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Re: I have century wood stove , how do I keep the seal on...
You need Gasketing Sealant and Stove Sealer which is a Red Devil product. Good for 2,000 degrees. Don't buy the cheap stuff, read the lable, as some is only good to 550 degrees and will deteriorate rapidly and fall out.
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by C Care - Cited by 2 - Related articles
your fireplace heater, please contact Crane. Customer ... This instruction manualapplies to the following models of the Fireplace Heaters product line: Color.
Go to the local hardware, Lowe's or Home Depot and look for a product called "Gasketing Cement and Stove Sealer". Meeco's Red Devil is one manufacturer of the product. It withstands temps up to 2000 degrees. Cut the tip and run a moderate sized bead in the groove of the door or the front of the stove. Place the pre-cut NEW non-asbestos gasket in place and tamp it in lightly with your fingers. Then close the door to mold the gasket to the surface and don't disturb it until the sealant cures....ususally onernight or a full day while you are at work. Do not have a fire in the stove at the time.
How to light a wood stove fire Stove Help & Advice Home
There are many ways to light a fire in a wood stove. There is no one right way to do it and I am sure that all the stove owners out there will have their own individual ways of lighting fires that have developed over the years.
This is one way to light a woodburner. Ensure that the stove firebox is not full of ash - remove ash if necessary using a suitable metal container. If the stove is a multifuel stove where the only air supply is from beneath the stove grate then you will need to make sure that the grate is clear from ash and that the ashpan is empty (or at least that the ash in the ashpan is not obstructing the air flow to the fire).
Open the bottom air vents of the stove and open the flue damper if you have one. Some people use firelighters but personally I think that they smell bad and are uneccessary.
Start with some pieces of newspaper and scrunch them into loose balls. Some people tie them into knots or other shapes which is fine as well. I have tried this and it takes much longer than just scrunching the paper into balls. I use about 8 full sheets of newspaper to light the fire. It is possible to use much less paper, but if there is no need to conserve your newspaper supply then my opinion is that you might as well be assured that the fire will light by using a little bit extra. Pile the balls of newspaper in the centre of the firebox. Get some kindling. If you do not have some already prepared then use dry seasoned pieces of firewood. Softwoods or light hardwoods are best so pine, beech, or ash would be fine. Use a hatchet to chop the wood into some small pieces roughly 10mm square. The sizes do not have to be very precise and I would not recommend measuring each bit! Lay around 6 small pieces on top of the newspaper in different directions - rather like the game pickup sticks. The idea is that air and flames should be able to get to each piece of wood. Now lay a few larger 30mm and 40mm square pieces on top.
Light the newspaper in a couple of places at the bottom and when they are going close the door of the stove.
Once the wood has caught alight and the fire is going well inside the stove you can put some larger pieces of wood into the firebox. Place them gently on top of the fire. Do not fill the firebox with wood - I would recommend burning around 3-4 large pieces of wood at a time. At this stage you can turn the air supply down a little but aim to maintain good flames whilst not letting the fire smoulder.
If you have air vents at the top of the stove then close down the air vents at the bottom and open those at the top. You may need to do this gradually as the fire develops.
A novel way of lighting a fire is in a top-down direction. You start with the bigger pieces of wood, then on top of them put the smaller pieces of kindling and on top of that lay some newspaper balls. Everything is done in the same way as in the bottom-up method discussed above but just in reverse order. Light the newspaper and the fire will work it's way down. Surprisingly this is a remarkably good way of lighting a fire - why not give it a try.
If you are still having troubles lighting your fire, you can always purchase a Phoenix firelighter. No newspaper or kindling is required and can have your stove roaring away in 2 minutes. The Phoenix Firelighter has revolutionised lighting of solid fuel fires whether it be wood for coal and only costs 1p per fire.
Things not to do
Do not use paraffin, ethanol, petrol or similar to help you light a stove. Here is an article about someone who did Do not leave the stove unattended whilst it is being lit, especially if you have cracked the door or ash pan open to give it that little boost of air.
Build small, hot fires instead of large, smoldering ones.
Don't "bed the fire down" for the night. Holding a fire overnight is
a fire hazard and can create serious indoor and outdoor air
Open your damper if the smoke is dark. Dark smoke indicates more
pollution is being produced and fuel is being wasted.
Keep your stove clean and well-maintained. Follow manufacturer
guidelines; replace catalytic stove filters every 1-4 years. Have
your chimney checked and cleaned at least once a year.
Use seasoned wood
The best fuel for woodstoves is dry, "seasoned" wood. Seasoned wood
has a moisture content of about 20% or less. It tends to be dark in
color, cracked on the ends, light in weight and has bark that is easily
broken or peeled. Here are some tips for preparing seasoned wood:
Split the wood to help it dry. Wood will dry out more
quickly and burn best if the wood is cut to about 3 1/2 inches to 6
inches in diameter.
Cover the split firewood to protect it from the weather
and stack it loosely in alternating layers, at least 6 inches off
Time must be given to allow the wood to reach 20% or less
moisture required for seasoned wood. This process takes
approximately 6-12 months. Think ahead and buy next winter's wood
well in advance.
It is recommended an annual chimney cleaning to remove creosote build up
and to identify potential problems. Things to consider:
The Chimney cap may be plugged by debris.
Catalytic combustor and baffles are exposed to very high heat
and deteriorate as used. Replace every 1-4 years depending on use.
Stovepipe angles and bolts are subject to corrosion.
Gaskets on airtight stove doors need replacement every few
years. Gaskets and seals are used by the appliance designer to
control the location and flow of air into the appliance.
Check seams on stoves sealed with furnace cement. Seams may leak
and cause you to loose valuable heat and reduce the efficiency of
Replace broken or missing firebricks.
Keep the floor of your stove clean of debris and ash.
There are many types of seals that can be used which are universal and not specific. You must check with the Kitchen appliances spare parts dealer for assistance. Take along the sample of the gasket to get a look alike type.
Also there are many available in shops that sell penumatic tubings specially silicon gaskets. Only the groove need to match with the heat resistance characteristics.
air is still getting in from somewhere when you shut all the dampers and doors. door seals if fitted may not be sealing. if you have only tryed wood as a fuel try coal to see if it stays in. but air feeding the fire is the problem
Buy a dowel pin the size of the hole in the cabnet then use carpenters glue to glue the dowel pin in place where the old hole was make sure it is a good tight fit. Next saw off the dowel pin and let set over night then drill a strating hole in the dowel pin and reinstall the door works like a chanp. Hope this helps.