Question about Heating & Cooling
I know to connect the 240v wires to H1 & H2...and I know to connect the 120v wires to X4 & X3...Am I going to use the transformer in series or parallel...when I connect the 240v wires to the transformer and when I connect the 120v wires to the transfer...Further, will the X3 connects be my com/nev. wire when I connect it to the 120v outlet for my air cleaner...I hope this makes since to someone...there were no instruction in my trasformer box.
You are bucking voltage down to 120 volt from 240 volt using a transformer.
You are connecting one hot leg of 240 volt to H1 and one hot leg to H2.
Suggest you add jumper wire from H1 to H3, and another jumper from H4 to H2. This will give power to primary coil.
You are connecting 120 volt to X4 and X3.
Suggest you add jumper wire from X1 to X3, and another jumper from X4 to X2. This will give you 120V from the secondary coil.
See same instructions on following link:
Water Heater Timers Save Money
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
Testimonial: "Thank you Mr. Haynes...that tells me how to connect the transformer...But what do I do a bout at Nev. wire...there is not one to the furnace, and I will need one for the electric air filter...If I must run a nev. wire from main panelboard. Is there some reason I must take power from the furnace...I am using the com wire from the blower to active the #51 Relay. which tell the air filter to come on and off the same times as the fan. If I am going to run a nev. wire to the air cleaner, why not just run a new 120v circuit to the air cleaner and still let the #51 relay turn the air cleaner on the air cleaner using the com wire from the fan to operate the relay...is there some reason I MUST get the power from the 240v furnace, if I'm using the common wire from the fan to operate the relay...thanks again"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You need to connect one wire from each cable to one of the com terminals. The other wire from each cable has to connect to a tap terminal. The tap terminal you use will depend how many lights and the length of the cable. For short cable runs like 25' use tap 1 50' tap 2 100' tap 3 more than 100' tap 4. you may need to connect all three cables to the same tap terminal. If you turn it on and one string of lights is dimmer than the others move the tap connection from that wire to a higher number. The tap terminals send out a little higher voltage the higher the tap number. The obect is to get the same light output of each light compensating for the voltage drop of the cable. This is a lot of info so I hope this answers your question. If you need more help let me know.
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
Take one cable to the x-former to the 4 sets, then Splice all the wires (5 in one nut and 5 in the other) together. Then connect the one set at the x-former. Don't worry too much about the 10 ft issue. It will work fine.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
yes u will, but u will have to make sure one of the motor wires are hooked up that way also, in case it has been moved, here is a link with the diagram u need
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
SOURCE: How to wire to attic fan?
OK, your new switch will require the use of a neutral wire. So you will have to do what is called a pigtail. You will have to twist another white wire in with your other white wires to attach your neutrals to your switch. Note: white wires are called neutral not common. Hook the wires that were originally hooked up to your LINE to your HOT (Black) on your new timer, and the what was originally LOAD up to the new timer LOAD. SO as far as wiring all that will change is your white wires that need to attach to your timer NEUTRAL.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
What you are describing is a wall electrical box for a "Wwitch Loop". What this means is that the power source (Hot and Neutral) go to the light first. What the electrician has done is run a wire from the light in which one wire is the hot leg from the source and the other one is the "switched leg" which runs back to the light as controled on-off power to it. The only legitimate way to use this timer would be to replace the wire from the wall switch to the light with a 3 conductor cable (3 current carrying wires and a bare ground or green wire). This would allow you to bring the hot and neutral along with the controlled "switched leg" as this time requires a constant source of power for the timer itself. Don't be tempted to let someone tell you to use the ground wire as a neutral. It is not safe to do that.
Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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