bottom
MIne did and it was the bleach container on the top that was getting clogged and leaking over, we actually drilled the hole a bit bigger and cleaned it all out and it stopped. I've had to take the whole top of the washer off to do this about 2-3 times now.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
SOURCE: Washer leaking water from bottom
You may want to check the seal at the bottom of the agitator, there is a o-ring that keeps the water in the drum from leaking through the agitator as it spins. This is a cheap seal and will wear over a period of time from exposure to bleach and detergent. You need to take the agitator apart and remove it from the drum and you should see this seal at the base of the agitator were it meets the drum.
Replace the seal and reassemble, take the metal casing off the washer and fill the drum with a little water, wait, and see if the water is leaking under the drum. If no leak, try to reassemble and run the washer. If is still leaks then check http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html
Posted on Aug 12, 2009
Make the standpipe longer (the black pipe).
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Posted on Sep 13, 2010
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