Question about Coleman 7990-319p Evcon Gas Furnace Control Board

1 Answer

My control board is indicating a pressure switch stuck open.

The switch seems to be good (checked for continuity with meter) gently sucking on the motor end of the vacuum switch line. Exhaust / intakes are not clogged, no call to the igniter, blower and exhaust fans are running. No call for gas / can feel the gas solenoid kick. Have 25 volts AC to the pressure switch. Any thoughts?

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  • robert holsinger
    robert holsinger Nov 22, 2014

    check all limits and roll out switches

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You might want to see if the switch still shows continuity when the vacuum line is disconnected. Try touching the two switch wires together.

Posted on Nov 23, 2014

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During a cycle machines makes rattling-clicking sound and does not spin. Machine is able to spin and drain without clothes inside.


No wash agitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.

Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!













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Jan 26, 2016 | Hotpoint WML520 Washing Machine

1 Answer

MACHINE IS NOT SPINNING AND INDICATOR WITH H. WHATS PROBLEM IS WITH THE MACHINE?


No wash agitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.

Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

machine-not-spinning-indicator-h-whats-5xsig0kahrbrpc1dmto2pfhz-4-0.jpg

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Jun 13, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Control board on ducane furnace blows when turned on


either high temp switch is bad, check with electric meter for continuity, should be open until it reaches 160 degrees, or control board fan relay is stuck on.

Nov 21, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Gibson Furnace /c Nordyne 624631-A board, red LED flashes twice. No heat being produced.


Gas or electric? If gas make sure the line is on by checking the valve. If electric check your breaker panel box and see if it is tripped. If so reset the breaker.

Oct 06, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Continuous flow from water dispenser


With GE it could be a bad water valve, bad microswitch that actuates the water or could be a bad main control board. You can diagnose the valve by simply pulling the wire harness off and turning the water on. If the water starts to flow with the power removed from the valve then the valve is stuck and needs replacing. If the water stopped with the power removed, check the valve's wire harness with a volt meter and see if 115vac is being applied. If so then the switch or the board are bad. You can check the switch by setting your meter to continuity and checking the com part of the switch to either the no or nc part. One should test good for continuity, the other not and with the switches buttong depressed the exact opposite. If the switch test good then the board is bad.

May 27, 2012 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Diagnostic light blinks three times. there is no obstruction in the vent ani I blew on the presure line and it seemed to be open as I could hear a click. I s there a reset button?


Blow in the opposite direction on the pressure line, blowing or sucking towards the pressure switch will click, and let you know it's working, however what you're looking for is an obstruction in the port on the other side of that tube, which would be giving the pressure switch a false reading. So blow through in the other direction, it should flow. If not, take a paperclip and **** out that port.
Also, I believe 3 blinks on a goodman could also mean failure to light. Which is most likely an ignitor failure. If you can get a visual on the ignitor, look for a crack. if not; take a multimeter, put it on the continuity test (the meter should beep when the terminals touch). unplug the ignitor and put the terminals in either side of the plug (from the ignitor, not from the control board) It should beep, representing continuity through the ignitor. if it doesn't then the ignitor has failed (to be sure pull it out and look very closely for cracks, sometimes only represented by a white line) and needs to be replaced.
Good luck.

Oct 12, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

The LED indicates that the pressure swith is open and shuts everything down after the purge. Pressure switch continuity test shows good and operating properly. Voltage leaving gas valve to pressure switch...


The pressure switch needs to open and closw. Disconnect power to the furnace and remove the pressure switch. Connect your meter to the two leads and blow air through the pressure switch. It should open and close. Your meter should go from less than 1 ohm to infinity. If it does not, you need to replace the pressure switch. Try heatcoolparts.com

Jan 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Hello. I have a Goodman furnace model no. GDS80453AMA. The furnace indicator light is blinking 3 times, which according to the schematic, is "pressure switch stuck open". Previously I've had the furnace...


The pressure switch requires a negative pressure (vacuum) to close the contacts. It is measuring the pressure in the inducer and indirectly ensure there is good combustion airflow throught the heat exchanger. Check for a small vacuum, in the neighborhood of 1" water column. Usually the vacuum required to close the switch is stamped on the vacuum switch. Check the vent pipe for obstructions and correct size and installation.
If the pressure aka vacuum switch does not close the furnace will not continue with ignition, for safety reasons.

Oct 18, 2010 | Goodman GMS80453ANA Open Flame Mid-Size...

1 Answer

Meaning of rudd furnace trouble codes


Error Codes
A green LED indicates system faults
Steady On: System OK
Steady OFF: Board control fault or no power applied
1 Flash: Ignition failure (control in one-hour lockout)
2 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails open (switch is
stuck open)
3 Flashes: Limit switch open (main or auxiliary)
4 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails closed (switch is
stuck closed)
A yellow LED indicates flame status
Steady on: Normal flame is sensed
Flashes: As flame weakens, frequency of LED flashes
increases

Dec 12, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

F 07 fault on my aquarius washer/dryer


This is fault F07 - heater relay stuck. The most common problem for this is the pressure switch sticking. - unplug appliance from mains, remove top, disconnect pressure switch hose from switch, tap switch on tor weight a few times, refit hose, reassemble and test. If this does not work check wiring to heater and meter.
If your fault is heater relay cannot be activated then it's most likely the main pcb that's faulty.
You can check the connections at the heater, they have been known to break internally at the connectors. Also check the plug at the main pcb.
Be careful when working on these machines as the some of the pcb's can hold a charge for a long time
The components which cause this error can be any of the following, heater, ntc, module and pressure switch.

Oct 01, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD63 Front Load...

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