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Whirpool duet sport electric dryer, works fine however when its on any heat setting other than extra low it starts to make a grinding noise. It only happens when its hot. Any ideas what it might be?

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  • Master
  • 2,485 Answers

Check if there is a bearing gone behind the back cover.

Posted on Nov 16, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer is scorching clothes

there is a sensor in the exhaust line in the dryer, near the motor. this tells the heating element to shut off when it gets to a certain temp, either during reg cycle or if the exhaust gets clogged, it is meant as a safety measure, but it sounds like yours is bad so the heating element never shuts off. it is not an expensive part and easy to replace

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

lenwest
  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric dryer - drum turns; no heat

Turn off the breaker and check the heating element.
for more help go to live chat.
hope this helps
len west

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

lhendrix04
  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer won't start

DOOR SWITCH

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer ( gew9200lw1): no heat

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet GEW9250PW1 electric dryer squeals

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks, so now how do I get the extended warranty plan to pay for it. They will not send someone out for squeaks and squeals. "

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