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Troubleshooting no heat electric dryer

MN 110.64872401. Need to troubleshoot parts but cant remove back panel, it seems to be sealed or glued on, besides the screws that hold it in place. What should I troubleshoot first?

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 9,742 Answers

Check the circuit breakers for the dryer first. If one trips without the other one 240 volts will stop the heat element but will allow the rest of the machine to work.

Posted on Nov 19, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: dle5932w electric dryer

the back of the dryer have about 16 sheet metal screws.remove all the screws with a nut driver.the back should come off.

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: removing front panel on kenmore dryer

I was able to fix my dryer on my own. the problem was, i was instructed to access an area that wasn't correct for the needed repair.

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: FIn inside neptune md55 dryer came loose need to remove side pane

I had the same problem but it's the FRONT Panel you need to remove. Before you start, unplug the thing first. BTW I did the whole proceedure in 10 minutes using an electric screwdiver / philips bit and a socket set with an 8mm socket with my leg in a cast. You can do better, I'm confident!

Two 8mm hex head bolts hold each fin on the drum. They can be tightened. You need to open the dryer front since they bolt from the outside of the drum. To open the dryer front you first take the door off by removing the two philips head screws, then slightly lift the door and pull toward you (the door hinges have little hooks on the end that inserts into the slots (this little design keeps the door from falling off during removal and install-nice). Then remove the two philips screws on the other side of the door opening (opposite the door hinges). These screws hold two plastic brackets (be sure to see how they are aligned before you remove them so you know how they go back on.

Now the front frame panel looks like an "H" . Grab the top two arms of the 'H" and give a quick ****. The top arms of the 'H" will come loose. The bottom part is held by a couple of clips, just pull up and the front panel comes off.

You will be able to spin the drum until the hex bolts for the fin(s) in question are visable / reachable from the right side (just above the heater unit-hope you unplugged the dryer earlier). I tightened it using an 8 mm socket.

Now reverse your steps: put the front panel back on the bottom clips and snap the top "H" arms back in place. Reinstall the plastic clips / screws and then put the door back on.

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool GEW9868K Electric Dryer remove back panel

You will need to pry the front corners of the top to open and then remove the front to get inside. Please unplug first , Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 235 Answers

SOURCE: GGQ9800PW1 How can I remove the back panel?

Newer models have access through the front lower panel. Removing the panel will expose the t-stats and all other parts. Remember to disconnect all power to dryer before servicing. Disconnect the wires to the thermal fuse and join them together. Connect dryer and start, if it heats up then your fuse is bad. Costs about 10 bucks.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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How do I replace the felt seal


Most felt seals are glued in with a hi temp glue. Without seeing it I can't be sure but I think the drum has to come out to fix it properly. The glue can be purchased from most parts suppliers and sometimes comes with the new seal.

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How to repair stainless steel on a dryer drum


For my Frigidaire manufactured Kenmore dryer, the stainless steel drum is part ordinary painted steel (front flange). That flange is part of the suspension for the drum. The flange rides on a nylon wear pad above the door. On both sides of the pad, there is a felt that is glued to the dryer front panel to act as a seal. What happens is that the paint on the ordinary steel flange rubs through and rusts, staining clothes during the drying cycle. I have to replace the nylon pad and felts every few years to combat the rusting issue. The felt and nylong pad assembly is glued to the cabinet flange using heat resistant adhesive.

Feb 25, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

MY DRYER WON'T HEAT.


This is usually caused by a blown thermal cut-off which blows and cuts power to the heating element due to the failure of the high limit-thermostat to cycle off and regulate the heating element temperature. Check the dryer for clogged lint screen and/or restricted vent system then replace both thermostats when either of them has failed. Both are located on the blower housing.

Click on the links below for the detailed troubleshooting of this dryer problem. Just follow the instructions that are applicable to your dryer since you did not specify the dryer's exact model number.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating



Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Bottom Panel) Running But Not Heating

Jun 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

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My whirlpool leb 6000 pqo will not heat


check heating coils, high limit, temp selector switch.

