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The cold water pressure has dropped away from our shower. There is no change to the cold water at any of the other cold water outlets. The header tank is full and the cold water take is from midway of

Checked to see that the ball **** has not sunk in the hot water header tank supply which also supplies the cold water to the shower

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: cold water suply filling up header tank in loft thru hot water suply on shower.

hi did you run a seperate cold water supply from the storage tank to the shower pump & also a seperate hot supply from the hot water cylinder, it sounds as though the cold water is crossing into the hot service & pushing its way up to the tank as its the only way it can go, sounds as though the cold water connection to the shower is not tank fed & possibly directly off the water main.?

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Shower goes hot and cold

If you are having trouble only at the one fixture (shower), and no where else, the problem is most likely in the shower valve...which either needs new cartridges, or a complete replacement.
hope this helps

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

dragonsthatk
  • 547 Answers

SOURCE: Not enough hot water, has to do with a shower valve

take off handle (screw under cap) there is a plastic peice behind for ajustment if you move it one way it allows more if you move the other way less contact me if you have problems thank you for useing fixya please rate me

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Cold water only from single-arm shower faucet in master bathroom

Yes - This is an easy (though not widely known) diy fix! Remove the cover of the faucet handle (may pop off if crystal type or use a screwdriver to remove the screws) inside there is a scald guard safety mechanism - using a flathead screwdriver, turn the guard some the left. There should be a guide so that you do not turn the water up too hot. If there is not, you may need to consult a plumber or supplier in order to adjust the hot to a moderate temperature.

Hope this helps! ;)

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: i have a shower unit running from my bath taps the

there is an ajustment on most tub and shower valves, remove handle and there is a plastic peice that stops the handle from turning to the hot side to much. try to adjust. you shouldnt have to shut water off to house, but to be safe you might want to.

Posted on Oct 31, 2009

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My current water tank was installed 12 years ago With Bladder. 1 hp motor. 80 gals. Water Pressure is consistantly low. When reset to 40-50 lbs, it drops shortly after back to thirty lbs in the house....


If I understand you, this is a water well. For pressure to drop, water must be going somewhere. If you see no leak in the tank, that is not the problem.
Check all outlets, faucets, toilets, showers, outside faucets, etc. If you see no leaks and the pressure is still dropping, there is a check valve either before the pump or in the well and this could be leaking back. Either way, the pressure should drop to zero unless the pump comes back on.
Gary

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We are a bit confused by the device that you are using to heat the Hot water with- Is it an instantaneous HW heater?--
They are pressure sensitive-- Could it be, that your water pressure drops momentarily, (which causes the instantaneous heater to shut down its flame-- and you get a pulse of Cold water.)

If your hot water is a tank-- It is possible that something is cycling your hot water away-- like rinse pulses on the Washing machine)-- or your dishwasher?

Tell us more about the Rinnal Air Conditioners and what they have to do with Hot water and your SHower?

Tell us more-

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Hot water tank does not work when shower is on, it does however work when the faucet in bathroom is on. It quit working in the shower about a month ago.


  1. COLD MIX, HEATER DEACTIVATES
    If inlet water temperature is over 70°F due to geographic location, water maybe very hot out of the tap. This requires a lot of cold water to be added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition of too much cold water will overpower hot water demand from the tankless water heater. This slows the flow within the tankless water heater, decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the heater. The end result is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH E2-04 Overcoming fluctuating temperatures [PDF].
  2. FLUCTUATING WATER PRESSURE
    If the water pressure in the home is erratic and the water flow is not consistent while a tap is opened, then the temperature of hot water will fluctuate. The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For people on well systems the minimum pressure range is 30-50psi. The use of a pressure reducing/regulating valve is an effective way to maintain constant water pressure to the water heater. Watts brand 25AUB- ¾" or N35B-¾" pressure reducing/regulating valves or equivalent is suggested.
  3. CHANGING FLOW RATE
    Major changes in flow rate can adversely affect the output water temperature of the heater. Increases from one major fixture running to multiple fixtures running at one time can cause the temperature to fluctuate. Stay within the heater's specifications. See: TWH E2-03 Outlet temperature vs. flow rate [PDF].
From the Bosch website.

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When i move shower valve to hot, the water pressure drops. There is more cold water than hot. I have changed my moen valve before and this still happens. Good water any where else in the house including...


probably have a kink on how water line feeding valve..if possible to cut drywall bhind tub valve and inspect pipe at bottom plate...moen faucets are equipped w/ anti scald device, pressure balanced (newer models) and this could cause cold water to overwhelm hot water...

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A plumber has just installed a shower which has uneven water supply pressure. The low pressure hot water from a head tank had a 3/4" pipe supply whichin spite of being questioned the plumber has reduced...


Hello,
You aren't the first to run into this dilemna.

