Question about Maytag Ovens
During a self cleaning the oven stops working. Now it is inop.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
tde, sounds like your thermal fuse (TC0) opened on the back side of the oven. If this opens, it will shut the oven down. This happens alot during self cleaning on built ins. Sometimes I have to re-route the tco to a different area to prevent this from happening. Your part number is 4451442. You will have to pull the oven out far enough to remove the back paneling and replace the fuse....Catriver..post back.
Posted on Oct 25, 2006
SOURCE: Whirlpool Double over
big dib, the TC0, ( thermal cut out) probably has opened. This is non resetable. To get at it you have to pull the oven out to a point where you can get at the back. Then you have to remove the oven back panel and there is the TCO. Part number 4450249. You can verify this by ohming out the TC0, if it shows open (no continuity) it's bad. I have done a number of these and it takes two people to repair it safely. Kill the breaker when going in there. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Dec 30, 2006
SOURCE: oven won't heat
Unplug the power cord for thirty minutes, this should reset the oven.
If this still does not work do the following:
Press clean and then cancel. This will reset the appliance.
If the error does not clear , then during the self cleaning cycle, the high temperature has probably damaged the temperature sensor probe, and it must be replaced.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
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