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Faema E92 error codes E51 and 58 What to check?

Temperature valve and boiler filling check

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Posted on Nov 24, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

EsWorld
  • 1618 Answers

SOURCE: Faema S-87 Spouts copious amounts of water from the top

There could be one of 2 things happening :
1. Problem with auto level.
2. Most likely the inlet valve has a small leak.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

EsWorld
  • 1618 Answers

SOURCE: Older Faema double head. Power light on, but

It is on the right side of the machine behind the grouphead if you remove the top panel you will see te box with the red switch sticking out. MAKE SURE THERE IS WATER IN THE MACHINE FIRST!!!!!! Do not trust the sight glass, if the level probe is in there, turn machine to 1 then disconnect the electrical connector on the side of the sight glass, the pump should kick in and water will flow in the boiler, if the level does not increase in the glass, then the machine turned itself off because the element got too hot from lack of water. The hole for the sight glass is blocked.

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Espresso machine problems

I had bought coffee machine FrancisFrancis! X2 Espresso & Coffee Maker.When I turn on two group not heating up,I try wait about 15 minute but it reached temperature not yet,i checked every thing,however evrything is ok but gren light didn't come on.Please help me,show me how i can fix it.Thank's alot

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

EsWorld
  • 1618 Answers

SOURCE: I own a Faema E92/A Elite and it is leaking water

Remove the top panel, there might be 8 screws holding it on to the machine, then loosen the screws holding the plastic front panels from bottom and remove the clip in the back, you might have to bend the side panels out to remove front panels.

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: we have a faema e92 but our mains water is off,

We have an older type compact Faema and need to shift it to another location. How do we empty it of water

Posted on Feb 20, 2010

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1 Answer

Taco 007 circulating pump stays on even though boiler shuts down


Don't know your specific unit, but in general, heating systems are two-stage devices:

1: Its too cold: the motorised HW/CH valve moved to the required position, and on achieving it, the circulaion pump starts and the boiler is enabled. (The circ pump may start immediately - its not usually important.) The hot water from the boiler circulates through the heat exchanger and/or radiators until the thermostat thinks its target is warm enough, whereupon it disables the boiler, stops the pump and closes/relaxes the valve(s).

2: The boiler is off while disabled. When enabled, it heats the circulating water to a 'high' temperature and seeks to keep it there. If it reaches that temperature, the boiler will cycle on and off as necessary to maintain the set 'high' temperature. (The circulation pump must run all the time the boiler is enabled.) This may be what you're noticing. Additionally, some boilers will run the circulation pump for a little while after being disabled to reduce the temperature if the water in the pipes and boiler.

Your question doesn't say how the pump running corresponds to thee thermostat settings, but if it were stuck on, I think you'd know!

Dec 31, 2016 | Water Heaters

Tip

Boiler Leaking Water - The Boiler Leak may not be the boiler


Went on one call today and had another query by Facebook about this so I though why not write an article about it. Both persons were very concerned as they saw water dripping from theirs boilers. A closer inspection for both showed that it had nothing to do with the boiler its self.

There are many things that can make water leak from your boiler. If you know for sure that the water is coming from a hole in the sections then you may have a serious problem. Usually though there is an easy fix for that also, more on that in another article. Both boilers today were leaking water from the relief valve.254c728.jpg

This valve is design to relieve the excess pressure from the boiler in case of a build up of extra pressure in the boiler. The extra pressure can come from a number of different things. A few of the causes may be a bad expansion tank, a bad fill valve or pressure reducing valve, or an open bypass valve. The bypass is easy, just close it and relieve the extra pressure. The others are not as easy.

Your expansion tank is simply a tank that allows water from the system to go in and out according to the pressure in the system.610ab3c.jpg This tank contains about ½ air which acts as a cushion to absorb the extra volume of water that is created as the water is heated. Hotter water takes up more space or volume, so it needs a place to go to when it is heated. If the expansion tank is totally full of water then, it will push water out of the relief valve. Changing your expansion tank will fix the problem.

If the reducing valve or fill valve is leaking by then you can also get extra pressure in the system.8e5ccb4.jpg A normal heating system will only run 10-20 psi pressure. Most well systems or city water is way higher than that. If the pressure in your boiler gets over 30 psi then it will begin to relieve the extra pressure by dripping water.

If you have a drip from your boiler this is what you check. First the expansion tank, the reducing valve, and the bypass valve that bypasses the fill valve. This valve is usually installed to quick fill the system, or purge the water lines of air.

