Question about GMC 98-04 Jimmy Sonoma Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 4wd Transfer Case Control Module

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Can i just hook the brake line to bypass the ABS system

Just put knew brake pads an knew rear calipers on it an they still don't work I also put a knew brake booster an master cylinder an did all proper bleeding so can anyone help

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Try bleeding the abs lines on the abs booster under the hood it has an electric motor attached to it and is hooked directly from thebrake master cylinder it adds extra boost pressure to the brakes so you wont have to pump up the brakes when making a hard stop when traveling at a high rate of speed. try driving in an empty lot or road about 30 to 35mph then stepping on the brake real hard like if u were making an emergency stop you should hear the boost motor rev up and the wheels will stop an roll on and off several times until completly stopped then you will know its working but do not ever bypass that function unless the vehical is being built strictly for offroad uses only.

Posted on Nov 18, 2014


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Why does my brake light and the a b s light comes on when this vehicle has brand new calipers and pads on

Because the problem is not with pads and/or calipers. If the lights come on only when you brake, you may have a light bulb out. If they come on when you start the car and they stay on, you have a problem with your ABS system (anti-lock braking system). The systems self-check when you start the car, so the light should come on and then go out. If it comes on and stays on, the ABS system has failed. You need to have the vehicle serviced to repair the ABS system.

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Did you replace the lines when doing all the work, the lines are the cheapest part of it all

Jul 10, 2013 | 2006 Scion tC

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Replaced some brake line, rear pads and one rear wheel cylinder. Now no pressure and nothing happening when trying to bleed.

Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

Jul 07, 2013 | 1997 Mercury Tracer

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The rear disc brakes (both right and left) are equally tight causing a burning brake smell and heating up the discs. We replaced the rear pads and lubricated the slides to no avail. Is there some kind of...

do a test drive with the main ABS fuse out of the engine fuse box and drive the car to see if this is the problem. It is ok to take the ABS fuse out of engine because it does not affect you from not stopping. You need to read link:

May 27, 2011 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

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Just replaced rear pads now it feels like i have air in the line, the pedal goes about 3/4 of the way down. i used a tool to turn the caliper piston in until it seated then put the pads on. now the abs...

that is how you contract the caliper on the Audi/VW rear brakes. I would check the brake fluid, I would also recheck the back brake lines as it is/was a bear to replace the rear brake pads. Hope this helped Tim

Apr 17, 2011 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

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Have a 2000 gmc jimmy 4wd 4.3 liter v6. The truck had some problems with a nasty vibration in the rear for quite some time for the previous owner. Had the tire on and off several times checking every thing...

First, is the ABS light on? If yes by pass the fuse removal step, and lets not even go there it is out of the equation.
If the ABS light is OFF...before we replace more and more parts...that might still be in good condition and that might cost you money you don't have right now for the guessing game...pull the fuse to the ABS brakes, this will kill that system, once the ABS light displays on the dash, we have just eliminated it from the equation....what equation you ask....well what if the ABS was at fault and is the culprit...would't that lock up the wheel if it is sensing trouble, now it is disconnected try it if it works you can leave it alone or spend more money on the fix, when the ABS light is on on any car this means it no longer has that feature, which means the car will now be stopping with regular power brakes not ABS, I have a Mustang for years like this cause it just costs too much to fix it, and it is NOT part of any states inspection requirement.
OK so much for that, next check the axle bearings, raise rear off the ground both sides support on jack stands and turn the axles by hand..feel binding? How about up and down play on the axle hub? If you have bad axles or C.V. joints the rotor will shake and cause the ABS sensor to try to stop the wheel from turning, so any binding or excessive play have the bearing/c.v. joints replaced.
If all that is ok, now we go back to the brakes, check the condition of both rear neoprene rubber brake lines, if they are cracked and brittle(sorry looking) replace them, they have a tendency to collapse on the inside of the hose causing the fluid to lock up the calipers pistons, so check this .... it definately sounds like the brake hydraulic system is contaminated, and the flush was probably a right idea, however it did not complete the repair.
If I were you, I would pull the calipers from both rears and test them in a vise, put a 1/2 " piece of wood trim in between the brake pads(caliper bolted in vise, brake pads back in it, wood acts as the rotor for this test, get it?) If no wood the pistons will come out of there bore and the test is worthless...apply a low pressure regulation of compressed air to each caliper through the brake line port into the the pistons apply pressure on the wood? Do they retract when you release the pressure, or are they stuck"frozen"...If so this is your problem...sticking calipers, inspect the rotors for overheating signs of hair line cracks/blueish coloration if they are over heated replace as they may have lost there temper and may have become too brittle.
Always replace brakes as an axle set ...two rotors...two calipers....two disc/drum brake pads.
Below is a laundry list of ABS brake bleeding proceedures to follow only if you replace items other then downstream of the ABS modules...things like wheel cylinders(calipers) brake lines etc...all get the normal brake bleeding.
Here is thearticle I found in sequence for ABS systems:
Anytime the a brake system is opened to replace components such as calipers, wheel cylinders, the master cylinder, or brake lines or hoses, air gets inside. The air has to be removed by bleeding the brakes if you want a firm brake pedal. Air trapped in the lines, calipers or wheel cylinders will make the pedal feel soft and spongy. Air is compressible, so when the brakes are applied any air bubbles in the system must first be compressed before the hydraulic fluid will transmit pressure to apply the brakes.

