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I have 3 new t5 4 bulb ho high bay fixtures with an advance ICN-4S54-90C-2LS-G ballast. When I turn on the switch only the 2 outside bulbs light up on all 3 fixtures. How can I make the inside bulbs

Power is correct and wiring is correct

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If only two bulbs are lighting on ALL the fixtures, this usually indicates wiring.
Check wiring diagram as follows.
If unsure, contact local electrician to ensure proper wiring within your states electrical code.
http://www.stanion.com/pdf/advance4.pdf

Posted on Nov 24, 2014

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HI. There is no possible short circuit on the fuse box.However it may be possible that fuse has been busted.Have you tried replacing the fuse with a new one?.What measurement you did to conclude that wiring is okey.Have you tried to tests the continuity of the wire using a MULTITESTER.Now if the fuse is defective current will not flow on it,that's why it has no power as well flowing along the circuit.Hope this helps.Thank you for choosing FIXYA.

Posted on Jul 21, 2011

kobusc53
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Mine did the same. After a while the other indicators started doing the same. The problem was the flasher unit. Cost was R830-00 for the unit and 10 minutes of labour to replace.

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Posted on Apr 12, 2014

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Your description sounds like the connectors for the tubes. Also RECHECK wiring. Different on newer ballasts. See below...

Turn off fixture, unplug, or deactivate fuse...

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"CFLs" Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (with built in ballast) must be labeled as dimmable to be used on a dimmer circuit.

Traditional fluorescent fixtures must have a dimmable ballast installed inside and can be used with standard fluorescent lamps.

Fluorescent lamps must be sized to match the ballast. CFL's are matched at the factory, but others are not. Older fluorescent lamp fixtures have a ballast inside. A type rating is to operate (2) 48 inch / 40 watt lamps. Newer fluorescent lamps are rated for 32 watts, and these will not work - or will have a greatly reduced life.

If you installed CFL's, the first thing I would do is install regular incandescent lamps and see if it works as expected. If not, something else is wrong - otherwise - make sure you've got the right lamps in the fixture.

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I like to start by swapping the position of the bulbs. If the one that didn't light, now does, it probably indicates a bad ballast (that long thin black "boxy thing" with wires coming out of it - it may be under a removable metal cover). Next replace the unlit bulb with a new one. If that doesn't light, try swapping the new light to the other position. If you still can't get two bulbs to light, replace both lamps with new ones. A good indication of a bad bulb is one or both blackened ends. The bulbs having two pins on each end have a small filament inside. This blackening is the metal of the filament "boiling off" and depositing on the glass. Eventually the filament gets thin and breaks so it doesn't provide the heat necessary to "prime"" the mercury inside the bulb that conducts electricity and excites the phosphor coating inside the bulb that emits light.If none of this works, most probably the ballast has "gone bad" and it, or the whole fixture, must be replaced, normally by an electrician. This can be done by the home "handyperson." You can cut the wires, remove the old ballast and replace it with a new one, splicing them to those of the same color from the new ballast using small "wire nuts." The one black and one white are the 120 volt power input wires. There are normally a pair of reds, a pair of blues, and a pair of yellows. Any wires of the same color are interchangeable. The blues and reds will go respectively to the bulb's sockets on one end of the fixture; the two yellows go to the opposite fixture end and are connected, in parallel electrically, to the other lamp sockets. If this makes sense, you may attempt to change your own ballast. If not, hire an electrician. Match the specifications for voltage, wattage, and number of bulbs, from your old ballast to the replacement - there are several different important electrical values to match even if the ballast looks physically the same size. Last, always turn off the electricity, and verify that it is safely off using a test light or meter before working on the fixture. Even though the black wire is normally energized and the white has zero volts measured with respect to ground, sometimes their function is reversed by an amateur where the wall switch may disconnect the black wire and make the fixture go off (as it should) yet the white wire remains dangerously energized, which is why you always test both of the wires with the test light or meter with respect to ground before touching any of them. Again, if this is not PERFECTLY clear, hire an electrician. Don't take chances, Electricity KILLS!

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