Often there is just a small problem that looks like a big problem. Do not get excited and methodically check through the possibilities. You will usually find that the problem is not nearly as bad as you first thought that it was.

on Dec 06, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Alpha cd28c boiler loosing water and pressure through pr valve when heating is on,and when then switched off needs repressuring to use heating again.no obvious leaks.new pr valve been fitted.pressure


I assume losing pressure through the PR means Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) or temperature pressure (TPR). Open in TPR may mean boiler is overheating/overpressurized. Open in PRV means the Pressure Reducer/Fill Valve in the fill line of the boiler is broken.
House Water Pressure in a home is 30/40 PSI min to 60-80+PSI max.
Boiler PRV/TPR are set at 30 PSI open (SYSTEM PRESSURE) so too high a house water pressure will open the PRV/TPR. Replace the reduction regulator on/in the fill valve assembly

Oct 20, 2014 | Water Heaters

2 Answers

Why can't i fill my boiler


You didn't specify what kind of boiler you have. Some low pressure steam boilers have a manual fill valve as well as an automatic float switch valve. Hot water boilers have a pressure reducing valve that constantly monitor the boiler pressure and maintain 12 to 18 PSI for the safety of the boiler. If the boiler runs out of water there is a good chance it will rupture and become unrepairable. If you are saying your boiler won't fill, and its a hot water boiler, the pressure reducing valve is probably blocked with sediment and needs replacement. The valve is in the water line that feeds directly into the boiler return line from city water. Hope this helps.

Oct 01, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Error code list


ALARMS THAT STOP THE DISHWASHER

A1 Want of water

Is the water cock open?

Does the water load solenoid valve work?

Is the water feed flow a min. of 5 l/min?

Is the water inlet filter clean?

Is the load solenoid valve filter clean?

Is the overflow inserted?

Do the tank/boiler pressure switches work properly?



C9 Automatic hood out of order

Alarm codes for automatic hood type dishwasher (see paragraph 9.2.1 Alarm codes for automatic

hood type dishwashers)



C12 Tank level sensor out of order

Are the connectors correctly connected?

Are connector contacts cleaned?

Does the air trap of the tank work correctly?

Is the level sensor broken (replace it with a new one)?



Alarm codes for automatic hood type dishwashers

When the alarm C9 appears, to facilitate fault-finding a parameter providing a more detailed indication has

been introduced.

The parameter is C9 and is found in the ron family.

The possible cause of the anomaly can be found (see next table) according to the value of the parameter C9.

E.g.: With an automatic hood type the alarm C9 appears.

Access the parameter C9 in the ron family.

Assuming the value displayed is:

20 ? During lifting, the current absorbed by the lifting motor has exceeded the threshold. This can happen if

a rack or other heavy material was placed on the hood.









ALARMS THAT DON'T STOP THE DISHWASHER (SHOWN ON THE USER INTERFACE AT REGULAR INTERVALS)

b1 Drain not efficient

Has the overflow been removed?

Is the water drain blocked?

Is the drain pump blocked?

Are the air trap and tank pressure switch clean?

Is there a constriction in the drain tube?

Is the pump breather pipe returning to the tank clogged or constricted?

Does the tank pressure switch work properly?

Is there a hole in the drain tube (only for versions with drain pump)?



b2 Overflow alarm

Is the water drain blocked?

Are the air trap and tank pressure switch clean?

Does the tank pressure switch work properly?

Is the load solenoid valve blocked? (see electrical wiring diagram - YV1 Filling solenoid valve)

Is the load solenoid valve relay stuck? (see electrical wiring diagram - RL5 relay of AP2 board)



C1 Boiler temperature rise too fast

Does the boiler level sensor work properly? The boiler could be empty.

Are no-original power resistances installed?



C2 Boiler temperature too high

Has the boiler temperature been changed (btC - increased above 90°C)?

Has the software alarm value been modified (bH,)?

Does the boiler level sensor work properly?

Boiler relay/relays sticked (see electrical wiring diagram - RL1/ RL2/ RL3 relays of AP2 board)?



C3 Tank temperature too high

Is the feed water above 60°C?

Has the software alarm value been modified (tHi)?

Is the rinse water temperature too high?

Is the tank relay stuck (see electrical wiring diagram - RL4 relay of AP2 board)?



C4 Tank temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected (see electrical wiring diagram - ST1 Tank

probe)?

Is the temperature sensor connector correctly inserted?



C5 Tank temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor short-circuited (see electrical wiring diagram - ST1 Tank probe)?



C6 Boiler temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected (see electrical wiring diagram - ST2 Boiler

probe)?

Is the temperature sensor connector correctly inserted?



C7 Boiler temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor short-circuited (see electrical wiring diagram - ST2 boiler probe)?



C10 Rinse temperature sensor out of order (only on machines with temperature sensor on the rinse circuit)

Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected?

Is the temperature sensor connector correctly inserted?

C11 Rinse temperature sensor out of order (only on machines with temperature sensor on the rinse circuit)

Is the temperature sensor short-circuited?

C13 Rinse pump out of order (the water level of the boiler does not decrease)

Does the rinse pump work correctly?

Is there any bottleneck in the hose, that connect the air trap and the board sensor?



WARNING:

Alarms C2, C6 and C7 lock the boiler temperature control.

Alarms C3, C4 and C5 lock the tank temperature control.

In the case of alarms C6 and C7, the boiler waiting phase is not executed (the rinse may be performed

with cold water) and, during the initial warm-up and subsequent rinses ( btF > 0 ), the boiler heating

phase is not executed.

