Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a goodman GMP075-3 that won't turn on. I think it is the pressure switch since I do not have a vent blockage. What is a venter and where can I find it??
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
Today’s furnaces are controlled by a computer which constantly monitors for problems. When it detects a problem it will shut off the burners. Depending on the problem and the specific furnace it will either “lock out” the furnace or cycle it through a purge (to rid it of un-burned gas and excess heat) and then attempt to re-start it. If the problem continues to occur then it will “lock out”. Depending on the problem and the furnace it may again attempt a re-start after several hours. In any case if the problem was not detected/caused by a sensor which requires a manual re-set, when the power to the computer is interrupted or the call for heat is interrupted the computer is reset and it will again attempt to re-start the furnace. The most common problems are:
· Low or lack of flame sense. Different furnaces use different methods to detect a flame – often these “flame sensors” become dirty and have to be cleaned (usually with sandpaper or steel wool).
· Bad igniter. (Doesn’t light at all).
· Clogged combustion air intake or exhaust.
· Clogged condensate drain. (90+% efficient furnaces).
This is not a complete list, only the most common!
Depending on where you live your HVAC system runs more than anything else you own (including your car). All furnace manufacturers “recommend” “regular maintenance” of your furnace. In fact, all that I am aware of state in their warranty that the warranty may be voided due to lack of “regular maintenance.” The industry has defined “regular maintenance” as yearly (in fact, some manufacturer’s warranties state yearly). Due to safety, liability, and the need for many other things to be checked, cleaned, and/or adjusted (2-page checklist where I work) to ensure safety and efficiency. Due to the large number of furnaces and the differences between them. Moreover, due to the terms of this site, I WILL NOT AND CAN NOT give you specific instructions on how to perform repairs on your furnace. I suggest that you contact a local, reputable, HVAC service company for (a tune up, preventive maintenance, general maintenance, yearly service call, general service, or whatever they call it).
While I may not have told you how to fix your furnace yourself, I have told you how to fix it. Please rate my answer.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
An indoor blower running when it is not supposed to usually indicates an overheat condition. I would guess that it has been cycling on and off for some time and finally caused the high limit to stick and not auto reset. if you tap it sometimes they reset. the real problem is that it has been overheating from lack of airflow, over sized unit, not enough return air, too many closed registers, dirty filter, dirty squirrel cage blower and or air conditioner a-coil. If you get it started again sit and watch the unit run the flames should come on and stay on for the entire heating cycle, not going on and off.
I wish I could help you more but it is difficult without seeing the problem myself. Good luck! this should get you started!
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
99% of the time its either the induced draft pressure switch not closing, or staying closed, wavering, etc. due to condensate accumulating in the tube that senses the air pressure in the indiced draft housing that leads to the pressure switch that upon being closed poroves the induced draft motors running allowing a purge and a trial period for ignition, either spark type or hot surface ignitor type
if the hot surface ignitors not glowing or pilot assmbly isnt sparking, check the hi limits and safetys, by pass them and / or jumper the terminals on the circuit board simulating a good limit circuit.
the tube on the induced draft housing attaches to a orifice or nipple, that can and often do get carbon in them which is very tough to poke through, I use a papaer clip undone or small screwdivers shaft, it may feel as if you hit a solid wall but unless you hear the blades metallic clang or noise its carbon and needs to be pushed through and clear the orifice out, this needs to be done annually, the pilot asebly , pressure switch on induced draft and orifice are the big troublemakers i dont know your particular codes is the air filter clean?
Posted on Dec 27, 2010
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