Question about Audio Players & Recorders
Check the impedance of the wires at the point they enter the speakers 4 ohms.
is the polarity the same on both speaker connections?
Posted on Nov 20, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, it's probably that the 8" woofer and the midrange of the "amped" enclosure is open. One way to test is to remove just one wire from the inside of the enclosure to the woofer or midrange in question and with the use of a continuity tester (or a VOM), check for the resistance of the coil of each the 2 speakers. Both should read anywhere from 4-8 ohms, if there's no reading (VOM needle will not move) then the coil(s) are open. In the absence of a tester, a single AAA or AA battery would do (pls. some would argue that this is not a sound practice, however this should be enough for you to be able to determine the condition of the coil(s)). With the use of the battery and a single short length of electrical wire, apply power from the battery to the terminals of the speaker, if the cone moves, then chances are it is good, if they don't then you would have to replace it. Am not sure if available in your area, but there are some trained people who can rewind the coil should a replacement speaker be not readily available. Hope this be of help. Please let us know how things turn up. Regards.
Posted on Apr 15, 2007
3/4 update: i bypassed the 300w amp on my first ovtr3 with a cs3006 crossover i purchased on ebay. the input wires at the base of the speaker were connected to the input of the crossover, the bass output of the new crossover was connected to the yellow/yellow-black lf+/lf- wires that used to leave the old 300w amp. the high freq output of the new crossover was directly connected to the leads coming from the speaker's tweeter (running the midfreq outputs from the new crossover to the input of the speaker's old crossover is no good, since the midfreq output of the new crossover would rolloff and provide little high freq to the tweeter). The mid-freq output from the crossover was connected to the input of the old crossover that came with the speaker (alternatively, i could have wired the mid freq output from the new crossover directly to the midrange speakers, but i figured the old crossover might have had some characteristics that would have been helpful. the result is better than i hoped for! true, the bass is not quite as floor shaking as before (and you need an amp that can boost +5-+10db below 350Hz and rolloff the boost above 350Hz), but the end result is more than satisfying and gives these speakers new life. I am using a Sony receiver that puts out around 200W for the front speakers.
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
with help from a other site I bi-wired it using a bigger amp. It now gets 105w at 8ohm using a 18 octive slope filter set at 80hz.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
If these speakers are two or three way speakers, it is possible that the tweeter(s) are blown in them.
Try and remove cover to check.
If the sound is not distorting, but just flat and muddy its the tweeters.
Put the other ones on this channel, to make sure it is not the amp.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
It is a 4 ohm nominal impedance woofer. If you put a new woofer in, it will last maybe half an hour and then fry/melt. The problem is the amp, not the woofer. Throw the amp out and use the box as a passive sub. Get a 100 hz sub crossover.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
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