Question about LG WM2701HV 4.5 Cu. Ft. Front-Load Washer - Graphite Steel

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I have an LG WM2071HV that stopped spinning in the middle of a load. I pulled the clothes out of the tub, but there was still water (not completely drained). At this point I don't know if it

I have an LG WM2071HV that stopped spinning in the middle of a load. I pulled the clothes out of the tub, but there was still water (not completely drained). At this point I don't know if it's the pump or the stator/rotor or just the motor sensor. I did get an error code of "tcL" which I was told means tub or top clean. Has anyone ever experienced this before and does the "tcl" code have anything to do with it?

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  • 579 Answers

I would say the problem is the inside of the pump. One fellow I helped the other day found two dimes in the pump effecting the spin. The pumps in these machines are strong ,but they do clog or become blocked. When this happens people experience what you did. If you know what to do, fine, but I will guide you through to fix your problem. Remove back cover to machine, screws top, bottom, side and side. You may need to remove hoses. The pump is in center front of machine and it sits on rubber feet that slip into protrusion in floor of machine. Push forward or backward till it pulls out. Don't forget to remove hoses attached to pump. I believe the filter is attached to the pump. Open filter clean out, then disassemble pump 4-6 screws and see what's inside. If all is clean check hose from drum to pump, and then check hose from pump out to sewer. I recently found a clog that was so tight nothing was able to get through. These new machines will shut down before any damage happens. I hope you get back to me with you results, I would like to know how you make out. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Posted on Nov 19, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: LG front load washer WM2277HW. ''LE'' Error code

First try unplugging the machine for a few minutes and then retry a cycle. If you still get the LE error:

The Hall sensor (part number 6501KW2001A) has failed. The hall sensor is rather easy to replace, and is covered by a seven year part warranty (in the US). Take the back cover off. Take the big nut off and remove the motor rotor. Remove the bolts holding the motor windings. Remove the electric plug on the sensor and unclip it from the motor winding. Snap new sensor on and reassemble. Usually takes under a half hour. On a difficulty scale of 1 - 10, it might rate a 4. This should be a Fix-Ya for your machine, and at basically no cost!
In the US, find a service provider using your zip code at http://us.lgservice.com/index_b2c.jsp or call LG at 800-243-0000

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: I have an LG WM0532HW front load washer. The

I would replace the sensor on the stater. I have replaced that a couple times for this problem and it has solved the problem. If you remove the back then take off the main drive you will see the stater and you will see a small sensor on it. Change it and you will probably solve this problem. The part is about $25.00
Mike Anderson
Anderson Appliance

Posted on Feb 18, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: LG CODE tcL. What does it mean?

I got the same code - I contacted LG. They have 24 hour customer service available at 800-243-0000 and my call was answered immediately. The code means "top clean load" and is not an error. You have run enough cycles and the washer is asking you to run a cycle with no clothes, and bleach only.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

  • 552 Answers

SOURCE: My LG WM2487HRM has the

The pump is on the lower left of the front

Posted on Mar 08, 2011

  • 128 Answers

SOURCE: LG Washer has UE error code, I know for a fact that the clothes in it are not off balance.

balance sensor defective.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/lg-sensor-assembly-item-number-ap4440678.aspx .

Posted on Jun 28, 2012

Testimonial: "I finally got the balance sensor yesterday and installed it, and it fixed the problem! I would of installed the sensor alot sooner, but at repair clinic they have that part number listed as being a 'Humidity Sensor'. I couldn't understand why there would be a Humidity sensor in that particular spot, from experience it did seem to be a balance sensor, but like I said repairclinic.com said it was a humidity sensor so I was hesitant to replace it at first. So I changed the Hall sensor and the shock absorbers first with no effect. i'm glad I got it fixed, because after messing with it for so long and all the stress it gave me, I was about to use it as target practice haha. thanks"

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I would replace the sensor on the stater. I have replaced that a couple times for this problem and it has solved the problem. If you remove the back then take off the main drive you will see the stater and you will see a small sensor on it. Change it and you will probably solve this problem. The part is about $25.00
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The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

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It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
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It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

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Motor coupler
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Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
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  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve. 

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hi friend,
If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many
washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub
that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's
attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the
hoses
from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the
large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using
needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator,
top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might
be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be
turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably
has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the
pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen
or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your
washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the
washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck
in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

* If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.


* If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

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1 Answer

Clothes are still water logged after cycle


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

From Repairclinic

Oct 24, 2008 | LG WM1814CW Front Load Washer

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