Question about Heating & Cooling
I thought with past furnaces I have had when they ignite you see the flame if you bend down and look inside furnace.Had a maintainance guy replace igniter and sensor. After he left I looked for the flame and only see flame shooting toward back of unit?Is this correct?
It sounds like he incorrectly installed the igniter and it may be a huge danger to your home. A incorrectly installed igniter can cause a excess build up of gas and blow back flame or worst blow up your house. Only have a licensed heating and cooling contractor work on your furnace and not a handy man.
Posted on Nov 22, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Flame Adjustment
Make sure the unit is operating on the correct gas, Natural or Propane (LP). The sound you are experiencing is either not enough gas and the flame is burning inside the burner port(s) or too much gas and the flame is much larger than it has to be. At any rate, get a technician to check the gas pressure entering into the home. NOW!
Posted on Sep 18, 2007
There is a vacuum sensor on most units tied from the exhaust gas fan to the sensor. Does the unit try to start? If the unit's exhaust fails to pull the switch it will turn off after about 30-45 sec after starting. "IT" thinks it's not exhausting and stops to keep from overheating. Do you have this exhaust fan and rubber hose to sensor? Can you see if that fan is turning on start?
Posted on Nov 10, 2007
if you have replaced the flame sensor and it will not stay lit, the draft safety switch may be opening. It works on positive and negative pressure created by the inducer fan motor.You may have a restriction in your heat exchanger or if is a high efficiency furnace, it may not have the drain tube installed properly with a trap. The trap works just like the trap under your sink and if water isnt in the trap, the pressures can be effected enough to open the draft switch(some call it an air pressure switch)
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
Check to see if the blower motor is actually getting power to it...You will have to check for power on the heating speed terminal... and the neutral wires....you should have 120v across those two wires....
If you have power then the motor is bad...if no power then the heating relay went bad on the circuit board and you will have to replace the circuit board...
That is a common problem as those relays are often to light and wear out...
Just realize that without an electrical meter to trace things through you are really just grabbing at possibilities and not really able to correctly diagnose your problem...
Posted on Dec 08, 2010
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