Question about Televison & Video
Replaced the Back light Inverter and the Power Board. TV is still doing the same thing. Powers on, shows start up Logo then goes black no picture or sound.
Then you have to assume something is defect. As a technician, I most of the time need equipment connected to the TV, to do my diagnose. Also the technical manual. But before you try to replace all parts and in the end still have a TV that does not do what you want, why not bring it to a service centre, or replace the tv as a whole? (Buy a new one?) A defect in a TV, is not a like software bug, you can come around by a reset or so.
Sorry but sometimes you have to accept something is defect and you can't repair it.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, was there a resolution to this? I am experiencing the same problem with LCT3285TA purchased at Radio Shack in Media, PA. Radio Shack has refused to service the unit and has put me over to Akai for the manufacturer's warranty. I'd like to know what to expect and if this problem with the Logo coming up and the unit shutting off/restarting can be easily fixed, thanks.
Posted on Jan 29, 2008
Reset the tv and the cable or satalite boxes,replug it back an hour later let the tv reset it self back to factory setting and the boxes upgrade it software.The tv should work now.Not,than yes.It the Tuner main board.
Posted on Sep 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Quick response got me in the right area."
The power supply board have more than just two capacitors problems,could be anythings else like a diode,transistor or those transformers on the power suuply board,u have no trouble shooting skills or tv repair experience,will never figure it out.Tries websites like Shopjimmy.con,Ebay.com to buy a whole refurbish power suply board for the replacement.
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
The main board is faulty. This is the common problem to most of the dynex TVs. As you know there is no repair to this board. Replace it as card basis is the only remedy to this fault.
Replace this board, rather than making surgery to it and wasting your precious time and money. The cost of the board come around $95. OK.
Posted on Sep 24, 2011
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