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I have a new Ryobi RY08420 new out of the box. It starts fine and seems to idle fine. When I go full power, it is almost like the choke lever vibrates further back and causes it to bog down. If I adju

I have a new Ryobi RY08420 new out of the box. It starts fine and seems to idle fine. When I go full power, it is almost like the choke lever vibrates further back and causes it to bog down. If I adjust it further up manually (towards the start position), it runs fine, then vibrates back down and bogs down. Do I need to adjust the High (H) screw or is there an adjustment that keeps the choke lever from vibrating down too far?

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  • Ryobi Master
  • 1,169 Answers

Running too lean at full throttle. Yes you need enrich the high speed mixture a little but make sure the blower has warmed up first that if the carburetor is adjustable.

Posted on Nov 21, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: my 345 chainsaw bogs down when it hits wood

There are two idle screws one high, and one low. Your high adjustment idle screw needs to be adjusted.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman 16'' chainsaw, start with very high rpm, how to adjust ?

The H is for when your cutting,it keeps the saw from stalling. The L, is for the saw when at Idle. When the L ,is adjusted right, the saw should stay running ,and the chain should not move ,that is with the break in the off position. The H screw,should be adjusted if the saw bogs down when rev ed up. A good starting point for theses screws would be a turn and one half out.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: 39cc McCulloch chain saw

I have the same exact saw as you and I was having the same troubles except I had to keep pumping the primer bulb to keep it running. I didn't want to go by a new saw because I knew I could fix it, as I am skilled in small engines, but have never actually taken a chainsaw apart. I dug into it and found that the fuel line that comes out of the side of the carburater and leads into the fuel tank with the fuel finlter on the end looked cracked a little. So i trimmed the end of it off and thought that it would work. It didn't! So I took it back apart (took the carb all the way out) and found that that fuel line was totally rotted underneath the carb and every time I pressed the primer bulb, fuel shot out of a large crack where the fuel line was bent. After I replaced that everything was running great. If you have any more problems, feel free to contact me. John

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: i have a poulan pro classic chain saw PP4620 AV 46

If you did nothing to the carburetor adjustments, are using a fresh (3 months or less) fuel mix with the same oil/fuel ratio, are operating at the same elevation, and the air filter is clean, there is a reason your saw is acting up.
There may be a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel filter on the free end of a hose in fuel tank2.gif (manufacturer recommends an annual replacement). Check all fuel delivery lines especially at fittings and bends for cracks and holes. If those are good then the likely cause is internal parts of the carburetor are dirty or have failed.

Maybe time for a tune up, $40± @ my local Stihl dealer. If you have this done ask what oil/fuel ratio they used and continue with that ratio until your next tune up. Thank the EPA for the adjustment limiters. HTH
Lou

Posted on Oct 16, 2009

  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: have a poulan chainsaw that won't idle/stay

no carb ajustment is done with a flat head screwdriver, first i would remove the card, disassemble it and blast it with compressed air because its probably just clogged up with varnish. to ajust the high low and idle screws bottom both out ( turn in all the way) then unscrew each one turn. from there start the saw and loosen in 1/4 turn at a time until it runs well

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

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Chokes and Dies when cutting


Adjust the choke or carburetor. In case your chainsaw stalls when the engine is idling, ensure that the choke is set properly. To do so, first try releasing it to adjust it, and then move the plate and tighten all screws once again. To loosen any grit, spray carburetor cleaner spray on the choke's shaft. The carburetor may also need to be adjusted; consult your owner's manual which will guide you on resetting the idle mix screw.

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Typically:
1. Press primer button 6-7 times until you see fuel flowing
2. Engage the choke lever to full choke /--/ pull cord 3-5 times until engine begins to start
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If engine does not start, repost with more detail. Thanks! :)

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They aren't designed to run with full choke on, the choke is for starting cold engines only, many times you can choke them pull the cord a few times and then turn the choke off or turn it down to start it. Then slowly reduce the choke until it runs fine on its own.

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Ryobi 720r trimmer starts ok but stalls when the


The carburator needs to be adjusted a little, thin our your mixture screw when the trimmer is warmed up and idling. Well how do you get it to idle? I usually have to play with the choke lever with the throttle wide open going from choke to partial choke as needed to keep it running. Adjusting can be tricky, you need a small screwdriver. Screw all the way in then back out 3 to 3.5 turns. this should get you close. Adjust idle as needed.

