Question about Washing Machines
I've looked at and swapped a number of parts. This started after the wife washed a outdoor rug without beating it and everything got plugged up with sand, started a few months later. To try and get it going, swapped out a used motor and timer, a capacitor, lid switch and belt. Disassembled the pump and cleaned it out. I'm out of ideas, any help is appreciated.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE washing machine, wont spin
Same problem (but without any smell). You should try to reset the two computer boards in the washer. You do this by 1) unplugging machine and wait for 30 secs; 2) plug in machine; and 3) open and fully close the lid at least 5 times. This resets computer boards, which can get messed up by power surges, etc.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
Hi, It sounds like your spin basket drive is going bad. Even tho you cleaned the brake, the pads get worn down enough they will not grab. The only other thing I can think of is the bloch that sits on top the basket drive shaft and lockes the inner tub. Sounds like you have done/checked everything else.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
If the timer and lid switches are funtional and the machine is filling and shutting off correctly that only leaves the motor. Have the motor tested or replace it. Even though the timer is running it is possible that it is still at fault. If you have access to another timer try switching them to make sure it isn't the timer. This does sound like a faulty motor and I would start with that assumption.
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
it sounds like you know how to remove the frount panal,remove the frount panal.put unit in spin,look to see if belt is turning,if it is not than you have a bad cluch.
Posted on Dec 29, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".
See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
When ours had the same problem (wouldn't start spinning unless the lid was raised and lowered again) we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again. (Third time was the charm.)
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil (non detergent gear oil from a local auto parts dealer), remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on May 02, 2010
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Sounds like the spin coil/brake solenoid is burnt out or broken. This is a coil situated on the motor plate under the machine with a lever attatched to it. When the machine goes into spin cycle, this solenoid pulls the brake away from the outer drum to allow the drum and agitator to spin together. The shaft that goes into this coil should move in and out freely. If tight, replace spin coil/brake solenoid.
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