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While sawing the embroidery holder moves as well, looks like its not falling into its place correctly after embroidery, how can I fix it? Also I've self checked the machine but cant get the zi

While sawing the embroidery holder moves as well, looks like its not falling into its place correctly after embroidery, how can I fix it? Also I've self checked the machine but cant get the zigzag stitches to work, the straight working well but not the others - help pls While sawing the embroidery holder moves as well, looks like its not falling into its place correctly after embroidery, how can I fix it? Also I've self checked the machine but cant get the zigzag stitches to work, the straight working well but not the others - help pls We found similar questions that might be helpful.Didn't answer your question? Post My Question

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  • Janome Master
  • 626 Answers

YOUR MACHINE USES A PULSE MOTOR (SMALL MOTOR) THAT CAUSES THE NEEDLE ARM TO MOVE. IF THE MOTOR IS A PROBLEM THEN YOUR ZIGZAG STITCH AMONG OTHER STITCHES WON'T WORK. YOUR HOOP I'M NOT SURE BUT IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR HOLDER ISN'T LOCKING WHEN YOU PUSH THE HOOPS ON. LOOK INSIDE THE HOLE WHERE YOU PUSH THE HOOP AND TOUCH ON EACH SIDE AND PLACE PRESSURE TO SEE IF THEY BOUNCE BACK. ANYWAY, YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED TO GO TO YOUR LOCAL REPAIR SHOP ON BOTH OF THESE PROBLEMS.

Posted on Nov 17, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Trifect7
  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: How do I change the stiches?

You can do all of these stitches by using different combinations of your stitch selector, stitch width and stitch feed knobs, for instance, on the panel I can see on your machine:

http://www.jo-ann.com/joann/product/images/52659.jsp?CATID=cat3122&PRODID=prd11333

Stitches 1, 2 & 3 are straight stitches, centered, left and right. Really basic stuff, not different stitches at all. 4,5,6,7 & 8 are zig-zag stitches of different widths. 9 is the widest zig-zag (no. 8) on a finer stitch length, etc...

I think you should try and get an instruction manual for your machine. After a lengthy search of my usual manual sources, I've determined that that this may not be so easy. I think you should contact White on their 800 number and let them try and help you... 1-800-331-3164.

If you found this helpful, please vote generously as I receive nothing other than acknowledgement for my time.

Posted on Mar 08, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 14 stitch machine

Adjust the width selector to zero

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

  • 1027 Answers

SOURCE: How do I change the stiches?

The brother website has a users manual for it that can be downloaded. Use this link to get it:

http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/bsc/public/us/us/en/doc/manual_index.html?reg=us&c=us&lang=en&prod=hf_ls2125eus&type2=5&flang=English&dlid=

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My bottom thread is loose when sewing a straight stitch

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.




Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !


Posted on Jul 24, 2008

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: PFAFF 362 Sewing Machine: The shift

Remove the top cover (grasp and lift straight up), spray with "Tri-Flow, liberally inside. Pay attention to the right 1/2 and behind the front dials.

In Front, each dial has a small square opening on the side, use the tube included with the "Tri-flow" to squirt lube inside them. DO NOT use WD-40.

Run the machine daily for 5-10 minutes (set the dial "C" [top front that goes up to 8] to 0 also set the dial on top of the case to 0. Move the Zig-Zag lever (upper right) from 0 to 4 and back again. Respray with Tri-flow. After a couple of days, if it is still stuck place a hair-dryer or light nearby to warm it up to skin temp.

Between the temp and the oil, it should begin working.

Break a Leg!

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

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Hi, I hope this helps. If it doesn't post again.
"Check:
Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot
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Please check that the sewing foot is properly
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Embroidery foot Part No.: 98-694-840-00 will not work with top feed.

Also, except for eyelets, the darning foot can be used for embroidery.

I'm not sure what you're trying to do :) darn or embroider :); I'm not sure what mode you're working in either; embroidery mode?

Darning with straight stitch
Program 00
Fit darning foot No. 6.
Set the needle at its highest position by turning
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• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
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• Now guide the fabric back and forth evenly;
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When you have reached the width of the dam
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This guarantees a durable darn.
TIP: The faster you sew, the easier and more even
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Whether working with terry-cloth or woven fabric,
with the help of the darning foot and the pro
gram 02 you can embroider initials of your own
design

Drop the feed dog and insert the darning foot.
Put the machine into the darning position.

Spread the fabric in an embroidery hoop and
embroider in accordance with program 02.

Lower feed dog
If the feed dog is not lowered for embroidering, the
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1 Answer

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This can happen, click back to tools option check whether hoops selection is correct. If this is not the problem, off your machine then put on again. If message remain pull out the embroidery carriage & push in again. Hope it can work.
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I think that you need to have an authorized Husqvarna Viking repair center look at your machine.

The only thing that I can think of that you can do is place your left hand on the embroidery arm that moves left and right. Put your thumb into the opening where the hoop holder comes out and lift the cover slightly. I have seen the cover get pushed down too far so that the sensor inside is not able to move when the hoop is removed so the machine thinks it is still there. Look at the end of this opening in the arm that is closest to your stomach to see if it looks as if the cover is pushed down too far.

Beyond that, several things could be causing this problem, only one or two being serious. Most are simple.

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1 Answer

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If you haven't already done so, download the latest update for the Designer 1 and install it. 2.22 is the latest. Your current software version is in the lower right corner of the display when the machine is first turned on. It only shows for a short time so be ready when you turn it on.
If you have one of the last few versions, the embroidery unit will calibrate by moving the arm to the right and the hoop holder moves away from you, then back part way to the left and the holder will move back toward you and you will then hear a "grunting" sound as the holder moves slightly forward and back to finish verifying its position. If the arm fails to move from side to side or the holder doesn't move forward and back, the embroidery unit may not be fully connected to the machine so turn the machine off, slide the unit 2-3 inches to the left and firmly reconnect it and try again.
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