Re: Can I tape between a popcorn ceiling and a smooth...
By beading, are you referring to drywall tape? If this is cracked and you want to repair the tape, I suggest you use a nice cove mold to cover up the lose tape. Otherwise you'll need to remove the old tape, smooth out the popcorn ceiling area, re-tape the corning then feather it in, then texture the ceiling again. The trip is much easier to do. It's cleaner, quicker and really would look nice.
Will it stick? yes but unless you want to keep the same look, I opt for the cove mold.
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Most likely the problem is a leaking drain pipe in the wall, perhaps because of a failed joint. The reason it's not going down the wall to the floor of the dining room is because there is a top plate on the wall. Most likely the water is running down the bathroom wall, then out over the dining room drywall ceiling. It is finding the lowest spot in the area to accumulate and is soaking into the drywall. Since it is drain water, it is dirty and is picking up additional contaminates from the wall and causing the brown stain. It may or may not be soft, depending on how much water accumulates at one time, but it is slowly breaking down the ceiling where the stain is.
That said, are you sure it's a leak, or are you assuming that since you see the stain on the ceiling. I say this because mice, like many other rodents, usually pick one location to use as their bathroom. If you have mice in the ceiling and this is where they do their thing, you will get the same type of indication.
It sounds like the drain line is plugged where it goes outdoors, so water is backing up inside the unit until it spills over indoors. Clear the drain line.
You may need to cut a section out of the drywall where it's been damaged, then get a matching piece of new drywall to replace it. If you can cut down the centers of two studs, all the better - then you can screw the new patch directly to the studs on both sides. If not... at least leave yourself a couple of inches of drywall to stitch to - you can do that by screwing small pieces of plywood to the existing drywall, overlapping the hole. Then you can screw the new drywall patch to the plywood.
Next is your adventure in taping & mudding & sanding the drywall to finish the patch. Last, paint it to match the rest of the wall... or repaint all of that wall, including the patch. No need to paint adjacent walls, if your color matching is pretty close.
You will need to figure out if moisture is from some type of plumbing leak or a leak from the exterior of the house.(roof, window, etc.). You need to fix the moisture problem first. It could lead to mold issues that could make you sick. Not to mention it will only ruin the new patch work. If the damage is only a couple of small spots in each room. You can then cut the damaged areas out and put new drywall patches in. Home Depot sells drywall in 2ftx2ft sections. Measure the damaged section. Example. damage is 2inx2in.Cut the new drywall 3inx3in. Take the 3x3 patch trace around it on top of damaged area. Take a razor knife cut around line and break out the damage area. You may have to screw wood around the inside hole. To be able to screw new patch in place. Then take mesh drywall tape around seams and then mud. Any hardware person should be able to help. If you are not comfortable doing this please call a handyman service or local contractor. Hope this helps .
Although this is the popcorn popper section, you can apply joint compound over the textured section, and smooth it out with a trowel,then sand it down. It is a lot of work and I have found this particular do-it-yourself project is best left to professionals. contact a drywall specialist, they can do in 2 days what will take weeks doing it yourself.
The TapeBuddy drywall taping tool is the answer to your taping problem. A one step drywall tape and joint
compound application tool that makes taping easy. It's lightweight, easy to assemble and applies an even amount of joint compound
directly to the joint tape. It even applies more compound to the tape center
where more compound is needed. Just load with paper or Fibafuse tape and
joint compound, pull out the coated tape, cut, apply to the seam and embed. There
is no need to pre-mud drywall joints or carry around heavy tools. Taping walls,
corners and ceilings is fast with no mess. TapeBuddy is a great DIY tool that will give you professional results. It is easy-to-use and the perfect tool for any
drywall taping project. The tool comes with easy-to-understand How To information on taping drywall. There is a how to manual on their website.
Excessive room echo is caused primarily by two things - hard surfaces and high ceilings. The worst materials are glass, marble and concrete block. Next to this is drywall. The more hard surfaces you have, the worse the echo will be. For example an entirely drywall room is much worse than one with drywall walls and an acoustic tile ceiling. The sound simply bounces from the back wall, to the front, to the ceiling, to the floor, back to the walls, floor, ceiling and so on. The solution of course is to reduce the amount of hard surface area.You need to coat the wall with some sort of acoustical wall treatment. Carpet on the walls will work or you can purchase materials for that purpose. How much to install and how much area to cover will require experimentation. There are many choices and this is just one. http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/ An online search will provide many options. Search will the term "Acoustical Wall Treatment"