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I need the wire diagram for a hot point RB 525R2W electric range to replace the thermostat switch for the oven,PLEASE HELP!!:). Thank you in advance!!

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I need a wire diagram to replace an oven thermostat in a hot point RB 525 R2W electric range,please help!! I already have the new part I just need a picture of the wiring connected


If you have an exact replacement for the thermostat. Draw a diagram of the wires and the location of the connections take a picture of the thermostat with your cell phone. Then compare the drawing to the picture to be sure you have all wires .once you have them all . Then if you have wires that are the same color but hooked up to different connections. Simply place a piece of tape on one of them and make note of it on your drawing . then Unhook the wires and reconnect them to new thermostat. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS off at circuit breaker.

Nov 20, 2014 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The oven does not heat, the fan works but no heat. The amber panel light on the front doesn't come on either.


There is a faulty component inside the unit that is why it is not turning on. The power is working fine, because it is the power that operates the fan. Therefore the panel light that is not turning on is as a result of a bad component. In order to be sure what the faulty component is i will advice that you run a test on the oven, test the oven selector switch, to test the switch,
  1. There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial.
  2. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested.
  3. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced.
To install a new oven selector dial switch,
  1. Remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached.
  2. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch.
  3. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals.
  4. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
Also you need to test the thermostat of the oven to be sure the problem is not from there,
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
To install a new thermostat,
  1. Reverse the disassembly procedures,
  2. Transfer the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped. Thank you for using fixya.

Jan 21, 2011 | Explorer Appliances B196 ELECTRIC Kitchen...

2 Answers

My oven will not warm up. It will just stay at 100 degrees. The gas stove works fine but the oven will not warm up to the desired heat. It worked fine 2 days ago, any suggestions.


My dear friend, i suspect the oven thermostat to be responsible for this. It is a switch that opens when the temperature of a oven is set. Therefore it is bad and cannot work according to the temperature it is set to. The thermostat is located at the control panel where a liquid filled temperature sensor bulb which senses and maintains the temperature of the oven by turning it on and off at every cycle.
First You have to test the thermostat before replacing it. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution! Since i do not know the exact maytag oven type, here is the general process for all types of oven.
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  3. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped you. Thank you for using fixya.

Jan 21, 2011 | Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

Bake element will not shut off at set temp.


You need to check the oven cycle relay,
  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
  2. In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located.
  3. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced.
  4. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Then you check the oven thermostat: When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this information helped you.

Jan 14, 2011 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I have an Amana smoothtop AK2H35 the large dual burner seems to overheat. It gets so hot, that everything burns, when I turn the temp down, the burner does not turn off, though eventually, it does turn...


Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.


  3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.


  4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.


  5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
    1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
    2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
    3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
    4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
    5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


  3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

    Adjusting the thermostat:

  4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


  5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

Dec 01, 2010 | Amana Cooktops

1 Answer

Ancient (1971) Frigidaire Cookmaster electric Compact 30 Range/Oven, model number RBG-533N, has two surface mounted red indicator lamps; one for the oven & one for the burners. The surface burner...


The stove has 4 burner switches with a # 2 terminal on each switch. This contact is similiar on all four switches. One of the switches # 2 contact is stuck. The burner switch should disconnect both legs of the 240 volt circuit, one leg through the # 2 terminal and one leg through the thermostat built into the burner switch. Disconnect the pilot lamp wire on each switch unti the light goes off and then replace that burner switch. This should correct the problem

phucks001@horrycountyschools.net

Oct 08, 2010 | Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

I have a Lincoln 1301 electric oven and the temp light will now not come on and the oven does not heat. Previously it would flicker and then come on and stay on. Now when I start the oven it flickers and...


Hi,

One of these problems must have happen to your electric oven.

Element terminals have loose connections? Reposition the element.

Range element shorted out? Find out by testing; replace if needed.

Burner switch is bad? Find out by testing; replace if needed.

Element receptacle bad? Find out by testing; replace if needed.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

Jun 30, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

The oven and broiler won't heat


It sounds like an incomplete circuit so be careful.

Now all this is coming form my assumption that your using a setting that has both elements on at 1 time. like Baking.

First the most common thing:A COMMON TIE POINT;
A main wire burned off will cause both elements to not heat at the same time. It could be at the back going to one element then jump off and go to the second element. Or some times the manufacturer runs the wiring to the front on the controls, and a 3rd area that they could have a common tie point is right where the power comes into the oven. When this usually happens you'll have ok burners on top and no power completed to the bottom.
OR
It could be a switch that's bad and not allowing power to carry on to your oven controls at the thermostat.

If you need more help please get back to me and I'll post back. If this helped you figure it out or decide you need a tech please rate me as high as you can and thank you for using Fix Ya.

Apr 07, 2009 | Amana ARDS802SS Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

GE J BP27G R1AD Oven Not Heating Fully


Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.

Dec 14, 2008 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Oven quit, bake not working, replaced thermostat, now broil works, still no bake


Your problem may be the bake relay on the clock or wiring.try changing that

Aug 12, 2008 | Viking VDSC307-4B Dual Fuel (Electric and...

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