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What could be the problem with my comfort glow the igniter button down to catch but it doesn't you can see a very small blue flame inside the stove could the thermocouple be bad or would it be

what could be the problem with my comfort glow the igniter button down to catch but it doesn't you can see a very small blue flame inside the stove could the thermocouple be bad or would it be something else

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The thermocouple is essentially a milli-volt generating device.
The way it works is this: The junction of two dissimilar metals (the tip) when heated generate a very small milli- voltage. It screws into the gas control whose safety circuit has a coil that needs that millivolt signal to remain open. If that coil does not remain open, the main gas will not open. If the thermocouple is bad, it will not generate the voltage required to hold the safety coil in when you release the button. Consequently, no main gas.

Replace the thermocouple and while its out, clean the pilot orifice at the same time to ensure full pilot gas flow passes to heat the thermocouple end. 3/4" to 1" of the tip should glow red for 30 to 45 seconds BEFORE the button is slowly released.

Now that this has been explained, are you sure the particular heater you are asking about even has a thermocouple?? If not, we need more information....

Posted on Nov 25, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Lars Lite 2 pool heater will not ignite

The easiest way to troubleshoot any heater, is to call the manufacturer. Their techs will walk you through each possible problem and solution until you find the answer.

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

SOURCE: mr heater will not stay lit after flame is

probably a clogged orifice. clean burner assembly. that should solve your problem. good luck.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

SOURCE: Where is the model # located on my Comfort Glow propane heater?

Usually it is a metal plate stamped to the unit.
Most common places to find it is usually located where the gas
valve and burner is located, it could be hooked to a chain.

Sometimes it is located on the side.
-Good Luck

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

SOURCE: thermocoupler wont stay ignited

do ya have strong flame on pilot if not blow out with air can if that dont work need new gas vavle

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: COMFORT GLOW PROPANE HEATER, THE PILOT LIGHT WILL NOT IGNITE

i vacuumed the line out, i taped the angle adapterso there was only a little bit showing and stuck it on the pilot hole for 3 minutes (I turned the gas off) and it fixed it

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

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Flame on dryer goes on off


see this causes and use the common sense.God bless you
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Igniter Gas valve coils Thermal fuse Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too. To determine if the igniter is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one. Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
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JGSP48SHSS oven


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I have a magic chef ovan/mic unit, when I press the bake option and set the temp the igniter goes on but the gas does not kick in. model # 54FN-5TKVWM


even though the ignitor glows it doesn't mean it's good it opens the gas valve by amps not just because it glows,if you turn on the stove and when you see it glow if the flame doesn't ignite within 40 to 50 seconds you have a bad ignitor.if you leave it alone for a few minutes does the flame ignite?the only other thing it could be is a bad gas valve but most likely it will be the ignitor

Sep 25, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

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I have an Amana gas dryer that doesn't ignite.


Hello,
The most common failure when the igniter glows yet DOES NOT GO OFF followed by the flame is a defective flame sersor
this is what the flame sensor looks likeoldtech2332_46.jpgIt is attached to the outside of the burner tube,
Their are basically 2 types of those,1 that attaches to right side of burner cone and 1 that attaches to left..to order correct one what ya need is the model number which is typically on a label on the inside of the door on the rim of the drum opening

Just to be sure before replacing it,is that what your experiencing..that the igniter glows yet does not go off? if yes that pretty much sums up what your experiencing go ahead replace that flame switch.

If igniter do go off but no flame the problem will be with the gas valve coils

GENE

Aug 23, 2011 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

When i set my oven to turn on, it doesn't heat up. Sometimes I get an oder of gas.


Good evening
First ,a couple of questions.Is this an electronic ignition? Most likely yes,as this problem seems to happen with E ignitions. Open broiler door,turn on oven and look inside .You should observe an orange glow appear .(Small blue flame indicates standing pilot) If yes then wait for ignition.No or partial ignition or some gas release means you need a new igniter.Very common. They do get weak. Inexpensive fix.Couple of bolts and plug.
PLEASE TURN OFF POWER TO MACHINE BEFORE SERVICE 120 volts down there.


good luck

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Aug 18, 2011 | KitchenAid Ovens

1 Answer

The igniter glow bar gets bright and hot on the first burn in the drying cycle, however on subsequent urns it doesn't glow bright or long enough to ignite. What's up?


The ignitor is either going to be good or bad. If it fires off it is fine and if it is shutting down then the flame sensor is also working. That tells me your coils are weak and old.
themobilian_2628.jpgthemobilian_2629.jpgthemobilian_2630.jpgthemobilian_2631.jpg

Here is how it works and why I believe you need to get new coils: When the dryer is cool first thing in the morning the initial start up the fuse and control besidethemobilian_2632.jpg
it allow power to the gas assembly, the flame detector/sensor allows power to get to the ignitor and it begins to glow. 1800 degrees is what that baby puts out and at that point the flame sensor bi-metal bends and shuts down the ignitor. The holding coil and secondary coil will then have enough power partially because the ignitor is off and partially because the ignitor is now acting as a thermocouple. If for some reason the gas did not ignite then the ignitor would cool down and shut off the gas. themobilian_2633.jpg
When the temp inside the drum gets to 160f that control beside the fuse shuts off the gas assembly, IF it don't shut down the gas then that fuse melts and shuts down the power to the gas assembly but it doe not shut down the dryer. The fuse is good though because you are getting power to the gas assembly AND the gas assembly is shutting down at 160f. The dryer keeps a tumbling around till the temp in the drum drops to 105f at that time the dryer wants another blast of hot air, trouble is the coils have gotten hot now, the ignitor is doing its thang, the flame sensor is doing its thang, the control is doing its thang. The only thing that ain't happening now is the coils ain't allowing gas to come out. Replace the coils and party on! More here
themobilian_2634.jpg

Jul 18, 2011 | Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

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