In the case of an open probe error ( C4, C6 e C10 ), the displayed temperature is 10°C

In the case of a shorted probe error ( C5,C7 e C11 ) , the displayed temperature is 99°C.



E1 Communication error

Is the connection between main board and control panel correct? Are the connectors correctly

connected?

Are connector contacts clean?

E2 Tank temperature low

Does the tank heating element work properly?

Are the connectors correctly connected?

Are the dishwasher feed voltage and current correct?

Is the relay RL4 (see electrical wiring diagram - RL4 relay of AP2 board) on the board disconnected

or faulty?

E3 Boiler temperature low

Does/do the boiler heating element/s work properly?

Are the connectors correctly connected?

Does the possible remote control switch connected to the heating element work correctly?

Is there power at the remote control switch input terminals?

Do boiler relays (see electrical wiring diagram - RL1/ RL2/ RL3 relays of AP2 board) work properly?



CAUTION: IF THERE IS A MALFUNCTION ON RELAY RL1 AND THE BOILER HEATING ELEMENTS

ARE FED BY MEANS OF A REMOTE CONTROL SWITCH, THE BOARD DOES NOT

HAVE TO BE REPLACED; JUST MOVE THE BOILER HEATING ELEMENT CONNECTOR TO

ONE OF THE TWO FREE POSITIONS ON THE BOARD.

CAUTION: WHEN ONE BRANCH OF THE HEATING ELEMENT DOES NOT WORK AND THE

OTHER TWO CONTINUE TO FUNCTION, ON REACHING THE SET TEMPERATURE VALUE,

ALARM 3 DISAPPEARS AND REAPPEARS IN THE SUBSEQUENT RINSE PHASE. THIS

ALSO OCCURS WHEN A PHASE IS MISSING.



Dado

Sep 01, 2014 | Zanussi Dishwashers

1 Answer

Wickes 102 combi boiler constantly loosing water pressure


It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

Feb 02, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Loss of pressure in boiler, no obvious leaks, water pressure switch changed plus pressure release valve


Check that your make up water is on.

Make sure your fill valve is working but it sounds like it is not. Your min pressure should be 15 psig. on the boiler. Fill valve will maintain a15 psig on the boiler. Water and pressure does get out of the boiler when radiators are bleed. When fill valve is not working people will keep bleeding the radiators trying to get heat but only lowering the boiler pressure with no water make up.

Make sure your boiler is getting water and has pressure when running.

If it isn't...SHUT DOWN and have a professional look at it.

Pressure relief valve is factory set ta 30 psig and opens when pressure is above 30 psig. This is a safety valve.

Feb 17, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

My pressure is low on my halstead eden cbx24 boiler, i can find the loop to fill it up but dont know where to put the water in, can anyone help?


Do you have a sight glass that shows water level in boiler on this loop? If so is it marked where normal water level is supposed to be? There should be a water line connected to boiler with a valve on it. This will be a manually operated valve unless it has auto fill control. Locate this valve and slowly add water until level in sight glass is back where it should be,then shut valve.While you are doing this the boiler should be at operating temperature because hot water expands and you don't want to overfill. There should be a temperature and pressure relief valve on top of your boiler to prevent unsafe conditions but I wouldn't count on it working properly if it is very old. My main concern is for your safety so if you are unsure of something don't do it. If your boiler has a automatic water make-up on it then you need to have a service tech. find out if it's not working,and repair or replace it. I hope this helps you. Thanks

Nov 24, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

How do you fill a slant fin boiler


The boiler should have a make-up water connection from the home cold water supply line. Depending on when it was installed it will have a back flow preventer in line before the pressure reducing valve. The pressure reducing valve is designed to fill the boiler if the water pressure in the boiler falls below a specific set point, usually 12-15 pounds. I will be piped to the return side of the boiler in most cases. If the boiler is not filling the PRV could be defective, or depending on the specific controls, there could be a low water float assembly, either electronic or mechanical that activates a control valve to fill the boiler and that may be either stuck or defective. Boilers should be properly maintained at a minimum of every other year, once a year is best to ensure that you get 25+ years of operation from them.

Sep 15, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I have a vitodens 100-w combi boiler and tried to turn the heating on just to give it a working as was advised. However, I have no heat coming to my radiators. The boilers seems to be working as my hot...


Here's the deal: If your Vitodens 100 has outdoor temperature sensing capability, either built in or via external aftermarket control such as Tekmar or other, and the temperature outside is above warm weather shut down (WWSD), then the boiler will not operate for space heating, but will operate to make Domestic Hot Water (DHW) only. Generally speaking WWSD is facoty set at 20*C, since this is normal room temperature so the boiler will not need to operate at temperatures above this number as it is warm enough outdoors to heat the house to comfortable levels.
If your Vitodens 100 does not have outdoor temperature sensing capability then you should check to see if your room thermostats are operational and calling for heat since the boiler is only responding to this on-off control based on room temperature. (turn up your room thermostats)
In both cases you need to make sure that your heating system's distribution pump and zone valves are operating correctly.
In any case you should be calling a heating contractor if you suspect that there is a problem with your boiler and/or heating system.
Good luck.

Aug 07, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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