The size of thhe pipe will affect your system in this way.
If you start 85lbs of pressure in the water main, The meterhas a 1" pipe inlet and a 3/4" outlet. The meter reduced thhe pressure to60 psi and then it is reduced again at the point of entering the structure dropping to 1/2" pipe. By resucing the pressure is upped approx 5-7 lbs. The point of regulator and pipe size is the only time the pressure changes. The lowest pressure will drive a rainbird spribkler,actually several. But too many rainbirds won't affect by pressure as much as volume. The pressure will push whatever is available.By reducing the 3/4 to 1/2" didn't affect your pressure as much as it did your volume.. The reason your hot water starts to run cold sooner is that now you do not have the volume ratio between the cold and hot.It 's 1:1 now instead of 1.25:1. Hot more than cold. It takes more hot water to heat cold water than ittakescold to cool hot. Plus, the hot water you use is being replaced by cold water and that water is cooling what hot water is in the tank as the heat moves to the cold. The heater cannot heat al that water fast enough, but the cold water line is happy as can be.No pressure changes and no temperature changes. Before, you had to turn up the cold to bring the temp down to comfortable or safe. I just had my shower redone and everything is the sme size. Here is something to think about. Ck the shower head. They clog up and cause poor mixing over time. Yoou should be ok. How old is the water heater? Over time they get a build up of calcium and lime which is very detrimental to the heaters efficiency and recovery time. I hope this all made sense to you. At times when we have things done right it seems to be wrong because we are accustomed to the way it was. You will get accustomed to it and find your water heater gobbling less energy. Good luck and I hope it all works out, There is no need to fret. Sincerely -Ned-

May 21, 2010 | Home

2 Answers

WATERMILL SHOWER PUMP - On turning on the shower


This sounds like a problem with the flow switch(es) that control the operation of the pump motor.

When the pressure decreases I assume that the pump has switched itself off - check this before going any further, but I will assume that this is the case. (If the pump is still running when the pressure decreases then you have a really strange problem and I would need to think again).

The pump motor is controlled by flow switches on the outlet side of the pump - when the shower valve is opened the flow of water activates a switch that supplies power to the pump motor. There will be one flow switch on the hot outlet from the pump and another on the cold outlet.

I assume that one or both of the flow switches is not operating correctly. This can be either a fault with the switch(es) or insufficient water pressure on the inlet side. Has anything changed that might have reduced the pressure on the inlet side of the pump? Have you moved the water tank that supplies the pump? (cold water storage tank)

If there is adequate pressure on the inlet then one or both of the flow switches is not working correctly. To further diagnose the problem try turning the shower valve to cold water only and test the operation of the pump, then turn it to hottest and test again.

If the pump operates correctly on cold only or hot only then the associated flow switch is OK, and the other one is faulty.

Replacing a flow switch is not difficult if you are reasonably handy, and I am happy to provide further help if you need it.

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When it was installed was there any copper sweating done? If so, the valve cartridge can get fried if not removed prior to the immense heat from a torch.

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First of all, the normal water pressure is anywhere from 50 to 70 lbs. Why do you need a pump? What you need is just water pressure. The shower head will only put out a fraction of that pressure with the valve body inside the head. Since you do not say what water pressure you have, check all the pressure lines to make sure there is no blockage. As for the water tank, well, 50 gallons is always better.

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Runs out of hot water


I wonder if you have this problem below caused by a drop in water pressure from someone flushing a toilet or a washing machine. I would call the company to remedy this issue.

17. What is a cold water sandwich effect? The term “cold water sandwich effect” is a term that is used to describe the introduction of cold water into the hot water supply line during frequent on/off operation of an instantaneous water heater. The cold water sandwich effect, when present, appears as a momentary drop in hot water temperature as it is discharged from a hot water supply outlet (i.e. shower, tub, or faucet). This phenomenon is present in the operation of all instantaneous, tankless style, water heaters, but is minimized with the high tech design of Rinnai water heaters.
The technology built into the Rinnai water heaters is designed to minimize the cold water sandwich effect. Rinnai water heaters are microprocessor controlled and when water flow through them ceases, they remain in a “ready to fire state” for approximately 1 minute. If water flow through a Rinnai water heater begins within the first minute following water flow stoppage, the water heater will fire back up within 1 to 2 seconds. This minimizes the cold water sandwich effect that would otherwise be experienced with a low tech tankless water heater. It should be noted that the cold water sandwich effect cannot be removed completely from tankless style water heaters. The safety standards developed to insure the safe operation of water heaters require a delay in the ignition sequence of all gas water heaters.
While the cold water sandwich effect cannot be completely eliminated from standard plumbing systems, it can be eliminated from plumbing systems that have a supply and return hot water circulating system. Rinnai has developed 2 methods to eliminate the cold water sandwich effect in residential hot water circulating systems.
The first (and preferred) method to remove the cold water sandwich from circulating systems utilizes a small electric tank water heater (powered up) that is used with a dual purpose. The small water heater acts as a mixing tank to eliminate the cold water sandwich effect from the Rinnai water heater and it uses its electric heating element to offset the heat losses from the hot water circulating system.
The second method to remove the cold water sandwich from circulating systems utilizes a small 2 to 6 gallon storage tank installed on the hot water outlet of the Rinnai water heater. This tank acts as a mixing tank to blend the cold water sandwich with hot water and eliminating its effect at fixtures.

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2 Answers

Cold water suply filling up header tank in loft thru hot water suply on shower.


hi did you run a seperate cold water supply from the storage tank to the shower pump & also a seperate hot supply from the hot water cylinder, it sounds as though the cold water is crossing into the hot service & pushing its way up to the tank as its the only way it can go, sounds as though the cold water connection to the shower is not tank fed & possibly directly off the water main.?

Oct 05, 2008 | Home

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