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I'm not sure what they are called , I'll give it my best shot to explain it , my clausen split system has air flow grid at the front which moves slowly from left to right , one of the

This only happened a while ago the air flow part which I explained earlier has broken I don't know where to go for parts

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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kstfas
  • 75 Answers

SOURCE: 1990's Emerson Quiet Kool window air conditioner

Hi, It opens a flap that allows fresh outside air to come in. The opening it screen covered on most units so no insects get in. To get the most cooling it is best to leave it closed. If you want fresher air, open it. Please rate my suggestion if it has helped. Thank you and, Have a good day. kstfas

Posted on Sep 07, 2007

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  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: need to replace the front felt seal - GE gas dryer

since you got the top opened, now look inside the front panel toward top remove screws or hex screws now you can remove the front panel. Undo the door switch wires before removing the front panel. The felt seal should be glued to the front panel aroun the opening to the drum you should be able to tell where it was.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

roniecon
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SOURCE: 2004 gmc denali split front air left side blows

add freon it is low

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

Johnny Reb
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Remove and relocate split air conditioner

The simplest way of explaining this is as per the following. On your outdoor compressor unit there should be two pipes, one smaller diameter [high pressure] and a larger diameter pipe [low pressure]. Turn your A/C on inside the house and then shut off the smaller diameter pipe. Run the unit for a around 3 to 4 minutes and then check if the cooling is reducing from the unit inside the house. When you feel room temperature air [not cool] being emitted from the indoor unit shut off the larger diameter pipe and turn off unit. Isolate electrics, disconnect A/C piping and immediately seal the piping with good quality tape to prevent egress of dirt. When re-installing a quick purge of gas is usually only required to clear the lines if they were sealed properly and kept clean. Ideally running a vacuum pump is recommended but if care was taken then it may not be needed, as in many of my installations.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: Which is the best way to hook up a Subwoofer?

Last two questions first - YES, use an RCA splitter to share sub line level out between two subs and use one at the subwoofer end to share that line with both inputs on the sub.

Either attachment scheme you describe would work.

Not being a big fan of conversion/deconversion for no real purpose, I would avoid stepping the high-level input down to line level for use by the sub's internal amp, run RCA to the sub(s) and keep them physically and electrically independent of anything else unless cable routing is facilitated somehow by daisy-chaining other speakers from the sub(s).

Posted on Jan 19, 2010

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1 Answer

Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Hotpoint rla31 motor constantly running/freezing at the back


Your fridge is cooled by the freezer, the thermostat is within the Fridge to tell it to shut off, you might have a bad fan or a build up of frost where the air is sent to the fridge, check where air goes to the fridge when it's running, if you don't feel air flow then something is up, best thing you can do is take everything out and allow the fridge to defrost, at leat 24hrs. then see what happens, if you don't feel air flow after the defrost then you fan is shot and you'll need to replace it.

Aug 04, 2012 | Hotpoint RLA31 Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

Front will not go down when trying to vacuum


Hi there,

I'm sorry to hear you're having difficulties with your DC24. If it seems to be jammed in the upright position, I'd encourage you to give us a call, as we should be able to provide further assistance. You can reach us on 0800 298 0298 (UK), or 1-866-693-9766 (US) - please have the machine to hand when you call, as we'll be able to run through some troubleshooting checks over the phone with you, to make sure everything is correct with your machine.

We'll look forward to hearing from you.

Best wishes,

Jack
Dyson Online Customer Support
http://www.dyson.com

Apr 24, 2012 | Dyson Ball DC24 Bagless Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

My nokia N70 is draining out of the battery so quickly.i have replaced the battery from 1070mah battery still the problem haven't been resolved.plz give me the sol. for this.


This is not a battery problem as you've clearly found out. I've been faced with this situation myself and was told that it was a problem with the phone.

You'll need to take your phone to a store where your service provider is located and replace it with another phone, or have this one repaired.

It's best to return it directly to the store you purchased it from. However, if you didn't purchase from a store, call the carrier directly to explain the problem in detail.
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Aug 06, 2011 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Coils freeze up


