Mt controller G4 4k7 art no 8432083163 ser no 015A5E419 problem show.angle not reached. intermittent problem..after screwing. Robert bosch M sdn bhd. penang.malaysia.. wan fahmi

You can find the manual in PDF format at the following link:

http://mypdfmanuals.com/user-manual,BOSCH,ART+26+COMBITRIM,2286788.pdf

Replacing the bulb is not really that tricky, and they only cost a few quid, so definitely worth doing:
1. unplug and take the cover off,
2. remove the two screws at the sides of the control panel, and move the panel out the way,
3. remove the metal plate covering the bulb area (5 screws),
4. squeeze and detach the springy fold of metal holding the bulb,
5. pull off the the bulb's electrical connections
6. unscrew and unhook the bulb, and replace!

My bulb was a 240V 25W T170 with right angled terminals.

Open the the moveable arm and make it straight (180 degrees) or in line with the other.Take the screw off of the black cover at the elbow (1 screw). Lift from the round part and lift off. Then loosen the two screw just inside the cover. This will allow the flywheel to spin and you should now get a read out. If the flywheel does not spin then you need to replace that piece. Gently tighten the two screws and put the cover back on. Hope this helps!

When there is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree, the valve will stop working and the ECM will trigger the P0011 code.

P0011 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1
This mechanism hydraulically controls cam phases continuously with the fixed operating angle of the intake valve.

The ECM receives signals such as crankshaft position, camshaft position, engine speed, and engine coolant temperature. Then, the ECM sends ON/OFF pulse duty signals to the intake valve timing control solenoid valve depending on driving status. This makes it possible to control the shut/open timing of the intake valve to increase engine torque in low/mid speed range and output in high-speed range.

The intake valve timing control solenoid valve changes the oil amount and direction of flow through intake valve timing control unit or stops oil flow. The longer pulse width advances valve angle. The shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When ON and OFF pulse widths become equal, the solenoid valve stops oil pressure flow to fix the intake valve angle at the control position.

Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Possible engine lack/loss of power
- Posssible engine rough idle

Possible causes
- Harness or connectors
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty
- Camshaft position sensor

Tech notes
Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.


Hope thsis helps (remember to rate this answer).

I found that the remaining problem was a intermittent at the switch, which disassembly and cleaning resolved.
Tilting the motor / blade assembly down allows access from below, to the 3 screws fastening the controller circuit board cover on the brush end of the motor. From there, one can easily test exposed wires for power supply, see that brushes are contacting and clean accumulated sawdust.

You need a "right angle screwdriver" or "skewdriver".

Right angle screwdrivers are kind of like tiny ratchets with screwdriver bits.

Skewdrivers are 45 degree angled screwdrivers that rotate when you twist the handle.

I prefer the craftsman right angle screwdriver, as it ratchets easily and applies more torque than a skewdriver.

Under the dash on the passenger side near the fan... it attaches to the duct work... wiring connector goes to it and usually two screws hold it in.
Robert

solution is that u should refill ur printer colour cartrage , if this problem show again then u have to change ur cartrage

Try this link, http://www.applianceaid.com/boschDW.html for procedures for running self-tests on various Bosch models using the front door switches. Find your model and read and follow the procedure.
This remaining at '1' problem invariably relates to a 'heater fault' which has usually been traced to an open solder joint on the control board located behind the switches/indicator lights on front door. See pic here of open solder joint http://www.flickr.com/photos/zenzoidman/145089572/ In most cases, the heating element has not been at fault.
I got mine going again by resoldering the joint and saved ~$300 in parts & labour. If this is beyond your skill set, then replace the control board assembly, 266746, which is used on multiple Bosch models. See this page for more information if you want to try to DIY. http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-parts/bosch-appliance-parts/bosch-dishwasher-control-module-266746-37/

If this is still beyond your skill set, then call a tech & supply the Bosch model, serial number, and the results of the self-tests.