Jul 05, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

I HAVE A MODEL775R RYOBI GAS TRIMMER 31CC IT HAS NO SPARK.


you probably made the mistake of leaving it in the shed over winter with gas in it.
in the carb there is a diaphgram that oumps this fuel in via the motor vibrations.
said diaphgram had been ruptured due to drying gas in the carb. the solver to this is to either have a small engine mechanic replace it or the whole carb or get a new one, and i would suggest you get the cs26 model instead. i have a cs30 and cs26 and i have had less problems with 26. it only has two chokes.
you prime it.
you push lever to start, closing all but a little bit of carb,giving engine much richer mixture.
you squeeze trigger, opens halfway/full, as there are two chokers in the carb, on controlled by lever and another by throttle.basically now you haave half choke.
you release trigger, goes back to 7/8 choke to keep at idle but not running. your ready to go.
on the cs30 its much more complicated:
ful choke
prime 7x.
pull 4x
half choke
pull till start.
wait ten seconds of running at idle rotate to run
good to go. but these guys have porr design. if you take off the back cover and look above fuel tank on cs30, the crank is RIGHT SMACK THERE and not better secured like in the '26 model.
that's what the little circular hole is in it.
anywho, the diaphgram is ruptured, and you probably haven't noticed that in addition you have gas leaking out the carb's air intake.

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Ryobi SS30 trimmer starts fine and runs at when in full choke position to about half choke position. But when I put the choke lever to the full run position, it stalls out. Ryobi ss30 same problem of...


You need to rebuild the carburetor. You will need to go to an outdoor power & equipment store of some kind to get a carburetor kit for your specific trimmer. It will come with various gaskets, (some of which you won't use), a needle valve, and a small screen that goes in the carb. Replace all old parts with new. New primer bulb is sold seperately. When you have the carb. apart, you will also need to clean the small ports with a Den Tek Brush (used for cleaning teeth). Use carb. cleaner when cleaning.

Jim

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Stops when given full throttle


Most likely carburetor needs adjustment.

May 15, 2009 | Garden

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ahter you start it up turn choke too off position

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My ryobi bc30 trimmer runs but when I give it gas, it dies


