Question about Garden
Battery and not connected. hooked charger to 3 wires below key. red to red (1 wire ) black to black (2 wires ) cranks good no spark
I agree with fabrice, if you can pull start, then try that after removing all 3 wires.
What model do you have? You also have to be sure the Handle lever is pulled in. This will also kill the spark and put a brake on the flywheel. If the cable slipped on the handle, you may not be releasing the brake and kill switch when the handle is squeezed.
The other kill switch is in the key Ignition, thus the 2 black wires and 1 red.
Posted on Nov 29, 2014
Don't connect both blgack cables. 1 is the ignition cut-off. Probabilly, one of both cables has a yellow or white striping. This is then the ignition cut-off. You won't have ignition if this cable is grounded.
Check also the cable in the area where the handle folds for damages!
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On most mowers, that red wire will connect to the battery. that could be your problem.
you didn't say if it is a rider or not, or how old it is.
Touch the wire to positive post on the battery, with the key off, remove quickly if it sparks.
if no spark, hold it to the battery while turning the key.
if the engine tries to start, connect it permanently.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
SOURCE: no spark
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Checking the Coil/Ign Coil/Magnetron/Armature on Small Engines. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**To Check the Ign Coil; Remove the Spark Plug/s.
>>With a Good Plug, Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. >>Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module.
>>Now Check for Spark at the Plug.
>>If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad.
>>If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad and Check the Oil Guard Switch also.**
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire. Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Then Check the Oil Guard Switch (if Applicable). Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**
>>Use a Multimeter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
What is Happening is you are Opening the Carburetor Solenoid when the Harness is Connected and Allowing Just enough Gas to Flow into the Engine and teh Plugs are Not Firing. When you Disconnect the Harness, the Engine Fires because the Safety Swiches cannot Ground Out the Coil with the Coil Shut Off Wire Disconnected (due to the Harness being Disconnected) and Burns the Gas that Entered the Engine when the Carburetor Solenoid was Open.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Posted on May 12, 2009
You might have a capacitor in line with the clutch motor that requires feed from the engine to allow the clutch to engage. I think the red lead is charging current to the battery plus post. Get yourself a 270962 repair manual and it will show you how to wire these things.
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
The front mount mower has a safety switch on the park brake linkage and the seat belt linkage as well as on under the seat which is for the PTO,The one under the seat on the linkage just behind the battery is a culprit that needs adjusting to get the PTO to engage but it sounds like you need to deal with the seat switch circuit or replace the seat switch.
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
SOURCE: i went down to the
I do not know about the wires for your switch, but you have a big problem with overcurrent in your switch if the output of your ignition switch goes straight to the starter. This is a fire hazard if you have done this. The ignition switch should send power to the starting solinoid. The starting solinoid is an electrically operated switch that is designed to handle the current loads with heavier duty electrical components. Be safe.
Posted on Aug 08, 2011
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Tri-circuit Diode Wire
with 2 diodes leading to 1 Red Wire and
1 White Wire
Red Wire = 2-5 Amp DC unregulated for
White Wire = 2-5 Amp DC negative for lights
This is the usual wiring off of the QUAD regulator.
Yellow Connector 2 Yellow Wires
Black Wire = 8 Amp DC unregulated for lights
Red Wire = 8 Amp DC regulated for battery
Small magnets Quad Circuit
20 Volts AC @ stator
I really need an explantion of where your trying to connect to and from. I am thinking your connecting from the engine alternator. IF you replaced the alternator... depending on which alternator you purchased there is a modification that has to be done to wiring harness of the alternator to the regulator.
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