Question about GE Zoneline 15,000 BTU 10.6 EER 230 Volts Wall Unit - AZ41E15DAB - AZ41E15DAB

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Heater fuse continues to blow out and only half heater coil works. the other half does not.

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Most likely a short in the coil circuit, needs a person who knows electricity so no one gets hurt

Posted on Nov 21, 2014

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2 Answers

MOD GEW9200LW0 gets hot even on air dry and blows the thermo fuse what to do


One possibility is that the heater switch on the control panel ("User Interface") is shorted. I don't know what kind of switch this is (mechanical switch, relay or a solid-state device such as a triac), but you can test it with an ohmmeter. If it is a mechanical device, the contacts may have welded together, or if it is a solid-state switch the semiconductor junctions may have suffered a punch-through and melted. Test procedure: First, (you MUST have the dryer unplugged!) disconnect the heater connections from the panel. Next, check for continuity between the heater connection and the 240 V connections to the control panel. It should be possible to find a heater connection that is open for both 240 V connections with the heater control set to no heat. If both heater terminals are always connected to a 240 V terminal, the panel needs repair. (At $200+, it's worth fixing, and any competent electronic tech should be able to do it unless it's deliberately designed to be unserviceable.) Look for a schematic diagram in the dryer, either pasted to the back panel or in a set of service information documents enclosed in the control panel. That will help you identify the connections by wire color.

Once you have the control panel repaired, you can replace the thermal cutout.

It seems unlikely that a heater short to ground would cause your symptoms. The heater terminals are connected to 240 VAC (opposite phases of 120 VAC referred to neutral/ground potential). If one side is shorted to ground, your panel breaker would trip immediately (120 V shorted out), or if you connected one side of the heater to ground instead of its 120 V connection, you would only get half power to the heater.

Apr 26, 2014 | managemylife.com

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

The Kenmore 500 will not produce heat as it blows a fuse (30 amp. time delay) but continues to work..when stopped, it will not start again until the blown fuse is replaced and then the same thing over...


The heater has probably failed. When the heater fails, it usually breaks somewhere in the middle of the heater coil. Sometimes the broken coil can touch the heater housing which creates a short or partial short to ground.

Unplug the power cord. Test the heater for continuity with a meter. If the heater does not have continuity, it has failed and must be replaced.

Apr 06, 2010 | Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer

3 Answers

Everytime i turn my heater on heater on works and blows fuse?


fuse blows. unplug heater blower motor turn ignition on, turn heater on, does fuse blow? if not need to replace heater blower motor

Feb 10, 2010 | 1995 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Dryer is spinning, but not heating to dry clothes.


The dryer may be heating more than you think. Has the vent pipe ever been cleaned out? I had to have mine cleaned by a chimney sweep last week and it now works like it used to. There also is a great danger (that I never thought of) in the vent being clogged. It could possibly catch fire and spread to the rest of the structure.
Your heating coil may also be damaged from time and be on it's way out. They are easy to replace and fairly priced.
fIRST THING i WOULD DO IS FIND OUT IF YOU ARE GETTING 240V TO DRYER A LOT OF TIMES THE HEAT SIDE OF YOUR DRYER FUSES BLOWS AND THE DRYER WILL CONTINUE TO RUN . IF THE VOLTAGE IS THERE CUT POWER TO DRYER BY PULLING FUSES OR CLICKING CIRCUIT BREAKER TO OFF. yOU WILL HAVE TO KNOW HOW TO USE A VOLT/OHM METER TO CONTINUE. TAKE ONE WIRE OFF THE HEATER AND CHECK FOR CONTINUITY THROUGH THE HEATER IF NON REPLACE HEATER IF YES CHECK ALL THERMOSTATES FOR CONTINUITY TAK 1 WIRE OFF BEFORE TESTING IF ALL OF THESE CHECKS ARE OK YOU MIGHT BE GETTING IN OVER YOUR HEAD NOW BUT ON THE HAPPY SIDE 95% OF ALL HEAT CALLS FALL UNDER THESE FEW PARTS WITH A BLOWN FUSE AND BAD HEATER ACCOUNTING FOR MORE THAN HALF.

Jun 13, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Ac compressort had to be replaced because it seized up. AC ran good for 2 weeks then went out, now the heater doesnt want to work half the time. i dont know if its my heater coil, a leak in my ac lines,...


THE BLEND DOOR THAT CONTROLS HOT TO COLD SWITCHING IS STICKING. THE CONTORL HEAD IS ELECTRIC AND MAY BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM. HEAT AND AC ARE 2 COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SYSTEMS EXCEPT FOR THE CONTROLLER UNDER YOUR RADIO. HEATER COIL IS REALLY A HEATER CORE WHICH IS A LITTLE RADIATOR INSIDE THE CAR BEHIND THE DASHBOARD.

Mar 22, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Heater fan stop working after a couple of muinutes


Dimplex Electralog Model 6901050600 Ser 17807D2F - 048 Blower and Heater Works fine, Flame has quit working. How do you find and replace the Bulb? Email cairoeichard@gmail.com

Jan 02, 2009 | Dimplex Compact Electric Flame Stove...

1 Answer

My 97 grand am


When the heater coil was installed a wire has gotten a bare spot and is shorting out.You should check around the heater coil.

Aug 24, 2008 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

Blown thermal fuses


I would think not. The MAIN cause of that fuse blowing is lint build up. Turn the dryer on and put your hand on the outside of the vent duct. Is the air blowing hard? If so, you will probaly be ok, if not maybe your blower wheel needs to be replaced...

Dec 15, 2007 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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