The first thing to do is see if the indoor (evaporator-air handler) fan and compressor are both running at the same time, then turn the unit off and let all the ice melt.
If the compressor is running and the evaporator fan isn't, you've already found the main cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.
The indoor coil will freeze up if the compressor runs without the evaporator fan running.
Check to see if ice has built up enough to stop the fan.
If it has, (and it's possible with wall mounted ductless mini split units and some window units), the fan may run normally once the ice melts, and the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem could be something else.
If you are the equipment owner trying to take care of this air conditioning freezing problem yourself, and you get to the point that you have to call in a technician, it could save him time, (which saves you money) if you have already verified whether the evaporator fan was or wasn't running with the compressor, and if ice had built up enough to stop the fan.
Once the ice has melted, check the fan or blower blades, and see if they're clean and not obstructed by something like a plastic bag, other debris, or mould growth.
Remove any obstructions, and if necessary, remove the blower and clean it.
Before tearing into the rest of the unit, check the thermostat and make sure it's working right.
Do the cool contacts open when the t-stat is turned up to a higher temp than the room temp?
If not, the thermostat has failed, and never turns the unit off, which can definitely cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
Do the fan contacts open and close when the thermostat setting is turned higher and lower than the room temperature?
If the fan contacts never close but the cool contacts do, the thermostat has failed and caused your air conditioning freezing problem.
If the fan contacts close, but the fan doesn't run, check the fan relay in the air handler.
If the fan relay is not getting control voltage, the circuit is open between the thermostat and the fan relay.
Look for a loose connection, wrong connection, dis-connection, or broken wire.
If it gets control voltage but doesn't energize, it has failed, and must be replaced.
If it energizes but the fan doesn't run, check for line voltage on the load side of the relay.
If there is line voltage on the load side of the relay and the fan doesn't run, you'll have to troubleshoot the load side circuit and the fan motor as detailed further on.
If the thermostat checks out ok, set the thermostat to "fan on" and make sure the blower runs in the correct direction and at the proper RPM, that it is installed in the housing correctly, and is the right size.
If the blower is installed backwards or is running in reverse, the coil can freeze up. (Although I have seen several units that didn't freeze up with reversed blowers.)
You will need to turn the blower around, reverse the rotation of the motor if it is a reversible rotation motor, or install a motor with the correct rotation.
A blower that runs too slow can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
You'll need to install a motor that runs at the correct speed.
A blower that is too small, or that is installed in the housing incorrectly, can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
You will need to install the correct size blower, and be sure it is installed correctly in the housing.
This means centered, with volutes installed, and the curve of the vanes matching the outlet of the housing.
If the blower motor is the wrong size, if the bearings are failing, or if it has an open start winding or a failed run capacitor, it could be overheating and stopping intermittently.
A motor that is overheating and stopping intermittently can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
To check out the evaporator fan motor:
Check the resistance readings of the motor windings.
If you get a readable resistance between all three windings, the motor windings should be ok.
Turn the shaft. If it turns free and easy, the bearings should be ok.
If the shaft is hard to turn, lube the bearings with 20 SAE electric motor oil if there are lube ports.
If that frees the shaft, it should run ok for a while, but the bearings or bushings may be deteriorated to the point that they'll sieze again soon.
If the shaft doesn't free up, replace the motor.
If the shaft turns freely, check the capacitor.
The best way to check the capacitor is to replace it with a new one of the correct rating.
If the motor runs, close the air handler panels, and take an amp draw on the motor.
If it's normal it should run OK, and if the motor was the problem, your air conditioning freezing problem should stop.
Ok, if you've verified that the controls and fan are good, take a break for a diet soda, and then we'll see if the evaporator coil or ducting are the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.
Take a look at the evaporator coil.
Is it clean? Can you see your flashlight shining through from the other side?
If the coil's dirty, you'll have to do some air conditioning coil cleaning.
If your air conditioner is a window type, our page about how to clean window air conditioners has some pointers you might find useful.
A dirty evaporator coil is a common cause of air conditioning freezing,
And it's one of the problems that can be prevented with regularly scheduled air conditioning maintenance.
If the coil is clean, check the ducting to make sure nothing is blocking air flow.
Blocked ducting will stop air flow through the evaporator coil, and this will cause the coil to freeze up.
If your coil is clean and the ducting is clear, let's run the unit and check the operating pressures and temperatures.
If your discharge and suction pressures are low, with a low compressor amp draw, low subcooling, high superheat, and low temperature splits accross your evaporator and condenser coils, you probably have a leak.
Shut the unit down, find the leak and repair it.
Once the leak is found and/or repaired and you're ready to run the unit, our Charging Air Conditioning Systems page offers some tips that you might find helpful.
If you are totally unable to locate the leak with a bubble solution or electronic detector, you'll have to charge in refrigerant to correct pressures, temperatures, and superheat and subcooling values, and it would be a good idea to add some air conditioning leak detector dye so the leak can be found later on.
You have to use some common sense about leaks.
If the leak is so small that you can't find oil or any other sign; unless the customer agrees to pay you for all the time you spend, it's more cost effective to charge in the small amount of refrigerant it will take to get the unit running correctly, finish the service call, and be on your way.
I can't imagine that there's a service technician out there who hasn't run into the same problem many times.
Use some common sense, be up front with your customer, and if you've done your best not only to find the leak, but to get the unit running right and save your customer unnecessary expense, consider it a job well done.
If your suction pressure is low enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up, but you have high subooling and high superheat, either your metering device is restricted or the wrong size, your drier is restricted, or your liquid line is restricted.
Evaluate all of the system's operating characteristics to isolate the restriction.

