Question about Whirlpool Dishwashers
Other Part Numbers on door, are ADG 8410FD.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1E= Inlet Error
Not reached to the normal
water level in spite
of 10 min. water supply
The Water Supply Tap is closed.
The Water Supply is shut off.
The Inlet Hose is kinked.
The Water Pressure is very low.
(below 10 psi)
Inlet Valve is OK?
The filter of Inlet Valve is clogged
by impure water.
The Hall sensor is OK?
The Impeller of Air Guide is bound
Take action on Water Supply
Measure the electric resistance of
Inlet Valve. (950-1300 )
Clean the filter of Inlet Valve.
Check the frequency of Inlet Water
by the Test Mode.
Replace the Air Braker
Posted on Aug 20, 2008
Well done by resolving this problem. The other way to avoid the siphoning problem through the drain hose is adding an air gap valve/connector (available at any hardware store). You can use it even if you don't have a garbage disposal in your kitchen sink. That will assure that you have the proper height of the drain hose.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
I can't locate your model number, it may only be a partial number and/or missing a couple of digits or letters. Fortunately with most "Whirlpool" built dishwashers...
This is actually a built in "fault code" of your dishwasher. It could mean you have a faulty control, but not very likely. Here's a couple of things it commonly means.
1) the heater has failed/opened, so the control sensed too long of a heat cycle.
2) a wire from the element has come off, (it happens just from normal use and vibration at times) so the control senses the same fault as a "open" / defective element.
3) your wash motor&pump assembly has become seized or jammed to the point it cannot circulate the water to heat sufficiently, or heat in the acceptable time table.
Here's what you can do to check.
on the control you'll need to activate 2 buttons in sequence back and forth. The 2 buttons will be "heated dry" and "air dry". push those 2 buttons in this sequence, heated dry-air dry, heated dry-air dry.
This should activate a short "test" of the component's, i.e. water valve, detergent dispenser, wash motor, and finally drain. Try to make a note if the wash motor runs, or just "hums"/ "buzzes".
This test should also reset the control to eliminate the illuminated clean light. However, the light will continue to return until the cause is found and remedied...
...now to find the cause, **disconnect the power, shut off the breaker**
You can visually inspect the element in the tub. Does it have any "burn marks" or any holes ? No ? OK, undo the 2 screws at the bottom of the unit, commonly refered to as a "toe panel" or "kick plate", it is the access panel for servicing the unit. The panel should be easy to remove once the screws are out. (you may actually see a service sheet or tech sheet in a plastic envelope on the back of this panel. If you use it, do all us technicians a favour and put it back, lol). with the panel now out of your way, with the aid of a flashlight, look to the very back of the dishwasher. You're looking for any wires that may be disconnected, specifically a white colour wire with a purple/violet tracer on the left side of the element and a red wire on the right side connection. (don't get too hung up if the right side isn't red, it could be brown or even orange in some cases, red is just the most common by far).
If the connections are good and the wash motor & pump work, now with the aid of a multi-meter, ohm out the element.
It is possible it is defective without any visual evidence, but the meter won't lie. If you have continuity,(the needle/numbers moves) it's good. If not,(needle/numbers doesn't move) it's bad.
...the remedy, if you can rule out a loose/disconnected wire, should be obvious at this point. Either a burnt out element needs to be replaced or a bad wash motor & pump assembly has to be replaced.
hope that helps, let me know. good luck.
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
SOURCE: Whirlpool ADG 6556 flashing code
Refer user guide for the correct meaning!
Meanwhile Check all the dispensing compartments- salt - rinse-aid, free inlet water flow and the door close.
Posted on May 21, 2010
The machine has a switch inside that activates when a set amount of water is loaded.
If this switch then breaks (switches off) during the wash the machine assumes that the water has leaked out.
Run it through a couple of washes, check for a leak and see how it goes.
Hopefully it will be fine.
F2 indicates a flooded base.
Press and hold the start button until the start light goes out. (This resets the appliance)
Select a new programme and try the machine again.
If it comes up with a fault F2, take the panel off below the door and check for water in the base.
Be careful when you take the panel off, the exposed edges are razor sharp.
Drain any water in the base, reset and try the machine again and watch for a leak through the inspection panel.
Posted on May 24, 2010
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