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GE side by side fridge model GSR23VSTA-SS freezer temp -25F fridge temp 40F freezer set at -3F fridge set at 40F

Would it be a thermister

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ









Posted on Apr 17, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

icansurf
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer set at 0 degrees, but runs at 19 degrees. Ice Cream melting...

Low on freon/refrigerant maybe.

Posted on Mar 03, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ge side by side - high low humming noise from freezer section

I have a hotpoint HSS25GFPJWW fridg. The coil that opens the flapper door for the ice was bad so i replaced it . Now when i push the leaver in to get ice the fridge shut's down like ther is a large power drain. This was doing this before i replaced the coil but the flapper door was not opening then now it opens. It evens shut's the compressor off.

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: GE PSC23SGRC SS refrigerator (Arctica) Profile

Main board is out. Replace. Located on rear of unit

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

SOURCE: GE Side by Side Fridge Problem

could be defrost problem. check frost pattern on evaporator.

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: GE Fridge: PSS26SGPA SS Model

CallMe-

Your "freezer" and "refridgerator" temps are not jumping back to 14 and 44 respectively. When you change temps, they both wait 3-5 seconds before they revert back to a temp reading, not a temp setting.

Does your "freezer" make any loud or thumping noises? If not, do you hear a quiet whisper when both compartment doors are closed?

Solutions could be :
1. Servicing the coolant (might have a small leak)
2. Checking the seal on your freezer compartment (black rubber that meets the metal frame)
3. Your internal cooling fan is not operating and needs replacing (but I think your temps would be significantly higher).

Best of luck.

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

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1 Answer

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A thermister reads temperature by resistance (ohms). Higher the temperature gets the lower the resistance. It is two wires just pull them out and replace. It does not matter if you interchange them. Your unit reads the thermister to determine temperature.

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Dryer thermister is open. Thermister Open. Thermisters will change in resistance with temperature changes. The control relies on reading from this thermister so it can make a determination of whether or not to turn the heat on. If it is open then the control don't know what the air temp is inside the dryer and therefore it shuts down and declares an error. The thermister is mounted on the blower where it gets the air coming out of the drum on the way out the back. The fuse is right next to it. I bet you would like a service manual wouldn't you? SAMSUNG DRYER MANUAL
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I have a whirlpool cabrio dryer model WED6600VWD. What does the F1 error code mean?


Hello,

The F1 error code means that the thermister (cycling thermostat) has a open circuit and should be replaced.

To check the thermister you would need to DISCONNECT POWER TO THE DRYER remove the lower small front panel below the main one where the door is at and using a digital meter set to measure ya would remove the wires from the thermister and check for appx. 5,000- 7,500 ohms at room temperature.

If the ohms at within 5 thousand to 7thousand 5 hundred at room temp. the thermister is good and the control board is what the problem is....if the ohms is way lower or higher that 5-7,500 ohms the thermister is going to be what would need to be replaced.

Here is what the thermister looks like


oldtech2332_151.jpg

I hope i have been able to help you fix your dryer,
GENE

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These latest models rely on a cheap part called a thermister. Older ones used a mercury based cold control. A pc board sends a small amount of power through the thermister to judge the temp. As the temp changes the resistance inside the thermister changes. These el cheapo mexican thermisters are a dime a dozen. They have a quick connect. The thermister must be suspended near the coils but not directly on them or temps will not be judged correctly. Since a thermister is less than $10 bucks i would replace that first before calling someone.

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Thats a Norcold compact fridge. The most likley problem would be the thermister. Need to do an ohms reading. From inside of the fridge remone the thermister from the fins and unplug the wires. With a VOM set it on Ohms, touch the wires with the probes/ does not matter which probe to wire/ hold the bulb end of the thermister between your fingers, your reading should stat at about 7000 Ohms. Stick the bulb end of the thermister in a glass of ice water, reading should start climbing and go to about 22000 Ohms. If this happens the thermister is good and you need to look elsewhere. If it does not test out you need to replace the thermister. The thermister is a thermostat that controls the heat source that makes the fridge cool. If the thermister reads good you may want to get the circuit board tested.
Hope this helps
Thank you for using Fixya
Jerry

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