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How do I remove dried latex paint from frosted glass without ruining the frost?

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It's pretty hard to damage frosted glass. It is frosted usually by a process like sand blasting that dulls the surface of the glass so it is not a "coating" that can be scraped off. Latex paint can be removed easily from glass by heating it with a hair dryer. It will then simply peel off when it gets soft. Be sure to heat the class slowly and evenly if it is cold just to make sure it doesn't expand too quickly to avoid cracking.

Posted on Nov 20, 2014

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Ice maker auger not moving ice when you press glass under


Remove the ice container and look in the slots or grooves where the container rests. You should find a build up of frost that is elevating the container slightly. When it is raised just a bit, the auger drive fails to engage adequately into the dispenser auger.

Use a hair dryer and a dry towel to sop up the frost melted with the hair dryer. Be careful not to use 'high' heat position as you could warp the plastic of the compartment.

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I have a little cabinet with a glass front that has a frosted coating. I want to take the coating off so it's clear glass. Can anyone tell me how I can take it off.


If the glass itself is frosted, you.re out of luck, you cannot remove it, you must replace it. If its just a stick on type frosting you can use a flat blade scraper to scrape it off, then clean the glue off with "goobegone" and rinse with warm water.

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The sun is so harsh on wood windowsills they crack in a couple of years and have to be repainted. Someone told me to use aluminum oil based paint on them prior to painting them. All I found is 402...


Usually when you have cracking on your windows, there's several variables including sunlight. One of the biggest problems is using the incorrect primer or a cheap paint. Contrary to what many believe, a primer that dries extremely hard is not ideal for exterior surfaces. Wood expands and contracts with heat, cold and moisture. A high quality latex primer, topped with a high quality exterior latex paint will give you the best results. It allows for flexibility but offers great protection. Some prefer an oil/alkyd based primer. This is fine as long as it's a slow drying primer. The quick drying primers have hardeners in them that don't flex well. Be sure to remove any loose and flaking paint before you prime them. There are places where you can cut corners with painting. I wouldn't do it on exterior paint. One last thing to be aware of- be sure it's not lead paint you're working with. That changes everything.

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I painted a section of my garage floor with a cup of paint 1/4c oil base acrylic mixed with 3/4 c water base latex...will it ever dry thoroughly? it is drying slowly and is really sticky. will I just have...


did you ever try to mix water with oil? what was the result? are you sure that you can cross the street without adult holding your hand?

unfortunately you need to remove all that paint, just drop few shovels of fine sand over, and scrape it... sand will adhere to the tp surface of the pain and will allow you to scrape it. after you scrape it off, use any degreaser or similar product to wash reminder off, leave it for few weeks to dry through and then in small patch try if it would accept latex pain, roll it very, very thinly and leave overnight, if it is dry (solid dry) after 24hrs and do not peel off, you can then use this paint on the rest of your garage floor.

now, i would advice strongly against painting garage floor with any paint except concrete paint (they are usually water based with strongly alcalic ph), and after that use concrete seal. this should give you long lasting surface, sealed from oils, dust, water and whatever contaminant you can imagine in the garage.

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What is the correct concistancy the paint needs to be mixed at for the dynatec psg 45 electric spray gun


It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

Add a comment for more free help.
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The paint is too thick try thinning out the paint would be one possibillity clogged tip/filter. Also what happens sometimes is when using latex it drys fast so sometimes it starts gumming up the springs so it doesnt allow the trigger to close up all the way. Take apart clean thoroughly and use an latex dryin additive it slows down the drying prosess a must when using latex. Please give a 4 THUMBS UP if this free answer has any way helped. Good Luck and have a Great Day.

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Ge profile artica ice dispenser and chute frosing.


This may be because the chute door is not all the way shut when off. If yes the warm moist air is being pulled through the opening and causing this. Sea Breeze

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Glasses come out with a frosted appearance.


A frosted appearance can be caused by a couple of things in order to narrow it down, perform this test:
Purchased a gallon of distilled water from the grocery store and soak some of the glasses in this. Rinse them well and try to remove the frost with only a clean towel and the water, then dry.
Does the haze remain? If no, you either have water with contains high amounts of Total Disolved Solids (TDS) or your washer is not rinsing properly. For high TDS it will be necessary to use a filtration of some type (usually a Reverse-Osmosis System) but these are rather spendy and it is a matter of choice if you wish to invest in such things. Contact a water expert in your area for further information.
If washer is not rinsing properly, check screens and jets for any blockages and clean as necessary.
If the haze does remain, your glasses have suffered from a process known as silica etching. This is ir-reversible and glasses must be discarded if haze is not tolerable. This typically happens in areas where the water to the dish washer has been softened through a water softener, or water which is natually soft (0 grains). If this is the case, locate the bypass valve behind the softener and open it just a little. The idea is to allow a little of the hardness in the water to remain, thus preventing the silica in the glassware from exiting the glass.
Ideal water conditions for "crystal-clear" glassware is no TDS (200ppm or less) and 1-3 grains of water hardness.
Hope this helps,
Kermit

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