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Re: How do I remove the little pin at the base of the...
That is a roll pin and you need a punch the size just smaller that that little pin. Then you can just tap it out with the punch and a hammer. Remove the drive and replace and tap the pin back into place to hold the rubber drive.
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Either the coupling from the motor with the fingers on it is not really attached to the motor shaft or the drive on the blade that engages with it is not attached to the blade shaft. One other thing is that on some models if the rubber jar seal between the beaker and the blade carrier is in the wrong place it can raise the blade drive to not engaging properly with the motor coupling. The gasket goes between the jar and the blade carrier, not under the blade carrier.
Generally, a blade or grinding or blending/mixing part that is permanently attached to a metal shaft from the appliance motor is held on that shaft by a 'shear pin'. This pin breaks when something is put in the appliance that the grinder, mixer, blender can't gring, mix, or blend. This is to protect the motor from overload. Afterwards, The motor will continue to turn, but the blade or paddle, or whatever will not turn.
The shear pin needs to be replaced.
The shear pin passes through one side of the base of the bade/grinder/paddle assembly, through the motor shaft, and out the other side of the blade/grinder/paddle.
The piece of the pin must be removed from the shaft, and from the two sides of the blending/grinding part. This is generally a press-fit, and some effort may be required to accomplish this.
When the pieces have been removed, a common 'roll pin' of the appropriate diameter should be inserted to hol the turning part on the shaft. It must fit tightly, and some effort should be required to insert the new pin.
One of the parts is not being driven properly. Either the clutch on the top of the motor is not really attached to the motor shaft OR the clutch on the bottom of the blade is not engaging with the motor clutch OR the blade clutch is not properly attached to the blade shaft. On some models if you put the rubber sealing ring in the wrong place between the beaker and the blade housing it is enough to lift the clutches apart. The rubber wing goes between the beaker and the blade housing, not between the blade housing and the blade retaining ring.
I simply slid a small screwdriver in through one of the holes under the base to prevent the fan from spinning and unscrewed the pin counterclockwise using some small channel lock pliers. No disassembly necessary.
10-01-2009 Sara - see solution for rlaymon 1-9-08 "Top part of base broke off"by TanyaCS on 1-20-08 - good ideas. I just fixed mine - 2 hour job + half hour to put a new cord in. Like TanyaCS my broken coupling was rusted to shaft - used WD-40 twice and let sit - meanwhile took out motor and removed fan - kept screws and washers in order on workbench (kitchen counter) - the fan hole is "D" shaped - fan end of shaft also "D" shaped - I filed a "flat" on the other side of the factory "flat" (side of 'D' that is straight) - Used big pliers on broken coupling and adjustable wrench on on the "flats" on fan end of the shaft. Broken end came right off. New cord is 18 gauge extension cord capable of at least 6 amps. Cut off the un-needed end. Or order a replacement cord $4 when you order the rubber drive coupling $4, pin with slinger washer $3. Bet you also need new rubber feet - didn't buy for mine - wish I had. Bert
Repairing the blender: My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.
To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.
To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.
EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.
the top rubber piece could be worn enough that it is not engaging the pitcher. look at it carefully and see if the "teeth" of the rubber disc on top of the base has not cracked and worn away. a picture of the new one can be seen on the parts websites to compare I spent $10.00 for my replacement but i found them at other sites for $6.00. you will need a very skinny 7mm open ended wrench to get the old one off and it is left handed threads that means clockwise will loosen not tighten the part.i ground down my wrench but an ignition wrench from an auto store will usually be thin enough to reach the flats on the shaft under the rubber disc
This just happened to me too, and I think I just fixed it. First you have to get a replacement part called the "blender coupling" (I got mine online from Goodmans for $3.99). I also replaced the square drive and slinger (two parts come together for $2.99)-that's the little part that sticks up and attaches to the pitcher.
Unscrew the bottom four screws of the base where the rubber feet are. Remove the rubber skirt to reveal four screws that hold the motor in. They are way in there so you'll need a long screw driver. Remove the motor and unscrew the old coupling. Mine had not been replaced since my grandmother bought this blender who knows when, so the coupling was really stuck. I did not have a tool narrow enough to get a good grip to apply enough torque to remove the coupling so I had to try a few other tricks. If your blender is the same, remove the bottom nut, fan blade and two washers. This gave enough of a rod to grip to get the old coupling off. (I also had to use some WD40, and heat and cool the coupling a few times to break the old seal).
Good luck! Hope that helps!
You need the remove the old gray rubber knob. I did it in a barbaric way just hacking at it with scissors. Once you've removed all the rubber, you can use pliers to remove the remaining metal base. Once that's removed, place the new piece on the post and spin it on. Most important, spin clockwise to loosen, not counter clockwise like most items.