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1) Remove hard bags.
2) Use a marker to mark a position of the belt tension cams on the axel. This will help you put the proper amount of tension on the drive belt when you put it all back together. The left cam is welded to the left side of the axel. The cams are used to tighten or loosen the belt tension. You will see what I'm talking about when you get there and look at it.
3) Remove the two bolts from the rear of the left side bag support. Then loosen the front bolt of the bag support. (Remove the left fusebox cover to access the front support bolt.) Lower the bag support. This is necessary to slide the rear axel out.
4) Remove the two banjo bolts from the rear brake bracket and slide off from the rotor. Support brake with something so you don't damage the brake line.
5) Look carefully at the spacers on the axel and note, along with the order.
6) Loosen the cone nut of the axel on the right side of the bike, but don't remove.
7) Use a bike jack to raise the bike so that the rear wheel is barely touching the ground. Just enough that you can turn the rear wheel and feel the treads rubbing the ground.
8) Remove the cone nut from the right side, along with the right alignment cam washer
9) Genlty tap the end of the axel from the right side of the bike until it slides out from the wheel hub.
10) Pull the axel from the left side, take note of IDS washer and spacer order and position.
11) Slowly jack up the bike until you can pull off the belt pulley...that also contains the IDS (Isolated Drive Sprocket) NOTE; Check that damned IDS bearing in the drive pulley. I have gone through 4 of those crappy bearings...usually every 10k. If the seal is broken on the IDS bearing, get it replaced. This is the wicked gremlin of the 08 FLHX. The rear IDS pulley should just pull away from the hub at this point.
12) Jack the bike up until you can roll the tire, or get it out from underneath the bike. Did I tell you to strap the bike so it doesn't fall over? Just in case ya'know.
It all goes on in the reverse order. I never mount the tire on the rim...I have someone else to that and the balancing. Make sure none of the rubber isolators in the drive pulley have fallen out. Once you have the axel back in, tighten the cone nut enough so that you can tighten the drive belt by turning the cams from the left side of the axel. Use the paint marks you put on the right side of the axel cam to get the drive belt tension where it was at the time you started this whole process. Tighten hand tight, then loosen one full turn, then tighten the cone nut on the right side to torque specs. (Damn, I can't remember what that was. I think 90 - 110 foot pounds but I can't say that with certainty. I think the brake bolts are 35 to 45 foot pounds.)
Hope the helps. You can get cheap PDF shop manuals online if you look hard enough. The best investment I have made was a Harley Shop Manual for the bike...but they ain't cheap.
Diagrams for hubs are specific to the brand and model. There are several book resources that explain in general how a hub system goes together, just about any bicycle repair manual you can find.
If your cruiser bike has a coaster brake it will increase the complexity.
There are a number of specific tools you need to do the job correctly including wrenches and cone wrenches as well as new lithium grease for the bearings. If you do not already own the proper tools this may be a case where it is simpler and cheaper to take the parts into your local bike shop and have them put it back to together, since it is already in pieces the cost should be minimal to reassemble assuming all your parts are good. Cones are not pitted, etc.
You didn't say which year or model Yamaha you have. It makes a difference. Tell you what, go to the website below and you can see a parts diagram for your bike. That should answer your question very well. Please rate my answer. Thanks. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx
the bearing does not always have to be really bad for the seal to fail. Centrifugal force will throw axle grease outward where it gets on the rotor. That can make it feel like the rotor is out of round. If grease got on the brake pads I'd replace them and perhaps even the rotor. As far as the caliper being frozen, possible....check it out when you have it apart. You can have more than one shoe untied at the same time. Not always, but it can happen. When replacing the seal make sure you put some grease on the lip before putting the axle back in. by doing that it won't fail from dry running before the diff lube reaches it.
Yes, the axles have to come out, then the wheel bearings, and finally the drums will come off. Be careful when pulling the drums, pull them straight off the housing, do not allow them to drop on the housing tube, doing so will damage the inner wheel seal. When reassembling the bearings back in the drums just wipe grease on the outside of the bearing, do not pack them with grease. After the drum is back on put a squirt of rear end dope in the hub before putting the axle back in, top up the level in the rear differential, this is where the rear bearings get their lube from.
what is the brand and model of your frame and your rear wheel assembly?usual fitting is better made with the bike mounted upside down, letting gravity make the balancing. but this is possible to most mountain bike, not most road bikes.