Copied from the following web site:
http://www.air-conditioning-and-refrigeration-guide.com/air-conditioning-freezing.html

Jun 30, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

When replacing a front caliper do you just need to bleed that brake line.


If you can be sure that the master cylinder did not **** in any air during the replacement procedure then yes, you can get away with bleeding only that line. Unfortunately such a thing rarely happens. It is best to bleed the whole system. That way you can be sure that there is no air in the system and the brake fluid has been replaced to boot.Never take chances with your brakes. They're like a parachute. If it's not there when you need it, chances are you'll never need it again.

May 18, 2011 | Buick LeSabre Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the drainedge for the radioter


For a 2001 Buick Regal GS 3.8 Liter, Supercharged engine:

First, let engine cool some. Second, locate small drainage hole at the bottom left/drivers side, of the radiator. From the bottom of this small drain hole, go straight back toward rear of radiator, then up about 1 1/2 to 2 inches up. (Have a drain pan or pail handy, to catch the old antifreeze.) You'll find a dark colored drain nut. Use a larger, correct sized socket ratchet wrench & loosen this fitting a turn or so, counter clockwise. Old antifreeze will begin to come out the bottom drain hole. The more you loosen the fitting, the faster the fluid flow out. I wouldn't remove the drain plug completely, or you'll loose control of the draining flow rate.

I just changed my anti-freeze just last week. I also changed the 2 large radiator hoses & smaller 2' overflow hose at the same time, as long as I was doing the job. They had never been changed before. I also used new hose clamps & a small packet of "radiator hose grease", from Autozone.. I drove the car up onto front car ramps to make it easier. I used safety jack stands for extra care. " You-Tube" shows some, "how to videos", that are helpful.

The old hose clamps are difficult to get to. (You'll need a few tools, some time & patience.) To get to the upper clamp, near the right/passenger side of the of the car, near the battery, I removed the outer serpentine belt & tension pully. I then removed the factory installed spring tension clamp, with the help of an adjustable battery pliers. The bottom of this hose wasn't too bad to get to. On the left/drivers side of car, remove black air intake box to access upper clamp. Remove the black metal brace bar, the will allow access to the air intake black box.

I also changed the small overflow 2 foot long hose & 2 clamps, that goes from radiator cap area, back to the overflow white plastic tank, close to passenger firewall. I removed the overflow tank to clean it out as well. I drained the fluid & changed the 3 hoses & clamps. I then placed all removed parts back where they belong, including white plastic overflow tank, tension pully & outer serpentine belt, air intake black box & metal diagonal brace, contacting air intake box. I flushed the system with some Prestone Radiator Cleaner & clean water. Start car & get up to temp., then run for about 10 minutes. Let cool, then drain again. I flushed my car at least 2-3 times after this, until the drain water ran clear.

The best price on a 5 year/150,000 mile anti freeze, came from Wal-Mart. I then mixed about 50/50 with Distilled water, as suggested on the bottle. All went well & no leaks! I took my time and did a thorough job. Good luck!

Jan 16, 2011 | 2001 Buick Regal

1 Answer

Need to clean massive air flow


There is a special cleaner/solvent needed to clean mass air flow sensor. It can not leave a residual film. You can go to most any auto parts stores & locate it. It will say mass air flow sensor cleaner or safe to use on mass air flow sensors. I know a company called CRC makes the one I use. Just disassemble boots to both side of sensor & unplug wire connector. Clean off both sides of grid & allow to dry. Reassemble.

Jun 30, 2010 | 1997 Mercury Cougar XR7

1 Answer

I need a manual for a Clausen kyd-32/a portable air conditioner


http://www.search-document.com/pdf/1/clausen-air-conditioner-kyd-32a.html

Nov 11, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Bike air screws


checked trim pots are at 12 o'clock (little blue screws on ECU) and set the air bleed screws to 1.5 front and 3/4 rear (big brass screws on throttle body) as per a previous thread on gabro chips. Bike seem to run fine but can anyone explain why the air bleeds are set differently front-rear and not the same?. Please forgive my ignorance just need to know for peace of mind that i am not damaging things. thanks I think you'll find that its to do with the uneven firing interval the V60 engines produce setting them the same produces a crap idle. If you're doing it by the old school of ear then go with whats giving the best results to you I'm sure you'll be acceptably close so you're not damaging things. The best way is make sure things like manifold pressures between the cylinders are synchronised using mercury tube gauges or similar. Do a search and you'll find much has been written on this subject, noteably posts by the likes of Maestro kzmille, even Gabro himself and others have covered this ground many times over put it is faster words, if you dont know how to do it, spend 150 bucks and have a shop do it, its worth every dollar... i had Factory pro do it when i bought my chip up there, made a WORLD of difference, i set it up and thought it ran **** , but after i got it back, they added 6 HP and 8 lbs of torque, and it sounded better... so thats my 2 old dirty pennies.. ,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille R

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