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Hello. What problem are you having specifically to point you towards the gas valve? There is a service flash on the DSI ignition wire harness. The part number needed is W10701462. The symptom is the bake burner will spark but not ignite. A possible cause is the brown ignitor wire has gotten pinched between the side panel and back bulkhead causing intermittent ignition. The gas valve part number is 8054079 and is #15(bottom right) in the exploded diagram if needed. Check the tightness of all wiring connections, make sure the oven door is closing properly( if open, the bake ignition circuit will shut down after 60 seconds). Notice the pictures 3, 4, 5, and 6. They show other problems that can cause the no-ignition issue. Pic 4 gives the proper readings for a correctly functioning gas valve. You will need a voltage/ohm meter--BE CAUTIOUS--POWER WILL BE ON DURING TESTING OF THE VOLTAGE TO THE VALVE! TURN OFF THE POWER AND CAREFULLY REMOVE THE WIRES WHEN CHECKING THE COIL RESISTANCES. I hope I helped you!
This heater has 2 type gas valves one valve has the thermostat built into it. No wiring needed for that puppy. Looks like this:
So I am guessing that one ain't you. Your heater must use a millivolt gas valve with the 2 wire wall thermostat. The pilot generator does 2 things. It holds the pilot on and it produces voltages that operate the solenoid and open and close the valve when the room thermostat makes contacts. So what goes wrong with these? The pilot generator will sometimes hold the pilot flame but whn the 2 wires are touched together or you tun on the wall thermostat the whole thang just dies. That my friend is a weak thermopile generator. The other thang that goes wrong is the solenoid on the gas valve is open and therefore the gas won't come on. Their is also a fuse mounted on there that melts and kills the magnet that the generator holds in for the pilot.
If there is a flame adjustible control knob allowing you to do so, than yes. You should not cut back gas presure at a gas shut-off valve. Metering the gas in like this could possibly create C/O. from incomplete combustion and lack of primary air.
gas dryer is on the right, it sounds as though the thermal fuse is bad, you can tape the wires together to test to see if it heats. As far as the rolling sound I would say it is the drum rollers:
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html
Good Luck Tim. if you need further assistance just ask.
If your pilot light stays on then gas is to that point. Make sure that you have turned control knob to gas on setting and thermostat is turned up calling for heat. If you still don't have any heat lightly tap on body of the gas valve. I know this sounds archaic but sometimes it works and it doesn't cost much. If your unit has a seperate thermostat you can remove the cover and base if needed to get to stat wires. Disconnect them and touch them together. If this brings the gas valve on then replace thermostat. If not I would change gas valve. Hope this helps you. Thanks
I need more info to help you out. You need to check if there is anything else wrong with the furnace. But a for the gas valve goes you nee to check if your geting 24 volts to the gas valve. The pilot sensor might be bad. What kind of gas valve do you have. are the three wires coming back to gas valve Yellow, White, and Green. If they are most likly its the flame sensor not the gas valve.
test thermosat for proper operation ie-broken wire-power if good jump stat and check if unit goes on if it does than stat internal problem or wiring problem and needs replacement or repair --if stat good check fan safety/high limit sensor if good would need to check and test thermocouple thats the tube that the pilot flame burns on may be enough to keep pilot burning but not enough to open valve for heat demand
can u tell me more so many things it could be
example
glow coil not white hot allowing enough electricity to safety valve
(high limit safety thermosat has blown because it got too hot because the vent plugged or the blower obstruckted kinked vent pipes or bird made a nest in pipe any thing that slows don the flow of air can turn the safety thermostate off]
safety valve or the coils on safty vale are defective
flame sencer not senceing flame
switch in motor defective
broken wire
there are so many things it could be and being a gass appliance should only be worked on buy aqualified licenced appliance repair person
(solv ya prob)
You have two of your t-stat wires that are shorted out. Disconnect the wires at both the unit and t-stat. Take two wires at a time and ohm them out. If you have continuity those are the shorted wires. Substitute them for two different colored wires if you have two wires that are currently unused. If not you will need to pull new wire. Please answer back to say if this works or not.
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