The left pedal keeps falling off. I use a wrench to reattach it and tighten it down, and then within five minutes of starting to use it, it starts to loosen and eventually (20 minutes or so) falls of
The left pedal keeps falling off. I use a wrench to reattach it and tighten it down, and then within five minutes of starting to use it, it starts to loosen and eventually (20 minutes or so) falls off. Any idea how I can get it to stay on?
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1Lift the CBR onto its center stand. Unlock the seat latch
with the ignition key and remove the seat. Remove the clip screws from
the top portion of both seat rail covers, positioned below the fuel tank
and the seat, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the seat rail covers
away from the motorcycle's frame.
2Remove both bolts from the front of the fuel tank, using a
socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and prop it open
using the support rod on the motorcycle's frame. Reach under the tank
and unplug the fuel pump's wiring connector and all three hoses from the
bottom of the tank. Take note of hoses' locations before removing them
for reinstallation purposes. Pull the hairpin clip out from the support
rod's base. Unscrew the pivot bolt from the base of the fuel tank, using
a 10 mm socket. Lift the fuel tank off of the motorcycle.
3Unscrew the air box's mounting bolt from the frame's right
seat rail, using a 10 mm socket. Loosen the clamps securing the air
box's flanges to the carburetors' inlets, using a Phillips screwdriver.
Pull the air box towards the rear of the motorcycle to separate its
flanges from the carburetors.
4Loosen the clamps securing the carburetors to the motor's
intake manifolds, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the carburetors off
of the motor and out through the left side of the motorcycle's frame.
The carburetors will still be attached to the motorcycle by its throttle
and choke cables. Loosen the choke and throttle cables' lock nuts,
using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the cables.
5Hold the carburetors over a large container. Unscrew the
drain screws on the side of each carburetor's float bowl, positioned at
the very bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. Allow
the fuel trapped within the float bowl to drain completely, then tighten
the drain screws.
6Flip the carburetor over, with the float bowls up, and place
it on a clear work space. Unscrew the bolts from the float bowls, using
a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the float bowls and their gaskets
away from the carburetors.
7Unscrew the pilot jet from each carburetor, using a
flat-head screwdriver. The pilot jet is placed to the left (with the
carburetor facing you) of the main jet in the center of the carburetor.
Screw a new pilot jet into place with a flat-head screwdriver.
8Reinstall the float bowls and their gaskets onto the
carburetors. Tighten the float bowls' screws with a Phillips
screwdriver. Reattach the throttle and clutch cables to the carburetors
and tighten the cables' lock nuts with a 10 mm wrench. Slide the
carburetors through the left side of the frame. Push the carburetors
into the motor's intake manifolds. Tighten the intake manifolds' clamps
with a Phillips screwdriver.
9Pull the air box against the carburetors and push the air
box's flanges over the carburetors' inlets. Tighten the flanges' clamps
with a Phillips screwdriver. Screw the air box's mounting bolt onto the
frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket.
10Lay the fuel tank onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert the
tank's pivot bolt through the hinge at the base of the tank. Screw the
pivot bolt's nut into place, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and
reattach the tank support rod to the motorcycle's frame. Insert the
hairpin clip into the support rod's base. Prop the tank up on the
support rod. Plug the wiring connector into the fuel pump and reconnect
all three hoses onto the bottom of the tank. Screw both mounting bolts
onto the front of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket.
11Mount the seat rail covers onto the motorcycle's frame.
Insert and tighten the covers' clip screws, using a Phillips
screwdriver. Lay the seat onto the seat rails, then press the rear of
the seat down until the seat latch locks into place.
Park the motorcycle on its center stand. Remove the spark
plug-wire cap from the plug by hand. Loosen and remove the spark plug
from the cylinder head with a spark plug wrench.
Gap the spark plug to 0.026 inches with a spark plug gap
gauge. Reinstall the plug tightly in the cylinder head with the plug
wrench. Reattach the plug-wire cap by hand.