Apr 05, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer turns on, and tumbles. Yet it no longer get hot. I was thinking heating coil. But was told it could be a smaller part.


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off which cuts power to the heating element when it blows due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Mar 25, 2011 | Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

3 Answers

I HAVE A RED4340SQ1 ELECTRIC DRYER WHERE IS THE HEATING ELEMENT LOCATED


The heating element is located at the rear of the dryer behind the rear access panel. Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the rear access panel to the cabinet and remove the panel.
jahn27_195.jpg

Your dryer seems not heating but it doesn't mean the heating element is busted. The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed procedures.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating


Feb 27, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

80 series kenmore electric dryer runs but no heat


This could be the heating element or several other parts more likely the thermal fuse. There is a video on troubleshooting a similar model at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru troubleshooting your problem.

Mar 28, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Just quit drying clothes


If it does not dry them all then the element is a good guess or the thermostat.

If it dries them but not all the way check that the moisture sensor is not turned down too far.

The following should help you.

How to Repair Heating Elements A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
how-to-repair-a-dryer-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater, controlled by an air shutter.
Electric dryers have self-contained electric heating elements.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.

Servicing the Fan

The most common dryer fan problem is lint clogging the air passages through the heater and through the dryer drum. To clear a clogged air passage, remove the back service panel of the dryer and back out the screws holding the air duct in place. Then reach into the duct and remove all the lint and dirt possible. Reassemble the parts.

Also inspect the fan for a loose screw connection where the motor shaft is set on the dryer's drum. Remove the back service panel, tighten the screw, and replace the panel.

May 09, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not heating


what is the model #the heater is not in the back of the he4.

Oct 21, 2008 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 110.84821300


The rythmic rubbing sound you are hearing could be coming from a few sources. It could be drum support rollers that require lubrication, bulkhead screws that have come loose, the drum seal not seated properly, or a silencer plate that has come off the compartment side and is rubbing on the drum.

First, look inside the dryer along the seam where the drum meets the front and rear of the dryer. You should not see any part of the felt drum seal protruding inside the drum. Sometimes the seal starts to come loose or becomes misaligned and sticks through inside the drum. This will cause thumping and excessive noise. If you have anything caught in the drum seal (i.e., a screw, change, etc.) this can also cause excessive noise.

Remove the dryer top panel and start the dryer and watch for anything obvious rubbing on the drum. The top comes off by removing the screws in the rear and sliding the panel back, then up. (CAUTION: DO NOT get your hands around the drum while it is rotating and any of the electrical connections). Look for any vibration from from the rear bulkhead (this is the back wall of the dryer where the drum rides against). Sometimes the screws holding the bulkhead to the cabinet come loose.

Another thing to look for is a metal silencer plate that is usually mounted along the side panels. This plate is glued on and is used for noise reduction. Sometimes it comes off and will rub against the drum.

If everything checks out good, remove the lower panel under the door by removing the screws under the bottom edge (HINT: Placing a small block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make this easier). The panel will drop down then come off. If it gets stuck, tap on either side to knock it loose. Start the dryer again and look/listen for any noises coming from the drum supports. The drum rides on the drum supports and they require periodic cleaning and lubrication.

The drum light could be a lamp socket problem and/or wiring. Make sure you are using the correct bulb as well. I believe the bulb is only supposed to be a 25W bulb. This isn't related to any long dry time problem.

The heat problem could be directly associated to clogged dryer ducting. If the dryer is full of lint when you open it, you will have to thoroughly clean the vent ducting and interior cabinet. NOTE: This is a fire hazard!

Some things to try: Remove the dryer exhaust hose and start the dryer. The air leaving the back of the dryer should be forceful and hot (about 140 degrees F). If the air flow is weak and cool, you have a clog INSIDE your dryer. If the air flow is normal, check the vent ducting from where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. The dryer ducting should be cleaned routinely and kept clear of obstructions.

Your heat problem may not be a component at all. Double check your dryer interior and ducting and let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.

Apr 10, 2008 | Dryers

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