Question about Sewing Machines
Cleaning, changing needles, and thread. it appears that the part that the feed dogs is attached to is moving to an incorrect position. We can move it back, but after a few more times, it will do it again.
Might be a damaged gear inside that's slipping. That's a pretty uncommon problem I think.. likely you need a repair shop for this issue.
Posted on Nov 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Feed Dogs, Thread Tangle
Hi Jeanette! You have a Singer Featherweight--the best sewing machine ever made! (Mine dates from 1950/51 and I wouldn't trade it for the world.) These beautiful, sturdy machines were designed to be easily repairable at home, but you'll need a copy of the Service Manual (get the Instruction manual too, if you don't have one.) Go to www.singer-featherweight.com and check out what they have available.
I had a similar problem (needle thread not catching the bobbin thread) and the problem was that I hadn't put the needle in correctly (flat side to the left). Also, I will occasionally get thread wrapped around the bobbin housing--sewing along just great and then everything comes to a screeching halt. I'm not sure why that happens, but I'm getting pretty good at taking the bobbin housing apart. The manual is pretty clear on how to do it. You can contact me direct at email@example.com for more information.
Posted on Jan 10, 2008
SOURCE: Timing for Bernina Virtuosa 153
Timing these machines gets pretty involved such as in just removing the covers. You need a grounding ******** your wrist as the cables all need to be unplugged and you don't want to send a static charge from yourself to the circuit boards. They are expensive. Then you need special sized metal pins to pin several pinning points so the needle, hook, stepping motors and feed dogs all co-ordinate with each other. Also several places need certain guages to set less than .1 millimeter size distances between different places to avoid other problems. You also need several sized torx screwdrivers and the knowledge to adjust the upper and lower tensions. The upper tension alone has at least 3 or four places that need to be in the correct position.
All of the above has to be done in a certain order also.
Its complicated enough. If someone is going to walk you through this over the phone expect it to be complicated. Even if you had a copy of the manual (which could be a copywrite infringment on newer machines) you can expect it to be difficult.
My advice is to leave it to the professionals to have it done right.
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
There is a spring loaded catch on the needle bar assembly. It is designed to keep the needle bar from going up and down on command for basting. That way it can take fewer stitches while basting. Anyway, over time, with lint build up, use and not enough oiling, the needle bar clamp release can stick. It is located in the machine cover and hard to get at. It is located right at the point where the needle bar clamp (middle of needle bar) is. It looks pointed on top and about 3/8" tall and SHOULD be able to move front to back (as you are sitting at the machine. If you want to fix it your self, lay the machine on it's back to see up into the needle bar area, you can also see through the threading slot as well.to oil it with SEWING MACHINE oil (read not 3 n1 oil) and try to work it front to back until it breaks free and play with it until it springs back every time you push it. I hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
Feed dog drive gear(2) are plastic and are probably stripped. Always replace them in pairs. While you are at it replace both hook drive gears as well. It will run as good as new.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Open the throat plate and bobbin area to see if thread has tangled there. Snip and remove thread with tweezers - do not yank or **** and tangles out of the machine.
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
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