I have the Ryobi BC30 trimmer, also. For a year now, it would only work on half choke. Putting it in run position would cause it to quit. Also, it would no longer idle...it would quit if I idled it for too many seconds. I had not used it in a long while. It would then not run in half choke position and would die in idle. I figured out that if I kept moving the choke lever between full choke and half choke, I could keep it running. I checked the internet for what would cause this. I was using NEW gas and oil. I had replaced the fuel tank because of a hole in it that nothing would seal. This means I had a new tank, fuel filter, and fuel hoses. So, this was not the problem. Since it runs fast between choke and half choke, the basics of the system were fine. I took the carb apart and cleaned whatever I could. Took out the little fuel filter screen and cleaned it. No difference. I took off the exhaust module and looked at it and the screen that is the flame arrestor (mentioned on the internet). It was fine. Of course, folks mention using carb cleaner spray into the air filter port (oh yeah, I had replaced the air filter with a new one earlier). Sprayed repeatedly and no difference.
So, here is WHAT DID WORK! Took the carb off (pretty easy (two nuts to remove, take off the two fuel lines, and remove the little wire that controls the throttle)). Now, take the carb apart carefully screw at a time...geez, there are only two sides! Be careful with the gaskets. One has a thick gasket and a thin one sandwiched together. Pry these apart and clean them (with the carb cleaner spray you already bought). Put them back together and lay aside. Take the other side of the carb apart (another couple of screws?). Need I say to lay everything you take apart on the ground in the order you put them back together? Now you have several big pieces of carb and several smaller plates from each side. Now take your carb cleaner can with the small red straw. Place the straw in EVERY hole you can find on the big pieces and small pieces. Either where goggles or some kind of eye protection. BLAST out all these holes until either fluid comes out ANOTHER hole or obviously this hole goes nowhere. If these holes spray out fine elsewhere, then spray it out backwards through those holes! Be sure to take the fuel filter screen out of its hole (you will just have to find this screen in a fairly large hole in one of the BIG carb parts). Clean the screen by spraying the carb cleaner into it until you are sure it is clean. Place the red carb cleaner straw into the screen filter hole right on the TINY hole at the bottom. Look at the reverse side of the carb. There is a mechanism on a rocker arm that moves up and down with a little push on a flat metal piece. This is the reverse side of where the big hole is that had the screen in it. Blast this out with the carb cleaner while pressing on and off of the flat metal bar on the reverse side. You will see that the flat metal piece is attached to a pole that disappears towards the large hole on the other side (the one that had the screen in it). While blasting from both sides, you will only get a little spray come through. Just keep blasting to clear this component. This is really the only tricky part to clean. ALL the other holes generally will either clear out pretty quickly or there is nothing in the hole. The idea is to BLAST ANY hole you can find in ANY of the parts. Like I said, be careful because while you are blasting TINY holes, you will get a good bit of blast back from the hole you are in. This will cause spray to hit your hands, face, eyes, etc. BE CAREFUL. Don't be a wimp, just protect your self. The carb cleaner is under pressure. It will come out COLD. If you have cuts on your hands, it might even sting. It will also DRY out your fingers if you get enough of this stuff on you. Either wimp out or keep going. If your fingers are getting too cold because of the over spray or back spray, or the carb is freezing, then back off for a bit. This is a disclaimer! Right now my fingers are VERY clean and VERY dried out (but my BC30 works fine!).
Ok, you have sprayed all the holes and figured out that any thru-holes is now clear. Put all the parts and gaskets back together. Reattach the fuel lines to the proper spouts, reattach the throttle control s-curve wire properly. Reattach the carb to the unit with the ONLY TWO nuts. You are now all together again with a really clean carb.
Fill the fuel tank with FRESH GAS from the gas station with the proper oil mixture (come on....just buy the small oil bottles that you use the whole bottle per a gallon of gas).
Ok, you are now starting out with what ought to be a VERY clean carb. THAT problem should be over! What may not be over is that the idle and the high speed may not be working. Remember that my unit would not idle...it would cut off at idle. This procedure cleaned that right up!!!!!!!!!!! The other problem was it would ONLY run at half choke and then less than half choke. Run position would stall and stop.
So, now you need to start the blasted machine. I tried using the proscribed method using FULL choke for a bit, and then half choke. I had waited awhile letting the carb cleaner to evaporate. Don't know. It did not want to even start for awhile. SO, I tried to get it to start in the manner that was working BEFORE I started all this junk. I put the lever in a position between full choke and half choke. This was a very hard position to maintain in order to keep the lever from moving. I had to press the fuel bulb a few times every now and again. I was pressing the FULL POWER button. All of a sudden, it started. And what to my surprise, when I took my hand off the throttle, IT STAYED running! This was PROGRESS!
Now, I put the lever in half choke position and pressed the throttle button. It cranked right up! I was at least back to where I was a year ago. When placing the lever in run position, it tried to stall out as it did a year ago. That was ok, I was making progress. I fiddled around a bit keeping it running and ascertaining that in half choke mode AT IDLE, the unit STAYED ON also at full throttle. I am stoked because I feel the carb is fully cleaned and none of the holes are clogged. So, NOW I feel the only problem is the screw that controls the jet of fuel when the unit is in RUN mode is the problem.
MY UNIT has the TWO screws on the side of the carb. The one closest to the engine controls the IDLE speed of the unit. Since, my machine now idles without cutting off, this screw must be adjusted fine. This also means that one of the holes that deals with the idle was clogged...and my efforts of blowing out ALL the carb holes has fixed this problem. The screw that is FARTHER away from the engine controls the HIGHER speed which includes the RUN position.
So, I took a flat head screw driver to adjust this screw (the OUTSIDE screw). I started the machine in the HALF-choke position that was WORKING. I then turned the outside screw COUNTER-CLOCKWISE a quarter turn. I then moved the lever to the RUN position. It STILL RAN! WOW! But then, as I revved the engine up and down, it slowed down a bit and made me think it might quit. Put it back in half-choke position and it ran fine and revved back up. I then adjusted the outside screw some more in the counter-clockwise position and went back to the RUN position with the lever. I am making progress. I reached a point where I could leave the lever in the RUN position and kept adjusting the OUTSIDE screw counter-clockwise until the unit would go from idle to full speed in the RUN position without stalling or sounding funny. The end result was that the full power was operational and when I let the throttle go, the unit revved down but kept running fine.
My RYOBI BC30 now runs just as well as it did when I first bought it. I did NOT have to buy a new carb OR a carb kit! I was careful with the existing gaskets (one gasket was broken on the OUTSIDE of the screw it went through but had no effect (the outside was far enough away from the inner important area)).
So, here is the deal. If your Ryobi BC30 only runs when you have it set on half choke or less instead of the RUN position (BUT IT RUNS), then your CARB probably has some plugged up holes in it. If when in idle, it quits, then some hole(s) are clogged. The fix is to BLOW out these holes! I used carb cleaner over and over again until I felt the holes HAD to be clean (spray easily came out somewhere else). Some people say to use canned air to clear out the holes. I had the carb cleaner but not the air. So, I did it with the carb cleaner pressure. This worked.
I must say that EARLIER in my trouble shooting actions, I found bits and pieces of what I figured were bits of gasket material which I removed early on. When you take the two nuts off those LONG two screws that hold the carb to the unit, it is hard to remove the plastic air filter unit. Because of this, it is possible to strip some plastic off the air filter unit that might get into the system. So, be careful here. I had to force the plastic unit off...it simply was very tight...so be aware of this. It was so tight, that I looked many times to see if there was something else holding on to it.
Last deal. You can clean the carb. You can adjust the screws if your unit has them. I have heard that later modules do not have the idle adjust and high speed adjust screws. If yours does not, then follow my directions to clean the carb. I have no idea what to do about the screw adjustments if your module does not have the screws. Troup Nightingale

Oct 05, 2008 | Garden

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