Question about Dryers
The power company corrected the power problem and restored the power to a constant 120 or so volts. The fan has a pressure control switch that comes on and switches off when the dryer finishes drying. after the power spike, the fan will not come on. It is getting power.
You have an owners manual with a trouble chart
If you pay for service, they won't come for two weeks,
& then leave for a week, until the parts come in
The parts come in one day ,they come back in one week with
them,now you got no dryer for three weeks
Need to diagnose this yourself
If you have the manual & wiring diagram, you may have
to test down to the circuit control board, as I did with a
washer, not a year old
I had no power spike & it failed & all tests passed in the
diagnostic manual,just had to go for the board
Doubt the fan is ruined from the power company issue
The electronics are more likely
Posted on Nov 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer not starting
when u say u checked all areas for power did u use a muti meter.. ? to make SURE u had power?
u could try jumping out the door switch to check and see if the door switch is the problem
Posted on Nov 01, 2007
SOURCE: Dryer not drying
The is for a WTA3500. Not sure if its the same as the 3510, but it couldn't be too different.
You have to remove the back cover. (Make sure the power is disconnected first, of course.) It's about a dozen screws, no big deal. Once the cover is off, you'll have a view of the heater unit and the blower. The heater unit is a box in the center of the drum with some wires running in and out. On that box is a circular black piece with a red button. Just push that button, and put your cover back on.
You should probably check for any obstructions in the exhaust channels that might have caused your dryer to over heat while you're at it.
Posted on Jan 04, 2008
Most electric dryers run on 110 volts, but heat on 220 volts. Unit needs to be wired to 208 to 240 volt, 30 amp circuit to Run and HEAT properly. Motor, interior light and controls run on 110 volts, neutral (white wire) and one hot wire, usually black. The heater works on both 110 volt hot wires, usually one red and one black wire. Unit can be hooked up to run and heat on 110 volts but will allways take two or three times as long as a 220 volt setup. It is producing half or a little less of its 5600 watt rating. It takes three things to efficiently dry clothes: heat, air flow and tumbling action. Remove any one and the unit runs much less efficiently. If you need a dryer to run on 120 volts, buy one that says 110 - 120 volt operation only, but it will still take up to two hours or so to dry a load. Brent
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
SOURCE: dryer motor will not start
Did you check the push to start button for continuity? i tried pulling up a wire diagram for that model. but every one ull up i cant read what color wiring it is because it to small of a print, but i can see the rest if the components fine. The wire diagram that i pulled up shows a thermo fuse inline with the motor. That is also in line with a belt switch. By any chance, did you see a belt switch down there? Its should be a little switch by the pulley. if so, check that. If you do have a belt switch, make sure your belt isnt broken. which probably isnt because you would of noticed that right of the bat. But yeah, i think i see the fuse your talkin about that is inline with the motor. Hopefully the wire diagram that i keep pulling up is that dryer you have. You said that fuse is reading "OL" on your meter when its set on ohms right? If it is change the it out. If it reads 0.0 ohms, that fuse is good. I like to use the ohms setteting on my meter when checking stuff like that out. But yeah, like i said if your dryer has a belt switch down there check it out also. If your belt is in tact, just unplug the wires to the belt switch and ohm it out, should be 0.0 ohms for good switch. But if your belt is broken(which i dont think its not) you would have to pull the switch up and ohm it. (Like if you had belt tension around pully.) But yeah, check the push to start switch, check that fuse again, and check the belt switch(if its down there by the idler pully) 0.0 homs for good switchs, "OL" for bad for bad ones. I know i typed alot. sorry for this long story. But hope this helps..let me no what happens...
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer won't stay running
I had the same problem with my kemore. Thank goodness I still had it under warranty.
The tech said the door latch was just slightly ajar. This is common he said that when we take clothes out we let the door close to hard or gets ajar for leaning in to take clothes out.
He readjusted it and I have never had a problem with it again.
Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
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