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My house heater turns off after reaching the set temperature but it does not come back up after that. In order for it to turn on I have to turn it off at the thermostat and wait about a minute them turn it on. What could be the problem

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  • 183 Answers

If the thermostat is more than 5-10 years old, i would replace it. take the old one off the wall and notice the number of wires, then take that info to the store for the appropriate one. they are easily bought for $20 and up. sounds almost like it's short cycling, thinking it's warm enough when it isn't.

Posted on Nov 18, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: pro comm natural gas heater, pilot keeps going out

The problem is likely to be either the thermal-couple (easily replaced) or a clogged gas orrifice. The clogged orrifice would require a bit more know-how then the thermal-couple and with gas appliances it would be best to hire someone who knows what they are doing.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

shastalaker7
  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: I have a W355F Cozy wall heater. I lit the pilot

I would take out the new stat and return it.Just because it was new doesn't mean it didn't have a factory defect. I see this all of the time buying a/c and Heater parts that I have to return for credit.
Good Luck, Shastalaker7
PS It sounds to me like you know whats up.Sincerely, Shastalaker7

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

shastalaker7
  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: my honeywell central heating system turns off on

Hi, Just to let you know I have repaired central Heat & Air systems for 33 years and Have seen this problem on many occasions. Lets see if I can save you so many trips.It says you have a programmable stat? On this stat and on a mechanical stat, they have what is called a heat anticipator that controls how many and how often your thermostat turns you're unit off and on and how long it cycles after the stat is satisfied. If you have ever seen under the cover of a mechanical stat, ( mercury switch type) you will see a dial with an arrow with numbers as .1, .3, .4 1.0, or .15 to 1.0 amps.Some are fixed and some are adjustable. On a digital stat, you will have to get into the program and see what the heat anticipator is set on. They come from the factory at .4, but to really find out what you'res should be it takes an amprobe to do this. The setting you need is what you're gas valve requires.I am sure I have lost you, but I am just giving you a little food for thought. If you can get into you're program and set this to .4, great. If the problem continues, your anticipator on this stat is more than likely, shorted, which would require you to buy a new stat.With a shorted anticipator, it will seem to be working like you say, but when satisfied, the temp.keeps falling until you reset power, then it fires and repeats this. Change the stat. If this is central heat and air, just follow red-rc which will have a red jumper to rh for heat, white to w, green to g=fan, and yellow or blue to y = cooling. If you have central heat only, you will find 2 wires red and white.Red to rh with jumper still installed to rc and then white to w.This is quite a long explanation, but I wanted you to know a little more then the next guy about your stat. Please let me know.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: gas heater doesn't stay on longer than 5 minutes.

It sounds to me that your air flow is restricted somewhere. The first thing to check is your air filter. If that gets real dirty your restricted air flow will cause the hi-limit(hi temperature limit switch) in your heat exchanger compartment to over heat and open up your gas valve electrical circuit,thus, shutting off the gas to your burners. After the hi-limit switch cools down the furnace will go back to heating again then it will overheat again(you get the picture?) If it keeps cycling on and off like that the house will never get warm if it is cold outside. If your air filter is reasonably clean(you should be able to see light thru it easily) then the secondary heat exchanger could also be dirty, this is located above the indoor fan housing, you would need to pull the indoor blower assembly out of the furnace and look up above. The secondary heat exchanger looks similar to a radiator will fins. You can use a medium stiff plastic brush to brush the dirt,hair, whatever off of it. Another problem spot would be the cooling evaporator coil (if you have central airconditioning) located most likely above the furnace in the plenum(if your furnace is in a basement). This usually is difficult to access if an access cover wasn't installed when the airconditioning was installed. I would recommend an experience service tech to clean it for you. Also make sure all you supply air registers and return air registers are open . These are the things I would check first. Good luck!!

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Honeywell RTH2310 thermostat temp variance

Hi,
Yes you can change that by change the number of cycles per hour that your t-stat looks from for youe furnace. Lower the cycles per hour number and it will increase the range.

You can see how to do it here

http://dl.owneriq.net/3/39359643-dfda-451d-bb81-828eecddd9fc.pdf

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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