I have use a three in one work for about two weeks and stop cooling in the process of moving stuff out , it star working again for a day ,and stop cooling again.
That can be so many different things that its hard to answer this question. Do you hear any clicking noises every so often? If so it is probably the relay/overload on the compressor. If not is the compressor running?
SOURCE: GE- GTS22WC refrigerator. Both the refrigerator
The auto defrost heat element is not working. When the ice buildup clogs the airflow the unit stops cooling. Once you unplug it and give it a chance to melt it works again. You need to have the defrost unit replaced.
Your defrost system is bad. Replace the defrost thermostat and defrost heater in the freezer.
SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling
You model if the ARB1950C has a defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment and behind the temperature control panel. Need to see if you can manualy turn the timer clockwise until the compressor stops. During that time of 25 minutes the freezer should be in defrost. I believe your timer needs replaced based on how you explained what is happening. The part number for your timer is 67001036 and can be found at the links below. If it stays longer that 25 minutes then it's sticking in the defrost section of the defrost timer and will need to be replaced. If your refrigerator does not restart after about 25 minutes then slowly turn the timer through the opening in the plastic cover. There may be a plug covering the hole to make the hole not so visible. If you should have problems fell free to let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
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SOURCE: my Magic Chef refrigerator has stopped cooling.
The most likely cause is that the defrost system is not working. After about a week it builds up with enough frost to stop the cold air from getting to the refrigerator section. The most common problem is the defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost thermostat.
SOURCE: refrigerator/freezer not cold as they should be
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main
control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger
wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3
. Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1
end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min ,
look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red
glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a
shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat (
pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to
remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils ,
held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire
going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control
board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting .
This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the
coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to
also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front
of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor ,
is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off .
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