Detach the wire lead at the fuel sensor on the right side of
the cylinder head by hand. Loosen and remove the sensor with a metric
wrench. Clean the inner end of the sensor with spray cleaner. Reinstall
the sensor securely with the wrench. Reattach the wire lead.
Detach the wire lead at the exhaust sensor at the underside
of the muffler by hand. Loosen and remove the sensor with the metric
wrench. Clean the inner end of the sensor with spray cleaner and
reinstall the sensor securely. Reattach the wire lead.
Throttle and Carburetor
Take a position where you can observe the throttle linkage
at the left side of the carburetor. Twist the throttle grip at the
handlebars slowly as you observe the action of the linkage.
Tighten the cable adjuster at the top of the carburetor with
a metric wrench in small increments so the linkage responds immediately
as you open the throttle.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up for three minutes.
Locate the smaller idle-adjustment screw and the larger fuel-air
adjustment screw at the right side of the carburetor. Turn the
idle-adjustment screw to the right one full turn with a screwdriver.
Turn the fuel-air adjustment screw to the right or left with
a screwdriver as you listen to the engine's speed. Turning it too far
either way slows the engine's speed. Find the point where the engine
idles at the fastest speed.
Allow the engine to idle. Turn the idle-adjustment screw to the left one full turn.
Detachthe ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine greaseover the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.2 Removethe bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from thearms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms.On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals tothe arms.3 Removethe bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach theswing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over theaxles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.
Open the hoodto access the engine compartment. Unscrew the battery cables from the batteryterminals with a socket wrench.
Locate thealternator on the front of the engine. The engine is side-mounted so thealternator will be pointing towards the passenger's side fender on the top leftcorner. Then locate the tensioner pulley under the alternator.
Insert a baresocket into the square hole on the tensioner pulley. Loosen the tensionerpulley with the socket wrench by pushing the tensioner down to loosen the belt.Remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
Disconnect thewiring at the top of the alternator by pulling off the harness. The remainingwiring will be attached to a stud. Unscrew the stud with a socket wrench thenpull off the wiring.
Unscrew thethree bolts with a socket wrench that secure the alternator to the mountingbracket. There is one bolt on top, one on the bottom and one on the right-handside of the alternator. Pull the alternator out of the mounting bracket.
Position thenew alternator into the mounting bracket. Start threading the three bolts byhand. Tighten the bolts with the socket wrench once all the bolts are started.
Push theboot-shaped wiring harness onto the new alternator. It will lock into placewith a click. Unscrew the nut on the stud with the socket wrench then place theremaining wiring lead onto the stud. Tighten the nut over the wiring with thesocket wrench.
Loosen thetensioner pulley by pushing it down with the bare socket wrench. Place the beltover the alternator pulley then release the socket wrench. The tensioner willautomatically tighten the belt.
Connect thepositive and negative cables on the battery. Tighten the cables with the socketwrench.
Start the carto test the new alternator. Allow the car to run for five to 10 minutes. Shutthe car off and let it sit for an hour. Attempt to start the car. If the carstarts, then the alternator is working correctly. Close the hood when done.
You have to have a pedal wrench and they pedals have a right thread right side and a left thread the left side. The right side is the chain side, to tighten either one, you put the bike in front of you and turn the pedal wrench towards you to tighten, to loosen turn the wrench to the rear. This is very important, do it wrong and you strip your crank arms. Pedals are marked R for right side, L for left side. It is important to know this information. Most manuals do not tell you.
you rally should have two people one to operate pedal open a bleeder screw start at left rear have them push the pedal down and hold it tighten bleeder repeat 4 -5 times unless there is air then go til just fluid comes out then go to right rear right front then left front
We had the same problem with the right pedal continually falling off. I purchased some "J.B. Weld" from Ace Hardware, applied it to the stud on the pedal, re-tightened it back on the sprocket arm and let it set 24 hours. This was over a month ago and it has not come off or loose. It gets peddled pretty furiously at times and still holds. The cost of the J.B. Weld which is in two small tubes, mixed together and applied is less than $7.00. I am once again my Grand-daughters hero....