As a rule, the brake circuits on most vehicles with anti-lock brakes can be bled in the usual manner, provided no air has gotten into the ABS modulator assembly. If the only components you replaced were downstream of the modulator (calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses or lines), chances are normal bleeding procedures will clear the lines of any unwanted air.

Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder. It does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.

Jun 26, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

How to replace rear brake pads on 2004 Jeep Cherokee 4x4

take it to a mechanic....;) I have a 2003 jeep grand cherokee 4 wheel drive V8. there probably is not much difference between year models. frist thing remove the back tire you will see the caliper and rotor. check the rotor if it has deep groves on the front or back you will need to bring it in to have it turned or replaced if it is still smooth it should be ok. remove the caliper by taking the two bolts off the back of the caliper. using a pice of wire hang the caliper so it isn't dangling from the brake line. Now is the time to replace rotor if needed .Get a pair of vice grips crimp off the brake line so any trash in the caliper doesn't get into the brake system (if you let the contaminants get into the brake system it can cause costly repairs to the abs system). open up the bleeder valve most of the time close to where the brake line goes into the caliper and usually has a rubber cap. open bleeder valve, take a c-clamp place on inner brake pad and outside of caliper tighten until caliper is all of the way open close bleeder valve. replace brake pads put caliper back on recommend using lock tight on bolts holding caliper on snug fasteners but do not over tighten, lock tight will keep bolts from backing out. do the other side the same way. pull up emergency brake to and pump brake pedal to adjust brakes. bleed brakes and you are done

Nov 14, 2009 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Honda accord 2006

I’m assuming you got either the factory original ceramic brake pads or at least a decent quality aftermarket ceramic brake pad, not some cheapo semi metallic brake pad, such as Duralast or Raybestos PG’s.

When you replaced them did you properly lube the metal to metal contact points on the calipers? Remember, the pads have to be free floating, otherwise they will not properly engage and disengage from the rotors.

Did possibly some of the caliper lube get on the friction part of the brake pads? Whoops, no friction then. It happens, solution is buy another set, sorry.
Did you bleed all four brakes? Even though the system was not “Opened”, guess what, it already was every time you touch your brakes. The extreme heating and cooling during normal brake operations, even more so on Antilock Braking Systems (ABS ), sucks in moisture through those rubber brake lines and various other connection points. That’s the first reason why you do a quick bleed of the system. The second is to balance out the four wheel braking abilities, if you don’t, as the front wheels start to slow faster then rear, the ABS system releases the front brakes to maintain control.

May 04, 2009 | 2006 Honda Accord

4 Answers

Replace rear brake pads on a 2000 grand marquis

rate as fixya if this is what you need. Thanks

  1. Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2K327).
  2. Remove the brake caliper bolts.
  3. Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B582).
  1. sya~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pads.
    Remove the brake pads by pushing inward and rotating the pad up.
  1. NOTE: Use a block of wood or used pad to protect the piston and boots.
    Retract the caliper piston (2196) into the rear disc brake caliper.

Mar 15, 2009 | 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

1998 s70 rear brake pad change.

  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and, if equipped with ABS, remove the key to prevent accidental pump activation.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the wheel(s).
  4. Disconnect any ABS wires, if equipped.
  5. Clean the brake caliper thoroughly and remove the dust caps from the bleeder nipple.
  6. Open the bleed nipple and lock the brake pedal the depressed position. Collect the brake fluid spillage in a suitable container.
  7. Remove the brake pads and disconnect the brake pipes from the caliper.
  8. Remove caliper mounting bolts and lift the caliper off.
  9. Drain the remaining brake fluid in the caliper into suitable container.
To install:
  1. Clean the caliper mount where the caliper lies.
  2. Install the caliper and new mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  3. Connect the brake line to the caliper and tighten to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  4. Grease the brake pad shims with a thin layer of silicon grease. Put the shims on the back of the pads and install them in the caliper.
  5. Install one retaining pin, spring then the other retaining pin.
  6. Fill the brake master cylinder and bleed the brake system.
  7. Connect any ABS wires, unfastened earlier.
  8. Install the wheels.
  9. Lower the vehicle and check the brake function before driving.5a93b4b.jpgb252921.jpgab8f49d.jpg2e6388c.jpg791e0f3.jpg9685511.jpg

Good luck...

Oct 22, 2008 | 1997 Volvo 850

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