Question about Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 Digital Camera

1 Answer

After assembly camera lcd displey is still off

Dear friends Lens of the camera was stuck inside of the camera. When I turned on, the lens did not go out. I have found service manual which realy help me disassebley/assembly the camera. I fixed blocked servo-motor of zoom so finaly lens is going like "new". BUT! Unfortunately lcd displey stood dark. No back-light, no icons, no signs. Before fixing of the zooming lcd was ok. Is not cracked, ribb.cabel seems to be ok. I tried at least 5x take of the two cabels off the lock and then put it back. But no picture on the lcd any more. Camera takes photo good. Even with flash. There is no problem. Any idea what is wrong with lcd? What have I done wrongly during assembling? Thank you for your help Petr P.S. - battery is charged fully

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  • petka08 Nov 21, 2014

    Right! Nobody replied to me. So I took magn.glass. Properly checked very thin wires led between LCD and locker. It was very hard to see it, but I found that. The Way was broken on the smaller rib.cabel. There are 2 wires. Broken was just one of them. I had to change myself to mode "brain surgeon" :) Stop shake of hands for necessary time. I scraped foil above of cuprum. Soldering..... ByPass I made from thin wire(cabel). I would post here a picture of my work, but here is no availability...

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1 Answer

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  • Expert
  • 221 Answers

Perhaps in disassembly pressure on the LCD cracked the crystal display with will cause a rich black screen. If the camera has both internal and LCD displays, perhaps the switch is set to the eyepiece? My lumix will shut off the LCD and turn on the eyepiece to save battery. Check wires to that switch.

Posted on Dec 24, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Bogdan
  • 198 Answers

SOURCE: zoom causes camera to shut down automatically

Unfortunately this is a well known problem with digital cameras. And in most cases this doesn't end up pretty well. Your camera contains a lot of servomotors and small lens and sensors. They work togheter in order to produce sharp pictures and expose the main CCD sensor to correct amount of light. When you start the camera, it's main circuit board, wich contains it's microcontroller (some kind of a camera processor) will run some tests to see if the lens assembly works correctly and if there isn't anything that can block the lens extension procedure. If this test fails you will be given a message telling you to turn the camera off and back on. Your camera obviously passed this test since you can take pictures. However the camera can't test the zoom function at the begining because this is done by using zoom motors and the ccd sensor at the same time. The sensor isn't turned on at the initial stage when the test it's made. When you try to zoom with your camera, in your case, the speed on wich the lens are moved back and forth doesn't correspond to the speed value stored in the camera's microcontroller and used for calibrating the ccd sensor. The camera will inevitabily give you this message as it thinks that this is a small problem with the lens and because of a shock received, the lens alligment got messed up. It thinks a reset will do the job, as when it retracts the lens back they will come again up with the correct settings. In your case the most probable thing that's rong inside your camera is a small servomotor that has the function to extend the distance between two lens in order to "zoom". The 2 lens are contained in separate mooving parts of the lens assembly, and those parts moove apart one from each other by sliding on some small channels. If this becomes altered or decalibrated, the movement of the motor woun't produce an acurate movement of the lens. These are very fragile components on any camera so they can get out of balance from all sort of reasons. Maybe a mechanical shock, maybe something inside got loose or change it's possition, there are many reasons. In order to fix this, the camera needs to be dissasembled and the lens unit should also be opened. You will need very delicate tools and it's recomandable to work in a dust free environment. If you aren't the electronic/mechanic type of person I strongly recomand that this operation should be performed in a camera service center. That's because if you damage or decalibrate something inside the lens assembly, the whole mechanism will need to be changed as it's imposible to repair in most cases. In your current situation, a repair can be done and shouldn't be that expensive. If you however for whatever reasons decide you want to try fix the camera yourself (I, again state that this involves pretty much risks) you may reply to this and I will try to guide you throught. I'm sorry, however, for I am the one who delivers the bad news about your camera. This is a hard to do repair, most specially in a DIY fashion. Good luck and please feel free to reply if you need more informations.

Posted on Jun 09, 2007

pauman
  • 248 Answers

SOURCE: pANASONIC dmcfz8

try to help the lens go out by pulling it very very lightly...

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Panasonic lumix dmc-lz7 lens cover won't open

Hey how you doin.
I had the same problem during a trip around Australia, some bull dust built up around the lens area. The only thing I did to rectify the problem was to blow it out with a tyre inflator at a road house when I stopped for petrol. No problem since then.
You may have some fine sand wedged in the cover area aswel.
Good luck 'R'

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: Lens is stuck out. Makes a clicking nose and has error message.

Sorry, it needs to go in for service.
Usually this type of fault happens due to sand/ grit in the mechanism or it has suffered a knock/ drop.
If it is grit/ sand then they may just clean the lens mechanism.
If it has suffered an impact, then it will probably need replacement. you may want to get your household insurance involved at that point.

Sorry for the bad news.
Cheers.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 11967 Answers

SOURCE: my Panasonic Lumix FS5 tells me to turn off camera

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens error”, or “lens error, restart camera”. Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.
The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many Canon's, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.
A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.
Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.
The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:
Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.
Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.
Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.
Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.
Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in “no heat” setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).
Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.
Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you for such a detailed reply. I have contacted the vendor and will follow your clear instructions if camera is not covered by warranty."

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