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GE MODLE GSR23VSTA-SS FREEZER SET AT -3F GOES TO -50F FRIDGE AT 40F

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Ge side by side - high low humming noise from freezer section

I have a hotpoint HSS25GFPJWW fridg. The coil that opens the flapper door for the ice was bad so i replaced it . Now when i push the leaver in to get ice the fridge shut's down like ther is a large power drain. This was doing this before i replaced the coil but the flapper door was not opening then now it opens. It evens shut's the compressor off.

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

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SOURCE: GE PSC23SGRC SS refrigerator (Arctica) Profile

Main board is out. Replace. Located on rear of unit

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: GE Fridge: PSS26SGPA SS Model

CallMe-

Your "freezer" and "refridgerator" temps are not jumping back to 14 and 44 respectively. When you change temps, they both wait 3-5 seconds before they revert back to a temp reading, not a temp setting.

Does your "freezer" make any loud or thumping noises? If not, do you hear a quiet whisper when both compartment doors are closed?

Solutions could be :
1. Servicing the coolant (might have a small leak)
2. Checking the seal on your freezer compartment (black rubber that meets the metal frame)
3. Your internal cooling fan is not operating and needs replacing (but I think your temps would be significantly higher).

Best of luck.

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

stradeteox
  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: freezer working fine but fridge isn't

Either the damper that the air flows up through is closed or the return air flow vents are blocked with clear ice.

Do you feel the air come out all the way at the top of the duct assembly when the freezer door is opened (but it then stops when the door is closed)?

If so, then it sounds like your return air flow vents are clogged. These are located to the left and right of the duct assembly in the rear/bottom of the refrigerator section. Sometimes you may have to slowly pour hot water into these vents to get the clear ice to thaw. The water should go down into the freezer section behind the evaporator and then out the drain in the back.

If you do not get the air to flow out the top of the duct assembly then the damper is staying shut. This could be either a bad damper in the duct assembly or the main board my not be sending voltage to the damper. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE side by side. Freezer cold, fridge kinda cool

i had a similar problem, i found that the small mast on the motor turning the fan was just spinning and the fan was spinning just a little bit because it sits on there. I took the plastic fan off and put tape around the mast of the fan motor and placed the fan back on so it sat on there tightly. The fan blew cold air again because it was able to **** up the cold from the coils again, compared to when it was very loose.

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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Not sure if the compressor is running. If not, you'll need a repair man. Since fans are running, most likely the thermistor. Also, if you haven't unplug from the wall, wait 10 seconds then plug back in; this may reset the control board. The link below may help. GE Refrigerator Not Cold Enough

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GE side by side fridge model GSR23VSTA-SS freezer temp -25F fridge temp 40F freezer set at -3F fridge set at 40F


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ









Nov 17, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hola: my GE PSC25PSTBSS sometimes is not cooling in the fridge side. some days it is at ~50F and other days at 37F. one year ago it was not cooling anything and GE technician replaced the fan unit from the...


edtorres: if the freezer side and ice maker are working fine then the problem may be the damper that allows cooling into the refrigerator side is having trouble opening or the controls to the damper are defective.

Mar 06, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

GE side by side. Freezer cold, fridge kinda cool


Generaly the control board controls everything sometimes you have a bad thermister GE has a help line I beleive it costs 20.00 bucks but you will need a meter and know how to use it and they willl talk you thru the repair .

May 30, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

GE PSC23SGRC SS refrigerator (Arctica) Profile


Main board is out. Replace. Located on rear of unit

Jul 05, 2008 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Ge profile side by side fridge


THIS IS CAUSED MORE COMMONLY BY A FAILURE TO THE MAIN PROCESSING BOARD NOT SENDING PWR TO THE DISPENSER RELY BOARD

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Ge side by side - high low humming noise from freezer section


Sounds like its the evap fan motor to me. Not very easy to axcess. I have had one GE make the same noises you are describing to me. Let me know if you are going to attempt it and need more assistance

Nov 19, 2007 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

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