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How Do I take apart the dryer

I've tried to take it apart but couldn't find how

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Go to and watch the video.

Posted on Nov 23, 2014

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You gonna need to take the drye apart and put the heater pan back in place. If you try and operate it now you gonna mess up the heater. My heater replacement video shows how:

Here is my page which shows Frigidaire dryer repair videos.

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If the dryer runs the same as before except it will not get hot then check your heating element that is more than likely your problem.

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I'm not familiar with this particular dryer. However, I've worked on another dryer with a similar problem. That dryer had a problem with its thermostat. It failed in an open circuit condition. That means it couldn't pass current to the heater, but everything else worked. I replaced the thermostat and it fixed the problem. Here's a link to a web page where I found a thermostat for your dryer so you could see what it looks like and how much it costs. You may have to page down to get to the thermostat.

If you want to verify the thermostat is bad before you buy a new one you could short it out and see if the dryer gets hot. If you do this, just try it out for a minute or two. Don't let the dryer run for a full cycle or it will overheat and that could be very bad.

I hope this advice helps you out.

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I've spent hours trying to reset my netbooks bios

Hi manuleka...

You have just about done it all...
I found this on youtube that you might be interested to flash the bios without taking the machine apart, but it involves a "donation"...check it out maybe it will be worth it to you.
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I have a loose power port on my Acer Aspire 9300-5349 laptop. How do I take this apart to fix it ? Is there a video to watch the disassembly??

I had the same issue and took it in to a tech because I couldn't get it apart. They said it would be $150 for the replacement part plus shipping and labor would end up being around $300. I ended up buying a new laptop. I had a friend try to take it apart who builds computers. He couldn't do it either. I would take it in. Maybe you'll find a better deal than I did.

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If happens you already replace the card and still doing same thing, It only means that the slot for the card is faulty, Its already a motherboard problem. But try updating the BIOS and see if its going to fix the problem, if not its the motherboard that have a problem.

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When I turn the Dryer on there is the letters AF start flashing it is running and drys the close but it takes a lot longer than it did when I got it.

I've seen the AF code twice now on my Whirlpool Cabriolet Dryer (wed6400sw1). The first time, we thought it stood for "Auto Fluff", a cycle to keep the clothes wrinkle free...We soon realized the dryer was getting a lot hotter than it ever did before and until I checked the vent stack from the roof, I had no idea that the pipe was blocked with a build-up of lint. I cleaned the pipe from top to bottom by taking it apart wherever I could using a vacuum and every hose extension I could get my hands on. I duct taped these together so I didn't drop it somewhere that I couldn't reach!

The second time we saw the AF code was this weekend. First, I verified the vent pipe was not clogged again. (a good quick test for this is to disconnect it from the back of the dryer and run it unconnected to see if the AF code fires) After some online research, I started taking it apart the back to maybe replace the thermistor or the thermal fuse shown above.

I noticed an odd little piece of ceramic tubing had fallen down to the base of the dryer pan. So I decided to take the heater core apart to have a look. Sure enough, I found my problem. My dryer has two separate groups of springy looking heater wire. You can see that part here as well as the little tube I found. It turns out that ceramic tube is an insulator allowing for the two heating elements to exist without touching since they are both powered from the same starting wire point.

Well, my AF code (which is really just telling you the dryer is getting too hot) was being created due to a broken wire which caused the two units to fuse together. It must have been getting really hot. It also had welded itself to the metal backing structure.

I carefully removed the broken wires from the heater element and reassembled to test. Sure enough, it works good again and no AF code, but I bet it doesn't heat as much since I removed one half of the element. I'm going to pick up a replacement heater element tomorrow from the local parts store to restore it like new.

Hope this helps someone!

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