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Decipher service codes for Fisher and Paykel refrigerator active smart RF170WDLX4 17.1 cubic feet bottom freezer

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You need a technican with a laptop to decipher the codes.

Posted on Jan 17, 2016


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: fisher paykel e522bre active smart refrigerator

It could be one of 3 things. The circulator fan, the defrost timer or the defrost thermostat. Your schematic should show where these parts are on the unit

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

  • 1557 Answers

SOURCE: fisher paykel e522bre active smart refrigerator

you need to have the defrost element replaced !!

Posted on May 15, 2010

Daniel S
  • 4323 Answers

SOURCE: My Fisher and Paykel Active


If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.


Posted on May 14, 2011

  • 3018 Answers

SOURCE: I have 2005 model of

  • Sure it can be due to lack of gas. You can't check the pressure because one has to be certified to fool with the gases. But we can narrow it down to weather or not it might be the gases or not. The refrigerant system is sealed and will never leak out if there is never a leak.It will in theory always blow cold air. When you had it gassed did they repair a leak? If not the gases could have seeped out again. Just like in a car, same set up. You had to have it gassed for a reason and if that reason was not repaired it could very well be the problem.

  • Are the fans in the refrigerator running at all? In the freezer part? If the fans don't circulate then the cold air will not either. Unlikely that both will go at the same time but not impossible.

  • Is your compressor running at all? On the compressor you should have a relay. If you pull it out and shake it does it rattle like it has rocks in it? This can be your problem.

  • Also look around the coils around the compressor. Where the gasses travel. You will want to look for rusted or "greening" of the copper pipes. This can be a good indicator of a possible spot that is leaking. To test the actual gasses and the pressure you need gauges and the know how to use them.

  • Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Posted on Jul 31, 2011

  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Smart reach refrigerator w/

WHY? You have a bet with someone?

Posted on Aug 24, 2011

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