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I recently switched some breaker around in my fuse box. There were a few 110's and 220's not being used. I deleted those to make some room to put a larger amp breaker for my hot tub that been sitting

Don't know what to try from here.

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1 Answer

Try for what ?

You removed breakers not needed or ones with little
on them, to make room for a larger 50 amp Hot Tub
Breaker,so you got your hot tub powered up

What is the question,seems you solved the issue
by making room for the new breaker !

Posted on Nov 21, 2014


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Intermittent Power fading on all electrical circuits

This sounds like a bad connection somewhere. If you are comfortable working on electrical equipment, remove the main circuit breaker panel cover and sometimes an inner cover depending on the panel make.

Turn off the breakers one at a time - Check the wiring connections on ALL circuit breakers after they have been turned off. It's not unusual for wiring to loosen up on breakers after several years. Tighten all the screws where the wires are attached, usually with a flat-blade screwdriver. Then tighten all the white wires attached to the neutral buss. If you see any green wires, tighten them too.

Look for any burned or discolored wires, indicating that something is loose or overloaded. Do not place your other hand on anything metal while you tighten the wiring and use an insulated screwdriver. The best bet is to put your free hand in your pocket so you don't lean on something grounded accidentally.

You should also check the wiring on the main breaker to the home, but this can be dangerous and should only be done by trained personnel. This task may require removing the electric meter outside your house. It's even possible that the wiring on the primary side of the meter is loose - if it looks burnt, call the utility company - they will usually respond to this issue.

Hopefully, tightening all the wiring on the breakers will solve the problem. Residential circuit breakers are usually "stab" type, meaning they ""stab" onto the phase busses.

Above all, please be careful. If you aren't sure, it's usually best to call a licensed electrician.

Ask again if you need more help.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: 240 w/60 a outside breaker with test switch wont'

Inside the controller box is a red button to reset it but most likely the heater element is shorted out so replace the heater element first. Cost $100.00 at any pool or spa shop. Post here if you need more help.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: 20 amp breaker pops with only a light (60watts)

I have been an electrician for 11 years and when these breakers came out in 2005 what a nightmare. These circuit breakers are extremely sensitive. They are designed to sense loose connections and to protect your house from fires caused by them. By increasing the load (ie. more lights or tv) it increases the size of the "arc" created by the loose connection and the circuit breaker trips before the 20 amp maximum. What I normally find as the cause is a loose connection in one of the receptacles or switches on the circuit. A lot of times, installers will use the "quick stab" inserts on the back of the outlets or switches instead of the side screws. Usually, if you "side screw" all of the receptacles and switches it will resolve the nuisance tripping. One other item that can cause them to trip is too many dimmers on the arc circuit but it doesn't sound like that is the problem you're having.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

  • 454 Answers

SOURCE: Circuit breaker only half working - reddish flag?

A red indicator means a circuit overload has tripped the breaker. You mentioned a heater? Does the circuit tripping coincide with the heater running? There may be too much load on that circuit.
Contact the original electrician to see if he will come check it out ( licensed, reputable electrician should have no problem with this). If he gives you the run around, find another. Was any aluminum wiring found in the home inspection?

Posted on May 01, 2010

SOURCE: why is my 50 amp GFIC breaker tripping out? I have

There might be a few things here:

1) Big problem >> the #8 wire is a fire hazard connected to a 50Amp breaker

#8 is a 40 amp breaker
#6 is a 55 amp breaker
We put #6 on a 60 amp breaker
Are you saying you hooked the #8 wire to the new 50 amp breaker, and the hot tub called for #6 wire?

Upsize your wire and breaker to meet code

2) After putting the correct wire and breaker, you can still have a short in the circuit somewhere
We used to set equipment out in the field in early morning >> the grass was wet >> our equipment was fine, but the tiniest short would cause the GFCI to trip

I don't know where the problem is without a thorough checkout of every possible grounded surface. You need a good multi-meter

3) You better get an electrician over there to have a look before the place burns down or somebody wakes up dead in the hot water.

If I sound a bit scary here, it's because something doesn't sound right with your installation.

Posted on Oct 19, 2010

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No power to the receptacles on a circuit, the breaker isn't tripped. there are no GFI's

No breakers are tripped and a circuit is dead.

There is a loose wire.

Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.

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Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.

So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.

Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.

The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.

Here's what to do.
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2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.

The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.

Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle

If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.

Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.

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Hello There,

I would put the Switch's Independently for each fixture, thought wired together through the same wiring to the fusebox.

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If the problem arose after you replaced the switch in your boys room, that is where I would go to first in my attempt to troubleshoot the problem. After you pull the switch out, I would leave the switch in the off position, and check that 2 of the three wires in that box are receiving power.
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If the above instructions are not needed, it is possible that the switch is fed from a plug in the room, and that a connection on the plug could have gone bad. In this case, you should once again, turn the breaker for the room off first.
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1 Answer

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You need to find out which breakers in your switch box operate which outlets. Then you may be able to move some of the appliances to different recepticles that are on different circuits.

Turn the lights on in all the rooms.
Got to your switch box and turn off one of the single switches(not the ones that are two switches hooked together).
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When you find out everything that switch controls, write it on a piece of paper so you will know in the future what that circuit has on it.
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