Question about Ovens

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Dont have oven service manual eb965611-01 to distinguish terminal lead hook up for broil element

Broil element terminal 4 prong plus ground (--=--) connections for 240/120 connection

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  • kilr69
    kilr69 Nov 28, 2014

    tribles has a wide variety of elements nore if open today

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  • 47 Answers

Unplug power. open oven door. unod screws holding element in place. pull straight to you. unplug and remember color cod to each terminal or place new element right under old one and replace it wire for wire. if not able to do that either write down or take photo of wiring.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

  • rob Golic
    rob Golic Nov 27, 2014

    Thanks... Unfortunately the all the wires were not marked and the rear panel was not removed upon removing element and leads were lost. The element was pulled out... There are two sets 2 white 2 red. The white wires(looking from the rear of unit panel off) from right to left

    --_--

    So 5 terminal middle ground.

    Right to left

    T1white wire this wire was the only one identified
    T2(unidentified red)
    T3 ground
    T4(white wire guessing here assuming installed as mirror of T1)
    T5(unidentified red)

    There was a serious spark when the old element blew and... Convection works but no power to broil or bottom element. I'm assuming the something in the electronic board is gone due I the surge of the element grounding out as the oven breaker never tripped.. And I'm not recieving any voltage to any of the elements and am unsure if the terminal connection of te broil element... Thanks for any help

    Might you know where I could find a replacement board and how much?

    Gaggenau Eb965611/01

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Faulty bake or broil element

You will need a T20 screwdriver (star shaped) to remove the back plate on the electric oven

Posted on Dec 29, 2006

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: fridgiaire Gallery series Model GLEB30T8CBA lower elements dont work

I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.

318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer
318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer

Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.

The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.

To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.

NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.

Posted on May 13, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Admiral Clean-O-Matic oven: Power cord black red white ground?

Your terminal block has been by-passed .
Hook your black cord wire to the black screw on the terminal block.
Hook your white wire to the white screw on the terminal block. Hook the bare ground to the exterior ground screw.
The 2 wires that are wire-nutted together will have to hook to the red wire on the cord.(they originally went to the third connection on the terminal).
You will probably have to cut and strip the red cord wire and attach it with the 2 wire-nutted connections.

Posted on May 24, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: replacing electrolux eob944 fan oven grill element

...If you can help me to remove the grill element from my EOB944, I will be able to tell you the wirings.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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2 Answers

Inginator lightrs but oven does not heat


If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Feb 27, 2014 | Frigidaire FEB27S5A Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Broil element won't come on.


1. Cut power to the stove by unplugging or switching off at the mains.
2. Remove broil element and inspect for burnt or melted places, if you have multimeter, then check it for continuity, it shouldn't have more than about10 ohms resistance. Burnt-out element is easily replaced.
3. If element is good, then check for voltage at element terminals, it should be 220 volt AC ( with caution, after turning power back on and setting oven to broil).
4. If all above checks out, then the problem will require disassembling the appliance to investigate thermostat issues, relay, etc. It would be at this point that I would strongly consider putting in a service call!

Mar 25, 2012 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

My Oven does not turn on but the broiler does. The stove top works as well and it will clean. Its only the oven that does not work, but again it will broil.


It appears your element has failed in this instance.



This advice is on how to replace a bad element on kitchen ranges that utilize ELECTRIC heating elements for baking and broiling.
1. UNPLUG the range and remove the rear panel. Dangerous voltages are still present with the range turned off. The rear panel is in close proximity to the input power terminal block & shock hazard and/or equipment hazard can exist. Remove the series of screws around the perimeter of the panel.
2. Locate and disconnect the terminal lead wires from the element. Color coding may differ between manufacturers, so make sure you mark or label the wires as you remove them. If replacing both elements, do so one at a time to avoid confusion.
3. Open the oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner's manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. This can cause damage to the door hinges or cause the hinge springs to come loose.
4. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan (if required - some elements are fully exposed, some have pan covers). There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place.
5. The element will be mounted directly to the back of the oven wall, and/or to the bottom/top of the oven wall. Remove the mounting screws and remove old element from oven.
6. Install new element by carefully feeding the terminal leads through the oven wall first. Reinsert all mounting screws.
7. From the back of the range, reconnect the terminal wires.
8. Plug range in, turn oven/boiler on, and perform a visual test of the heating element to ensure it is working properly. Turn oven/broiler off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been on for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief. NOTE: Stand clear of any exposed wiring with rear panel removed.
9. UNPLUG range once again and re-install rear panel ensuring the terminal wires are NOT touching the panel.
10. Reinstall the oven pan and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.
NOTES: Prices vary between models and manufacturers, but most elements are in the $20-$40 range. There is a difference between the BROIL and BAKE elements in that they are usually different wattage ratings and are shaped differently. They should not be considered interchangeable.


For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Sep 26, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Frigidaire GLEB30S8CSB- the broiler doesn't work, all other functions are normal. What do I need to look at? Many thanks...


Unplug the oven.
Remove the oven racks.
Remove the bake element.
Be careful and not let the wires fall back into the holes when you remove them from the element.
Use a volt/ohm meter set for ohms or continuity to check the broil element terminals.
No reading is a bad element. If no reading replace the element.
If the element is good the control panel will have to be opened to check for power from the electronic control to the element.
Re-attach the broil element.
Access the control module for testing.
At this point you will be working with live high voltage.
Turn the power back on.
If you are not comfortable with that please call a service technician.
If you want to do it,locate the broil out put wire and the neutral wire on the control. Set the control for broil,place your meter leads on broil and "N".
No reading is a bad control module.
A good voltage reading will be a bad wire to the broil element.

Mar 11, 2010 | Frigidaire GLEB30S8A Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Jenn-air ww30430w dual oven, lower oven, lower element not heating, upper broil element working fine


Most likely a bad element. Turn off the power to the oven. Remove the racks.
Use a phillips screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the mounting screws at the back of the oven cavity to remove the element. Carefully pull the element out and remove the wires. Do not let the wires fall back into the holes.

Use a volt meter set for continuity. Touch one meter lead to one terminal on the element. Touch the other meter lead to the other terminal. If you get NO reading the element is bad.

A new element will correct your problem.

If the element reads as good you have a wiring problem or a bad control.

Jan 03, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Cleaned oven, now baking element not working-element is good-buzz


This F-3 is concerning a Open oven temperature sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven temperature sensor. Could be a result of:
· contamination on terminals
· pinched wire in oven temperature sensor circuit
· cold solder joint on control.

Solution--
· Disconnect power to range and remove oven temperature sensor connector from control.
· Measure oven temperature sensor resistance at oven temperature sensor connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72 degrees F).
· Measure each oven temperature sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor circuit.
· Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace.
If all above is ok replace control.

Jun 16, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Broiler won't turn off even after unplugging and plugging back in.


Check to make sure your broil element is not grounding out causing the element to always stay on when power is applied.

You would need to turn off your house breaker to your oven and check for continuity with an ohm meter between each of your 2 broil element terminals and ground.

Apr 26, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

2 Answers

BROIL ELEMENT DOES NOT HEAT


If it is only the broil that is not working the the problem is more than likely the main board, the thermal fuse and double line break relays will affect all the elements in the oven in question. Due be careful the likely hood that you have no voltage at your element is not very good. If you have the terminals connected to the element you are probably reading a zero potential, try measuring from terminal to chasis ground should get 120v. on the main control looks like k-9 for the upper broil and k-13 for the lower broil relays

Jan 17, 2008 | Thermador C302U Electric Double Oven

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