Question about Heating & Cooling
I think I added enough in my question
It would be nice to know if this is a condensing furnace or not. With the lack of information, I cannot suggest that there could be a problem originating from a plugged condensate drain or a blocked combustion air inlet pipe on a two pipe furnace or a blocked flu pipe.
If it has only one pvc pipe, that will be the flue and it could be partially blocked with mud daubers or another critter. A blockage in either will effect the flu's positive pressure and possibly open the pancake style pressure switch causing no gas but the indoor blower will still run because it is energized off of a circuit board and not a thermal sensing switch.
Of course, you could have 80% furnace with galvanized flu connection to a masonry (or metalbestos) chimney and it won't have all the sophistication in the control circuit that the 90 percenters have. 80 percenters also have an inducer motor, but they don't have the condensing coils of the more efficient.
This probably wasn't a lot of help, but maybe the door still has the troubleshooting chart on it that tells you what the blinks mean. That should put you more in the right direction than a stab in the dark. Seldom is too much information provided within a question.
Posted on Nov 29, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a goodman GMP075-3 that won't turn on. I think it is the pressure switch since I do not have a vent blockage. What is a venter and where can I find it??
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
The board is bad. The unit thinks a flame is present, so it tells the blower to come on. Replace the board.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Need your model # to check the codes but, this coming back on after turning the t-stat off is rare. You may have been in a lockout and the furnace re-started. Some furnaces try to start three times , then lock out. Time out, then re-start. The codes should be on your furnace blower door. Write back with this info and i could help.
Posted on Oct 13, 2011
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